WD Hitch Setup Question

I recently upgraded my TV to Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel, and just because I got a bigger, badder truck, wife and I decided we needed a bigger, badder travel trailer. Got a 2016 Lacrosse 324RST. Just picked it up today. Really liking the rig and the deal we got.

Anyways, the dealer set up the WD hitch. It's a Husky Centerline TS. 1200lb bars. I used it on my old TT, and really happy with the hitch.

I weighed the truck full tank of gas (no passengers). I know I will eventually weigh full passengers etc, but since I was by myself, decided to weigh it just full gas no passengers. Weights on each axel were

Front: 4820
Rear: 3080
Total 7900

Weighed it again today, with TT trailer hooked up dry (I know, will weigh again fully loaded). Got these weights

Front: 4500
Rear: 4580
Trailer Axle 7700
Gross weight 16780

So, the current WD setup is taking 320 lbs off the front axle. Im thinking I want to adjust it to put more weight back to the front axle. It drove fine, didn't seem to have any issues with the less weight on the axle. Of course, adding my wife and I will put that much weight back on the axle, so maybe I should just leave it.

I've got 1180lb tongue weight, based on these numbers. Total trailer dry weight is 8880lbs. That includes two 30 lb Propane tanks full, and the battery. Im thinking I might need to go to a higher capacity WD hitch, since my bars are 1200lb bars and thats the highest the Husky Centerline has. 1180 lbs is 13% of the total weight.

So, guess two questions...

1) Should I adjust WD hitch to put more weight on front axle, or not worry about it, since adding passenger weight will bring it up. And, of course, that will be countered by whatever I load up in the front storage compartment, once Im loaded for travel.

2) Should I find a WD hitch with 1400lb capability? My hitch and my shank is rated for 1400 for WD hitch. Im guessing so, given the fact that if I keep my tongue weight at 13% I will be at 1285 tongue weight.

The truck and trailer do sit level, and I have the before measurements of the wheel wells, just haven't taken the after measurements yet, and it's dark out, so I can measure them later to see if the front has lifted up. Im guessing it has some amount.

I will be weighing it again fully loaded, but if I should adjust the hitch, I can do it easily enough now.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Feb 11, 2016
Actually, with your trailer hitch, the weight on both the front and back axle of the truck is pretty darn close:

Front: 4500
Rear: 4580

You're only 80 pounds different. I think you've achieved (almost) perfection here.

With no trailer, there is a difference of 740 pounds between front and rear! (heavy engine, nothing in the bed of the truck -- heavy front, light in the back when empty.)

A lot of folks will haul something heavy in the back of their pick-ups just to add more weight on the rear for better traction, more weight, especially in winter on slippery roads because every truck I've ever seen, is always engine heavy, tail light.

With your trailer and set up, you have almost equal on both axles. Really! I think you've achieved it! Don't mess with it. You've arrived!
Walaby
Explorer II
Feb 12, 2016
Thanks Dutchmen.

Do you think I need to be concerned at all about Tongue weight being right at 1200, and probably 100 lbs over (once loaded), although the ball, hitch, and shank are all capable/rated at 1400 lbs, but bars are rated at only 1200?

Mike
downtheroad
Explorer
Feb 12, 2016
I agree with DutchmenSport. Your numbers sound really good.
My concern is the 1200 lb bars. Your new trailer is 36+ feet and north of 10K GVWR. The 1200 bars are right on the edge.

If it were mine, I'd order the next size up in bar rating.

I have a new rig coming soon. 30 footer at 10K GVWR. I'm going with a Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch and both the dealer and Blue Ox recommended the 1500 pound bars.

Anyway, great looking trailer. Enjoy it.
(and yes, new bigger truck ALWAYS results in another trailer!!)
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Feb 12, 2016
I had to re-read your post several times to understand, but thinking about it, "Yes", you probably should get the heavier WD system (1400 pounds).

I have no clue what would happen if you were slightly over the max for your bars, but assuming you were, on a smooth ride, or sitting still, it would probably have no ill effect. But if you hit that one bump in the road that would cause the trailer to porpoise (up and down), that sudden thrust of weight (bouncing), could be enough to either bend the bars or break the hitch head itself.

I tried a Google search on the affect of overloading a WD bar, but could not anything. Maybe I did't dig deep enough. But my imagination has a picture of a wire cloths hanger that is used for hanging a shirt on. Hang a winter coat on that same hanger, and it would soon bend and the coat would slip off. I can see the bars bending at the one "bump" you weren't expecting.

Considering you have a substantial investment in your truck and trailer, and you have stepped up to a heavier model now, it probably would be in your best interest to get those heavier bars. I am sure, you will never regret it.

I'm no expert, but if it were me, I'd get the heavier bars. (and hope you can achieve the same equal weight on both axles of the truck).
Walaby
Explorer II
Feb 12, 2016
Thanks guys. I was kinda thinking the same about the bars. Just hope i can get the same equal weight rating. Think I'll start by calling Husky tomorrow to see if they make a 1400 or 1500 lb bar. If not, it's probably on to Blue Ox.

Thanks

Mike
Terryallan
Explorer II
Feb 12, 2016
For me. I'd get the front down close to the unhitched weight. 320lb is a lot to take off the front. Remember it does ALL of the steering, and "most" of the stopping.

My aim is always. Get the front right, and the rear will take care of it self. As to the bars. Get the size you need to get the weight back on the front. Only when you return the lost weight to the steering axle will you have returned full steering control. Lost weight on the steering axle is lost control.
Terryallan
Explorer II
Feb 12, 2016
.
Need-A-Vacation
Explorer
Feb 12, 2016
Congrats on the new rig combo!!!

Numbers don't look bad as mentioned. I also agree though on the wd bars being undersized, especially once loaded.... I would highly suggest a new 2.5" shank with the new wdh. When you mentioned hitch is rated for 1400, is that the trucks receiver hitch?

Good luck!!!
rbpru
Explorer II
Feb 12, 2016
Truck and trailer sit level, steering feels good, weight looks well distributed between the axles; sounds like the hitch is doing what it is supposed to do.

Sometimes it is better not to over analyst success.
Walaby
Explorer II
Feb 12, 2016
Need-A-Vacation wrote:
Congrats on the new rig combo!!!

Numbers don't look bad as mentioned. I also agree though on the wd bars being undersized, especially once loaded.... I would highly suggest a new 2.5" shank with the new wdh. When you mentioned hitch is rated for 1400, is that the trucks receiver hitch?

Good luck!!!

Receiver hitch is a class V receiver, although Im using a sleeve to reduce it to 2" vice 2.5" I couldn't find a shank that would drop enough that was a 2.5" So, even though it is a Class V and rated at 1700 tongue weight with WD hitch, Im assuming the reducer would bring it down some, to maybe a Class IV. I did have the reducer welded in, because I didn't like the added slop of using the receiver.

The WD hitch (Husky Centerline TS) may only be rated for 1200lbs. I know the shank is rated for 1500lbs, as I bought that separately. For sure the bars are only 1200.

Mike

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