My truck is a 2011 Ford F350 6.4L dually, that I believe has a maximum listed payload of around 5000# and I have recently ordered a new Northern Lite 10-2 CD Special Edition camper for it that I will be getting next spring. I expect the camper fully loaded will weigh around 4500#. I will also be towing a drift boat from time to time, but that is relatively lightweight, and would not add appreciably to the truck's hitch weightI have towed a relatively large and heavy 5th wheel trailer with my truck, but have never owned a truck camper. However, since I've got some time between now and when I get the Northern Lite, I would like to consider upgrades to the truck's suspension beforehand, so when I put the camper on it for the first time, and drive off into the sunset (!) everything will be just as I dreamed it would be, and not have any significant problems - if that's possible.Everything is pretty much stock on my truck right now, other than what I call "trim" accessories, including a nice pair of Duraflap mud flaps. Also, I am presently running BF Goodrich Rugged Trail 245/75/17E AT tires on the truck right now.What, if any, upgrades to my truck's suspension should I consider getting? What order of priority would you suggest for them? Also, where there are different product brands available, what are the best brands to consider? I suppose these could include things like Torklift Stableloads, lower and or upper, sway bars for the rear and/or front, air bags, or tires. Perhaps there are other things as well.I know practically nothing in this area, other than the limited things I've read here, and on manufacturer's websites. So, all of your thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.John

There are many products available (and "opinions" as to which is best to go along with those.)I can appreciate you wanting to get a leg up on any improvements, but perhaps it might be prudent to put the camper on the truck and see if it will actually need any modifications and then take it from there?

Those dually's are heavy duty. There is a big difference between a SRW and DRW, even if they might have the same or close to the same ratings.We had a GMC and did nothing to the suspension to load it with the biggest Lance and towed a 6000 pound boat. The suspension needed nothing.I doubt if you will have to do anything, but a hitch extension, see Etrailer for that.

I agree. No sense in putting the cart in front of the horse. Wait until you have the camper and see if you need anything at all. Adding things now is not necessarily a wise expenditure of funds.

Okay, I'm glad I asked. It sounds like maybe I should just wait to see how well my truck handles the camper. I know when I hitch up my 5th wheel (20,000# gross, and probably 3000# plus pin weight) the truck hardly takes a deep breath.I have looked at hitch extensions on etrailer, and thought I'd wait until I have the camper on the truck to see how long an extension to get. Oh, not that it matters, but I almost forgot that I'll also be towing another somewhat larger trailer from time to time, hauling my Polaris Ranger side by side (perhaps 3000#, with probably as much as 500# tongue weight, depending on how the Polaris is loaded on the trailer.)

I agree with the other posters to wait and see. I would put a set of Bilstein 4600 shocks on as routine maintenance which will improve the ride at the very least. A 2011 truck is ready for new shocks probably.

What suspension upgrades i should consider for my truck?

17 Replies

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nov 15, 2016
On the hitch extension front, take a look at the Torklift Superhitch. For the most part the hitch extensions on etrailer are for light duty purposes. The 24"-34" extension is just the bar, and will rattle and flop about without stay chains and turnbuckles. They leave figuring out the stay chains and where to attach them to you. The Torklift is not cheap but it is a completely engineered system ready to bolt on to your truck.
jimh406
Explorer III
Nov 15, 2016
I've been happy with airbags plus energy suspension bump stops to contact the overloads on both my trucks. I run Bilstein 4600s on my F450, and find the ride much smoother than either the stock shocks or Rancho 9000 shocks on my previous SRW.
Strabo
Explorer
Nov 14, 2016
I replaced the shocks on our 04 F350 PSD longbed, but I don't like the ride on our local freeway, it bounces alot. I bought Rancho rs 5000. With our 32' toy Hauler attached it's great, unloaded it's bad. I'm lost on what to do, maybe new type of shocks in the rear only?
HMS_Beagle
Explorer
Nov 14, 2016
d3500ram wrote:
HMS Beagle wrote:
The best modification you can make is converting the rear suspension to air. ...

Beagle- are you referring to something like a Kelderman setup? (not just airbags, right?)

Yes. I did the Autoflex Ultra 4 link system (you will not find it on the Autoflex website). Kelderman did not make anything for my 2WD truck, also the Autoflex is non-invasive, requiring no modifications whatsoever to the truck. Ride empty is improved, ride loaded is greatly improved, and the headlights always point the same way :). I'm thinking about airing the front now, as it seems harsh by comparison.

It is expensive, though a small percentage of what a new truck (or camper) cost these days. A link to my installation. Keep in mind that the prices are in Canadian dollars, so you get a 20 percent discount, at least until President Trump repeals NAFTA :).
a_flyfisher
Explorer
Nov 14, 2016
HMS Beagle wrote:
The best modification you can make is converting the rear suspension to air. It's pricey, but you will not be sorry you did. This solves, at the root, problems which many other solutions attempt to band aid over. It's how the truck should have been built to begin with.

Is that like the Autoflex auto ride that you have? I'll look at them.

On edit:
Yowzee! I did look at them, and you did say they are a bit expensive!
a_flyfisher
Explorer
Nov 14, 2016
Artum Snowbird wrote:
I am curious. Did you buy the EX version of the 10-2 with the dry bath setup? If you did, you likely know it really is an 11'1" camper.

Now adding a hitch to your truck to haul your boat is going to get way out there and depending on the tongue weight of your boat, and the feet to the hitch ball behind the real axle, weight can change the loading of the front and back truck axles.

Like others said, wait and see how it works for you. But definitely do some trips over the weight scale with different combinations to get an accurate picture.

Very nice camper!!

No, I am getting the wet bath version. I have never used a wet bath, intentionally, so it might take some getting used to, and I may end up wishing I got the dry bath version.

I often accidentally take a wet bath though when I fall in when fishing, or as I recall when fishing in the Campbell River, when wading over the top of my waders. Oh, well...
Artum_Snowbird
Explorer
Nov 14, 2016
I am curious. Did you buy the EX version of the 10-2 with the dry bath setup? If you did, you likely know it really is an 11'1" camper.

Now adding a hitch to your truck to haul your boat is going to get way out there and depending on the tongue weight of your boat, and the feet to the hitch ball behind the real axle, weight can change the loading of the front and back truck axles.

Like others said, wait and see how it works for you. But definitely do some trips over the weight scale with different combinations to get an accurate picture.

Very nice camper!!
d3500ram
Explorer III
Nov 14, 2016
HMS Beagle wrote:
The best modification you can make is converting the rear suspension to air. ...

Beagle- are you referring to something like a Kelderman setup? (not just airbags, right?)
HMS_Beagle
Explorer
Nov 14, 2016
The best modification you can make is converting the rear suspension to air. It's pricey, but you will not be sorry you did. This solves, at the root, problems which many other solutions attempt to band aid over. It's how the truck should have been built to begin with.
towpro
Explorer
Nov 14, 2016
Yes, New Holland is just over the hill from me. We like to go to Yoders for dinner :).