Forum Discussion
btggraphix
Mar 18, 2015Explorer
So I guess the Atlas springs will have to have a hole or holes in the new springs to match the bar. Interesting, thanks for the feedback.
As to the charge issue, there's a number of possibilities; it is really nice to have a multi-meter with the loop / clamp / magnet deal, because you can measure current moving through the hot or ground at your battery. You need to figure out a) if your battery is taking a charge and B) what sort of load/drain is going on. Converters can easily go bad and the older campers often have junk for them anyway. I'd take the battery out and charge it up via a charger on your bench. Make sure it is fully charged then let sit a day or whatever and monitor the voltage of it. It has to rest after charging to get a good number but by all means, measure it after the charge and make sure of what it does for 24 hours or so (or perhaps get it tested or use a known good battery fully charged. Then put it in the camper hook it up, check the voltage and then use the clamp multimeter to see if any current flow is going out. If lots of drain figure out what from. Remove all fuses, add them in one by one and see what sort of draw you have as you add each one. CO and propane monitors use a bit, keep turning them on slowly and see what the draw is like for each circuit. If there is a lot maybe a short....but it could be the converter isn't charging the battery right (over charging or under charging) it the battery could be bad or you have a major drain somewhere. While not plugged in to shore power the converter is less likely to be screwing things up, but if you have a current drain with no fuses in it might be the issue. It is important to separately test the DC part separately and without AC running to your camper. A buddy had his converter go bad and things worked fine on 12v but when plugged into AC his lights dimmed and DC voltage freaked out and dropped low. Those clamp multimeters are awesome. A nice and more permanent solution there is to get a trimeric (or other) ammeter + shunt to be able to always monitor current from the battery without using a multimeter.
This should give you a start. Not an electric wiz but can play one for basic troubleshooting. Others may chime in too.....
As to the charge issue, there's a number of possibilities; it is really nice to have a multi-meter with the loop / clamp / magnet deal, because you can measure current moving through the hot or ground at your battery. You need to figure out a) if your battery is taking a charge and B) what sort of load/drain is going on. Converters can easily go bad and the older campers often have junk for them anyway. I'd take the battery out and charge it up via a charger on your bench. Make sure it is fully charged then let sit a day or whatever and monitor the voltage of it. It has to rest after charging to get a good number but by all means, measure it after the charge and make sure of what it does for 24 hours or so (or perhaps get it tested or use a known good battery fully charged. Then put it in the camper hook it up, check the voltage and then use the clamp multimeter to see if any current flow is going out. If lots of drain figure out what from. Remove all fuses, add them in one by one and see what sort of draw you have as you add each one. CO and propane monitors use a bit, keep turning them on slowly and see what the draw is like for each circuit. If there is a lot maybe a short....but it could be the converter isn't charging the battery right (over charging or under charging) it the battery could be bad or you have a major drain somewhere. While not plugged in to shore power the converter is less likely to be screwing things up, but if you have a current drain with no fuses in it might be the issue. It is important to separately test the DC part separately and without AC running to your camper. A buddy had his converter go bad and things worked fine on 12v but when plugged into AC his lights dimmed and DC voltage freaked out and dropped low. Those clamp multimeters are awesome. A nice and more permanent solution there is to get a trimeric (or other) ammeter + shunt to be able to always monitor current from the battery without using a multimeter.
This should give you a start. Not an electric wiz but can play one for basic troubleshooting. Others may chime in too.....
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