WD hitch design versus TV ride quality

carringb wrote:
How does a Hensley or ProPride result in a better ride than any other round-bar weight-distribution hitch?

They cost more, so they must work better. Right??

How does a Hensley or ProPride result in a better ride than any other round-bar weight-distribution hitch?

Timtation wrote:
Local CL has a Hensley Arrow for $1K this versus probably $650 for the Andersen. Does the Hensley really separate the loading or dampen the effect of the loading from the TV? I can see how the Andersen dampens via the plastic cylinders but the Hensley just seems to be a series of disconnects. I am thinking mush connection, kindalike 1950 power steering.

I would highly recommend the HA. Look back at my previous post, my first thread. It was a total game changer. Since I have gotten mine, my father has gotten one and has started to use his 1/2 ton to tow his 26ft trailer. Both of us will not go back. The mile the two of us have towed trailers of all sorts is unimaginable, but the HA enhances the ride, control, and trip.

There is not slop, no slushy feelings, it's just smooth.

Joe

Local CL has a Hensley Arrow for $1K this versus probably $650 for the Andersen. Does the Hensley really separate the loading or dampen the effect of the loading from the TV? I can see how the Andersen dampens via the plastic cylinders but the Hensley just seems to be a series of disconnects. I am thinking mush connection, kindalike 1950 power steering.

When I picked up my TT, I backed the TV into the garage, the dealer installed the Blue Ox WD hitch and except for adding or subtracting a chain link to keep the TT level, I have never had an issue.

Timtation wrote:
Thanks to all for the responses. It seems it is a good idea to either drill a set point into the rail to hold that bracket in place or tack weld the bracket. I have seen several posts here and elsewhere that mention the movement of the bracket.

Actually I did drill for the set screw on my brackets before finally tack welding - in my case it didn't help. I got the "Universal Frame Brackets" which fit several different sizes of frames. On those the set screw is high up near the top of the bracket and is very close to the pivot point. I'm not sure if it's located further down the bracket on the specific-sized brackets, but I think it would work better the further away from the pivot point it gets.

That being said I really do like the hitch now that it's dialed in. We just got back from an almost 400 mile round trip where I found it to be very stable when being passed by semi's and in some good stiff crosswinds as we headed out to the coast. But in my opinion they need to address the slipping in a more reliable way, and ideally without a weld.

Hensley Arrow, wonderful ride, don't feel the tt at all.

Thanks to all for the responses. It seems it is a good idea to either drill a set point into the rail to hold that bracket in place or tack weld the bracket. I have seen several posts here and elsewhere that mention the movement of the bracket.
Now I just need to find the billfold with the moths so I can extract some of those misplaced large bills.
Tim

lanerd wrote:
If the friend went to a Hensley or Pro Pride, I can understand the statement. We had the Dual Cam and went to the HA, and the difference was night and day.

Ron

X2

It has been the best thing I've done.

Wife and kiddos are happy.


Joe

Not CAT scales, but this was my weight sheet with my Andersen shortly after getting it.



We could not try to dial in more front weight as my frame mounts had already slipped and limited our adjustments. A few thousand miles later I believe that if I put 5-turns or more into the system I'm more likely to have sway issues that my Ford intervenes with. I also realize I'm possibly too light on the tongue, but test drives with 160lbs of water softener salt in the basement showed no improvement.