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path1's avatar
path1
Explorer
May 14, 2015

What to do about a useless limited slip rear end?

My 2001 ¾ ton Dodge has a limited slip rear end and is about useless ever since I got in in 2005. It now has 77,000 miles on it and works great, except for traction and A/C.

I get stuck pulling the wife’s TT to the street from side yard and I don’t get stuck in the same spot in our short Class C Majestic with a Ford. The Dodge has a “dana” stamped on diff cover. Don’t know what diff the class C has. The class C also has to more rear wheels in contact with ground if that matters. I get stuck maneuvering the TT out of its parking spot. The parking spot is level, but getting to it is not. Side to side and on a slope going up and down. When hooked up to TT, where I get stuck the left side is 38 ½ inches ground to bottom of wheel well and right side is 37 ¼ inches. To me, where I’m getting stuck shouldn’t be that big of deal. Tongue weight around 1,100. I did not get stuck in the same place with our older 9,000 pound 5th wheel.

I called a rear end shop that was recommended to me twice by different people and talked with them. The rear end shop recommended having them look at it and do a service of the rear end and if anything is wrong probably around $900-1,200 to re-build the diff. (And something must be wrong or I would be getting stuck).

I’m a getting set up for a killing? After they fix it I have spent $1,200 and would still have a limited slip. I was thinking about some type of locker rear end would serve me better and skip the $1,200 on a limited slip.

I’m not even sure how limited slips are supposed to work. I’ve heard there is a spring that activates something and have heard there is something like “hockey” pucks that tell one side that the other side slipping and puts on more pressure.

To see if my limited slip is even working should I find a level dirt place and floor it to see if both tires are kicking in? Or maybe where I’m getting stuck at is so steep (both up and down and side to side) a limited slip won’t make any difference anyways?

By know you can probably tell I don’t know much about rear ends.

Please help!

What would you do?

Anybody else have problems with theirs and how did you solve it.

(just edited...2 wheel drive, plenty of tread on new tires and diff oil was changed about 5,000 miles ago)

39 Replies

  • You can set the parking brake about 3/4 of the way to force some torque to the non-spinning wheel. This has worked very well in the mud with my Ford LS differentials in the past.
  • If you have a limited slip, Dodge specified how Dana built them with regards to the stacking and shimming of the clutch discs and steel plates for a softer feel and better tire wear. There is lots on the dodge forums about rebuilding the friction stacks with new parts and per the dana spec for an almost locker like feel. I believe it can also be a DIY job if you're handy.

    One thing to try, riding the brake can help apply load to the diff to get the clutch plates to lock up more.
  • Op here, thanks for the replys.

    The last time stuck and I didn't pull it out with class C, I tried to put more thought into it. I usually let out some air and see if that works and say OH Well and drag a chain out and pull out with class C.

    However last time stuck I jacked up right side to get the axle tube even and straight across tire to tire, not one side lower than the other side. That helped.

    Short answers to questions:

    “When you get stuck do both wheels spin or just one?”

    Right side that is the down hill spins a lot, left side that is uphill not so much, very little.


    “Sounds like your on wet grass or dirt.”

    Yes and the wetter it is the worse.



    “Try airing down the rear tires on the Dodge and see how that works!”

    Tried it and doesn’t seem to help.

    (get a) “four wheel drive”

    I should...Last 4 wheel drive I had the hub keep falling off, 1984 Ford, had to check every 5,000 miles to make sure those washer things with the tang that fits onto grove hasn’t backed out. Now that 4 wheel hubs are better I would go back. I don’t hear any bad news about newer 4 wheel drives.



    “Call Randy's ring pinion for more info.”

    WOW, your location says So Cal how did you know? They come highly recommended by several people I’ve talked with. They must be good they are talking about a 3 or4 day turn around after I get on the bottom of list calendar. So they have a waiting list. That’s an indication of a good shop IMO.

    "not friendly on streets especially when going around corners"

    Does it make noise or jerking feeling. Why not friendly?
  • Detroit locker is what I had in my Bronco for off road....not friendly on streets especially when going around corners.........thwang.

    Eaton True Trac would be a very good upgrade
  • I recommend an Eaton True Trac geared limited slip differential.
    It will cost about $700 to $850 depending on what axle. Available for Dana 60 or Dana 80. In addition to the $500+ rebuild. Detroit locker might be a bit harsh but about the same price.

    Call Randy's ring pinion for more info.

    http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffWizard.aspx
  • There are many different designs for limited slip differentials. The limited slip differentials I have owned have all been clutch based and have all lost their effectiveness over the years. I would not pay $1200 to fix a limited slip differential which was probably not very effective in the first place.

    If you want to be assured of traction get a selectable locking differential. The ones I am familiar with are ARB air lockers. When engaged the left wheel will always spin at the same rate as the right wheel... the wheels are locked together as if there is no differential at all.

    In my experience the best way to improve traction is getting more aggressive tires. Second is a locking differential. Third is four wheel drive. On my trail rig (A 76 Scout with ARB locking differentials front and rear) there are several places I can get in to / out of in 2wd with the rear diff locked that I can not with 4wd and open differentials.

    A locking diff is pretty expensive but in the same neighborhood you were quoted for rebuilding your limited slip. If you find yourself getting stuck often it might be worth the cost. You will probably find that you will rarely lock your differential BUT when you need to it can really save your day!
  • If your spinning one wheel then no matter what 2 will spin! Sounds like your on wet grass or dirt. The C isn't getting stuck because there is more contact patch due to the 4 tires. Try airing down the rear tires on the Dodge and see how that works!
  • How do you know your Dodge is supposed to have a limited slip? The "Dana" on the cover is the brand, it may or may not be a limited slip.

    When you get stuck do both wheels spin or just one?
  • "Limited skip" does not lock up the second wheel in all cases. Pulling a TT it may not lock but slip and help out. They are usually a type on diff oil that is used that when a friction is create "sticks" probably and better word somewhere. The pucks with springs is called a positraction and acts like a ratchet and does lockup. These are not usually installed as OEM you want to you tube limited slip verses positraction.

    Your case you may want to verify the diff has the correct oil in it and maybe change that out, the limited slip can be adjusted to be a little tighter not sure about your model.

    Don't expect that a rebuild would change it much sence you say this has been since new.