What the heck is Tow/haul for?
I have a new 2013 F150 302V8, 6spd auto, 4x4, long box, extended cab. I am now hauling a 2100kg TT and am wondering what does pressing the Tow/Haul button does. What would I notice with and withou...
Forum Discussion
#1 Most sales people are useless when it comes to this kind of information. I researched my truck for over a year and knew every detail, every option, what was included with what package, what color combos were available etc etc before I started to talk to a sales person. Its sad, but its true.
#2 The job of a service writer is to get you to purchase as much service as neccessary. They rarely know anything about the vehicle, but know enough jargon to confuse some people into buying unncessary service.
#3 I agree that most owners manuals now do a poor job of explaining some features. In essence, most tow/haul modes do a couple of things; they adjust your shift points higher so you get into higher RPM's before shifting (more power), they downshift when you brake (more stopping power) and often times they increase line pressure to the transmission (better cooling).
#4 The trailer isn't overly huge, but its not a walk in the park either. 4600 lbs dry can be well over 5500 lbs loaded. Pulling that up a hill or keeping it under control down a hill requires more work on the truck. I use tow haul on my truck when pulling my camper thats only 1000 lbs heavier.
#5 A gas engine isn't overworking at 5000 RPM. Your redline is probably well into the 6000 range. Redline is the RPM that you do not want to exceed. If you are driving UP the hill, 5000 RPM will gulp down gas faster than you would ever want to know. Going DOWN the hill you shouldn't be using gas, just using the engine for assistance braking. Obviously you don't want to be doing 5000 RPM in 1st gear. Ideally you have slowed down enough BEFORE you get to the hill that you aren't constantly revving 5000 RPM the entire time. Between your brakes and engine braking you should be able to slow down enough that your RPMs drop. I was in the mountains 2 weeks ago comeing down a 12% grade through some windy roads. I had the trans in 2nd gear and it was up around 4500 RPM's. I would still pick up speed and had to occasionally use the brakes to keep my speed steady and at a comfortable rate. It felt a little uneasy hearing that engine roar (I have a louder aftermarket exhaust), but the truck handled it fine and kept the speeds reasonable on that steep grade. Engine builders know what they are doing, you just have to learn to be comfortable with the engine revving that high. Its like riding a sportbike... those suckers can get up to 13K RPMs. Feels awful weird the first couple times hearing that engine scream, but thats what they are designed for. Same with your gas truck engine.
#6 Usually the trans gauge is an "idiot light", not a great representation of your trans temp. Usually by the time you notice that the needle is rising, you are getting pretty hot temps. If you have the ability to see your actual transmission temperature, that is the best. You can know that your truck is usually 180 degrees, but goes up to 200 when you are towing. If you see it start to creep up to 210... you know that its hotter then normal and can start to closely monitor it. If your truck doesn't offer that, you might be able to buy a Scangauge tool and monitor your temps via a OBD sensor.
#2 The job of a service writer is to get you to purchase as much service as neccessary. They rarely know anything about the vehicle, but know enough jargon to confuse some people into buying unncessary service.
#3 I agree that most owners manuals now do a poor job of explaining some features. In essence, most tow/haul modes do a couple of things; they adjust your shift points higher so you get into higher RPM's before shifting (more power), they downshift when you brake (more stopping power) and often times they increase line pressure to the transmission (better cooling).
#4 The trailer isn't overly huge, but its not a walk in the park either. 4600 lbs dry can be well over 5500 lbs loaded. Pulling that up a hill or keeping it under control down a hill requires more work on the truck. I use tow haul on my truck when pulling my camper thats only 1000 lbs heavier.
#5 A gas engine isn't overworking at 5000 RPM. Your redline is probably well into the 6000 range. Redline is the RPM that you do not want to exceed. If you are driving UP the hill, 5000 RPM will gulp down gas faster than you would ever want to know. Going DOWN the hill you shouldn't be using gas, just using the engine for assistance braking. Obviously you don't want to be doing 5000 RPM in 1st gear. Ideally you have slowed down enough BEFORE you get to the hill that you aren't constantly revving 5000 RPM the entire time. Between your brakes and engine braking you should be able to slow down enough that your RPMs drop. I was in the mountains 2 weeks ago comeing down a 12% grade through some windy roads. I had the trans in 2nd gear and it was up around 4500 RPM's. I would still pick up speed and had to occasionally use the brakes to keep my speed steady and at a comfortable rate. It felt a little uneasy hearing that engine roar (I have a louder aftermarket exhaust), but the truck handled it fine and kept the speeds reasonable on that steep grade. Engine builders know what they are doing, you just have to learn to be comfortable with the engine revving that high. Its like riding a sportbike... those suckers can get up to 13K RPMs. Feels awful weird the first couple times hearing that engine scream, but thats what they are designed for. Same with your gas truck engine.
#6 Usually the trans gauge is an "idiot light", not a great representation of your trans temp. Usually by the time you notice that the needle is rising, you are getting pretty hot temps. If you have the ability to see your actual transmission temperature, that is the best. You can know that your truck is usually 180 degrees, but goes up to 200 when you are towing. If you see it start to creep up to 210... you know that its hotter then normal and can start to closely monitor it. If your truck doesn't offer that, you might be able to buy a Scangauge tool and monitor your temps via a OBD sensor.
