Forum Discussion
- TurnThePageExplorerI would like to add that "Escape" trailers have their tanks and some plumbing exposed under the trailer, and I don't think the floor has any insulation on its own. Definitely not winter grade in my opinion. They do offer to add spray foam down there which I'm sure helps.
If you're talking about having an actual mobile RV for winter camping, it's gonna cost. Otherwise, you can take almost any unit and make it survivable over a winter. - marcsbigfoot20bExplorerI have a 2000 Bigfoot 27 foot. Bigfoot costs more but you get what you pay for if you need it for cold...or hot.
The things that make them work well are, Thermopane dual pane windows, big BTU heaters, very good insulation on all 6 sides, no slides, heated and enclosed tanks and valves, water tank in living space (like under bed) and water lines run through floor heater ducts, etc. They dont usually leak air as in if you have everything closed and turn on a fantastic fan you can hear the difference when you crack a window open.
Propane tanks are also enclosed.
As long as you have enough propane and solar to keep up with the heater blower motor, you are good to go.
On a side note, same with Phoenix 116 degree heat. Only difference is that it takes waaay more propane to run my built in generator for the air conditioning, but it will stay low 70s inside even in the sun. - DurbExplorerI had a 25' Bigfoot and used it in 100+ and just below freezing. I can't say their insulation is super but they are tight and don't swap much air with the outdoors. The nature of their interior design reduces the cubes which make them fast to heat and cool. Moisture mitigation is something to be cognizant of because they don't breathe well. This could be why Bigfoot does not recommend them for full time use. Their frames are massive and the roofs are solid so snow buildup wouldn't be a problem. Lot of foul weather security knowing the roof won't leak.
If you buy used, your cost will be high. You will be able to sell it high on the back end so net cost of ownership is low. Sold mine for what I paid, used it 5 years for just maintenance costs. - rbpruExplorer IIThe bottom line is if you want 4 seasons. You want heated tanks, double glass windows and other weather related changes. They cost money.
- SkibaneExplorer II^Yes, catalytic heater manufacturers typically recommend a 2"x 12" (or similar 24 square inch) opening for ventilation.
Being completely silent in operation and not requiring any electrical power more than make up for this inconvenience. - canoe_on_topExplorerI know that catalytic heaters have a lot of safeguards but, they still consume oxygen.I have friends that use them although they turn the off when they are sleeping. I have never been a fan of combustion inside other than the stove while cooking. I leave one or more ceiling vents open slightly to deal with condensation. I would not consider that adequate to replace consumed oxygen.
- SkibaneExplorer II
canoe on top wrote:
I have been comfortable in my Artic Fox at a bit below zero. I have factory storm windows which, apparently, they no longer make. Thermopane would be the next, best thing.
One trick is to install heat-to-shrink window film on the inside of all windows that don't need to be opened during the winter.
The film isn't quite as good an insulator as a second glass pane, but it's MUCH better than nothing.If you are looking at four season, remember that the dump valves have to be enclosed and heated, not just the tanks. Tank heaters are, also good.
Many cold-weather campers simply stop using the toilet and shower in sub-freezing weather.
The fresh water tank and associated plumbing can sometimes still be used to a degree, if they share the same heated air space with the occupants.Winter camping pretty much requires 120 power. Ideally, shore power, otherwise, you will be running your generator quite a bit to keep the batteries charged because of furnace use. Would require a pretty good battery bank and a lot of solar to go that route.
Catalytic heaters completely eliminate battery drain, but can still provide a lot of heat - One 8,000 BTU cat heater running full-time equals a 16,000 BTU furnace that runs 50% of the time. - canoe_on_topExplorerYou might look at the Arctic Fox or Nash 22G.
- csh_2088Explorer IIArctic Fox are great but very expensive and big. I am looking for something smaller like the Bigfoot 17, Bigfoot 21, or the Escape 5.0.
- canoe_on_topExplorerI have been comfortable in my Artic Fox at a bit below zero. I have factory storm windows which, apparently, they no longer make. Thermopane would be the next, best thing. If you are looking at four season, remember that the dump valves have to be enclosed and heated, not just the tanks.Tank heaters are, also good.Winter camping pretty much requires 120 power. Ideally, shore power, otherwise, you will be running your generator quite a bit to keep the batteries charged because of furnace use. Would require a pretty good battery bank and a lot of solar to go that route.
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