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love2rvcamp's avatar
love2rvcamp
Explorer
Sep 22, 2014

What makes a 4 seasons trailer

We currently have a Rockwood 8313SS and for what we do now it suits us. We have been looking at dealerships and camping shows for 4 seasons trailers. Of course we find each brand has their definition of why theirs is a 4 seasons unit. We looked at Open Range this weekend and they were touting their R values (R 38 in roof and floor R8 walls)

We hear.... oh ours have these R value in the roof, floor and walls. We have enclosed underbelly and on this one ours is heated. Oh and on this one all dump valves are enclosed but ours are better because they are enclosed and heated.

So what are your thoughts on what makes a 4 seasons unit. Not for full time living as I know that is a whole other set of issues. Just something that we could camp all year round once we can hit the road for long periods.

18 Replies

  • Ron3rd's avatar
    Ron3rd
    Explorer III
    There's no real industry standard as to what a "4 season" trailer is. "Generally" they will have an enclosed underbelly and heated tanks at a minimum. The features go up from there like double pane glass, better insulation, etc. It's a term that is used loosely. My Windjammer is supposedly a 4 season trailer.
  • The best "4 season" trailer is the one that is parked in So Calif, New Mexico, Arizona, or Florida in the winter.

    (sorry if I left out your favorite 4 season location)
  • 4 season kind of depends on where you plan to be. 4 Seasons in Michigan means that the furnace and insulation has to be good enough so you and your water lines don't freeze on ZERO degree weather. Dual pane windows would be a must have. All hook ups and related controls need to be enclosed in the heated underbelly. Large propane tanks with a way to get them filled often.

    Any trailer could be used 4 seasons if the temp's stay above freezing or below freezing for only a few hours at night. Myrtle Beach comes to mind of a place that any trailer could be 4 season.
    Randu
  • I would be looking for an RV with the underbody covered and the dump valves both enclosed within the underbody and heated. The plastic sheeting works well. My previous TT had the plastic sheeting and although I was sceptical of the sheeting it works quite well.
  • donn0128 wrote:
    99% markering hype. The rest is just BS.
    Pick your RV with the highest insulation values you can find. To that add insulated and heated tanks, double pane windows and your RV will be as good as it can get for cold weather camping.


    Correct answer
  • The "4-season" naming came into existence to allow for a saleable upgrade in place of traditionally insulated and configured trailers. In today's TT's it usually means foam filled walls, some extra insulation in floors and ceiling, and may include multi-pane windows (not always).

    Insulation values are calculated as to the dimension of the structure and the materials used to fill it. Most RV's have an expended foam material for insulation. Some aluminum sided trailers use spun fiberglass batts. Some use a combination of both.

    A newer material used is an air-filled plastic film with a radiant reflective barrier on one side. Generically, it could be named Reflectix. The makers of Reflectix claim that the 1/4" plastic film can have an R-value of R-38. This would be true if the space insulated was more than 6" and the space behind the barrier was a vacuum-sealed chamber. To date, there is not such a space so their claims are not correct. Some RV mfg's push those claims into their build sheets and the buyers believe it. A few nights in cold weather will displace the claims quickly.

    Insulation values and a chart of different materials
  • Mine has a 4 seasons sticker on the side so it must be good for all 4 seasons:)
    Funny thing is it only has R15-R18 insulation and no dual pane windows. It does have heated, insulated and enclosed tanks.

    One thing to remember is that with heated tanks is that unless they have elec pads on them then you have to run the furnace to heat them. If you're camping in sub freezing weather then that could use a lot of propane.

    All the hype about 4 season is really worthless if the trailer has air gaps where they cut out for elec or plumbing in the outside walls and floor.

    Best thing to do is open all the drawers and doors and look at how they sealed everything up. Sometimes you need to remove access plates or drawers to see back in the cabinets. It can be ugly sometimes.

    If you want better 4 season values then you need to look at higher end units that are recommended for full timing.
  • 99% markering hype. The rest is just BS.
    Pick your RV with the highest insulation values you can find. To that add insulated and heated tanks, double pane windows and your RV will be as good as it can get for cold weather camping.