Forum Discussion

rfloyd99's avatar
rfloyd99
Explorer
Jan 15, 2016

WD hitch question

Well, I finally bought my 1st RV! I got a Jay Feather 23RBM TT,26' OA length, 4837 dry wt (per the door sticker).

Specs say the dry hitch wt is 460, but this hasn't been measured, and until we load it and weigh it we won't know exactly.

See no reason our added cargo wt would exceed the usual 800-1000 lbs.

Will be towing with a '12 Ram 1500 with the large gas V8. Live in Florida, but will be travelling in the Rocky Mountains some.

The dealer is including a Pro Series ( a Reese product) WD hitch as part of the package. No sway control. They said I should wait until I have used the rig to see if sway is a problem, and sway control could then be added.

Here's the question:

Is that an okay hitch, or should I be asking (paying) for an upgrade? Also, is the sway control analysis reasonable? And, does my trailer have electric brake control or surge? They will also be adding a brake control box in the truck, which leads me to believe the brakes are electric.

Thanks for your help with this. I need to decide quickly if I need to do anything different, as the rig will be delivered in a few days.

Riley
  • I have used both the Eazilift and the Equal-i-zer 4 point systems. Equal-i-zer is much better in my experience.
  • We have a 25 ft. Dutchmen with a dry weight of 5000 lbs. and supposedly 450 lbs. on the tongue. As you will hear repeatedly the Dry weights really do not mean a thing.

    The actual scale numbers when the TT is loaded for travel are; TT weight 6200 lbs. of which 700 lbs. is on the tongue. My TV payload is 1400 lbs. So with two adults, a dog and gear totaling 500 to 600 lbs. and a tongue weight of 700 lbs. we are at our limit.

    We have had great success with our Blue Ox WD hitch; it has a stabilizing feature built in.
  • We had a Pro Series, and that uses a friction bar for sway control. It worked well enough, but when we upgraded the trailer, we upgraded the hitch to a Blue Ox. We were split between the Blue Ox, Equalizer and Reese Dual Cam. Ended up with the Blue Ox due to the simple install, and easy hookup/removal. All are great hitches, though.

    Given you have the choice now, go with something that has an integrated sway control. The friction type work, but they are noisy as hell on slow turns and there are some caveats with backing up (you need to remove the pressure from the plate first).
  • It turns out that the dealer I am buying the TT from is an Equalizer dealer, so I got him to upgrade me to an Equalizer hitch.

    Thanks to all for the good advice.
  • I used a Reese SC hitch that incorporates weight distribution and sway control in one. Similar set up, 6,000 pound trailer behind a 1/2 ton Nissan Titan. The spring bars ride on brake pad type friction material to reduce sway. 5 years of towing and never an instance of sway. Recommend. Kind of noisy at slow speeds when turning or backing.
  • Durb wrote:
    I used a Reese SC hitch that incorporates weight distribution and sway control in one. Similar set up, 6,000 pound trailer behind a 1/2 ton Nissan Titan. The spring bars ride on brake pad type friction material to reduce sway. 5 years of towing and never an instance of sway. Recommend. Kind of noisy at slow speeds when turning or backing.


    I have one like this also..I added a Friction Sway bar to mine also for some additional help. I just have to remember to remove when backing.
  • I agree with all the replies thus far and one thing you definitely need to do is ...

    1. THROW OUT ANYTHING that dealer has told you so far since he/she is smoking some BAD STUFF.

    2. Find another dealer that is competent for any future service/advice since the one you have now is INCOMPETENT bordering on being downright DANGEROUS.

    3. Assume that whatever that dealer does to set up your hitch system will be DONE WRONG so either take it IMMEDIATELY to a competent dealer or redo the setup sooner than later and I would recommend you become familiar with the setup procedures for whatever will be installed on your trailer and then PERSONALLY watch it being installed to assess just how bad they are going to SCREW IT UP.

    Good call on going with the Equal-i-zer and make sure you get a properly sized one with sufficient capacity to cover potential tongue wt. that might apply.


    Larry
  • LarryJM wrote:
    I agree with all the replies thus far and one thing you definitely need to do is ...

    1. THROW OUT ANYTHING that dealer has told you so far since he/she is smoking some BAD STUFF.

    2. Find another dealer that is competent for any future service/advice since the one you have now is INCOMPETENT bordering on being downright DANGEROUS.

    3. Assume that whatever that dealer does to set up your hitch system will be DONE WRONG so either take it IMMEDIATELY to a competent dealer or redo the setup sooner than later and I would recommend you become familiar with the setup procedures for whatever will be installed on your trailer and then PERSONALLY watch it being installed to assess just how bad they are going to SCREW IT UP.

    Good call on going with the Equal-i-zer and make sure you get a properly sized one with sufficient capacity to cover potential tongue wt. that might apply.


    Larry


    X2

    I watched the the shop guys install and set up mine, and did the measuring (height change) myself. I could tell they were getting peeved with me when I told them to readjust for the third time because it wasn't yet right. They started just slapping on the bolts with the impact wrench. So when I got the rig home I retorqued everything. Sure enough, some bolts were on so tight I had to use a length of pipe as a cheater bar to loosen, others were barely finger tight.
  • OP here. I took delivery of my TT (1st one, remember) on Friday. I paid $150 to upgrade to the proper size (I called the techs at the factory) Equalizer hitch.

    Thanks for all the help on this issue!