WARNING !! LOCKOUT DANGER

I have never locked the top lock, but good to know anyway in case I ever feel the need to. Thanks for posting and I hope you get at least an explanation from the lock company.

That is the way the locks on my last five travel trailers has functioned. Since I also have a hidden key, it has not been a worry although I have never needed the backup.

Everything you need to know about RV entry locks how they work and how they don't work and how they break often, and the wonderful use of pot metal on the locking mechanism.
http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28646571/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm

Been there done that 'twice'. I now leave one window 'unlocked' at all times on my RV. So I can get in, and/or out if you have a TT when the locks fail.

I too have experienced this with my new Passport TT, luckily it happened in my driveway and I had the keys in my pocket. I told my wife about it once I realized how it worked so she doesn't lock herself out at the campground.
Another bad experience I had was the very first weekend I had the trailer, I put the key in the lock and when I tried to turn the lock the key twisted right off. I didn't even put much pressure on it, very poor quality keys. Luckily the broken part was sticking out enough that I was able to pull it out of the cylinder easily. I ordered multiple spare keys since I suspect this will probably happen again.

The door latch lock really is only good for dropping the trailer off for service (since dealers have a master key for that lock only). I only use the deadbolt normally. Both for the lockout reason, and because it actually secures the door in transit. I've had a door come open while driving (actually more than once), because the normal road motions can cause the regular latch to "walk" open.

Recently, I upgraded to an electronic keypad lock. Greatest thing ever when there's multiple users! But I still keep a spare TT key in the van, in case the batteries die. Even if unlocked, it appears to make one last lock as the batteries die (found out the hard way).

Huntindog wrote:
They acknowledged that it was a problem, and even sent out parts at no charge in a futile attempt to fix it.

But now they are ignoring me.

I suspect what really happened here is that in your original conversation with the Fastec CSR she misunderstood your concern and assumed your lock had failed, just as many FIC locks have failed, locking someone inside the trailer. The recall covering this failure has been in effect for several years now, is well known, and the fix is exactly what FIC did in your case - send you a new key lock cylinders, not an entire lock assembly.

As far as "ignoring" you is concerned, there's not much Fastec can do if this is just the way the lock normally works and isn't a lock failure covered under terms of the recall ... you may not agree with it but the obvious solution (for all of us) is to have a spare set of keys external from the trailer, just as it's always a good idea to have a spare set of keys for the truck. However, that won't necessarily solve the problem if the trailer's entry door lock has actually failed, as described in the Fastec recall ... for that one should always have an alternate plan for getting inside the trailer should it ever be necessary.

Since my own trailer has a front queen island bed with a front pass through storage compartment below it (as probably the majority most trailer designs do) I'm modifying the centre panel separating the under bed storage area from the front pass through so it can easily be removed from the storage compartment side, allowing me to gain access to the interior of the trailer via the pass through storage compartment. Once inside the under bed storage area I've found I can easily slip through one of the cabinet doors I had previously added to the end of the bed platform ... alternately, I found I can lift the bed platform itself but it certainly is more difficult lifting the weight of the mattress than simply slipping through the cabinet door. Regardless, I'll feel better knowing I can easily get inside the trailer should that entry door lock ever fail, without having to take a grinder or pry bar to it.

magnetic key holder...

My 5vr door lock works the same way......lock it with key and you can be locked out.

Now it doesn't do that cause I modified the top lock.

Course it no longer locks at all cause when I was locked out I had to break the small lever that engages handle locking it.
Deadbolt works just fine and unlocks with lever inside.

The "always unlocked" interior feature is newer it has been required in many counties and or states by our government, in new home construction. I do not know if it applies to travel trailer and or motor homes. In my area I can only buy this ridiculous type of lockset, and no where on the package does it tell you the interior handle is "always unlocked " so the old giving the door handle a good twist before bed to insure it is locked goes out the door. Our government does not want anyone to get locked inside there home, yes I said INSIDE.

bg71361 wrote:
...Our government does not want anyone to get locked inside there home, yes I said INSIDE.

It is for quick egress in case of a fire. One can always make the argument against government mandated requirements, and I'm one who does that often, but it is safer to not have to fiddle with a lock in an emergency.