What's a fair cost for setting up my TV for towing?

Thanks for all your input on this, everybody. As I'm a bit "mechanically challenged," to be kind, I'm having the dealer install all the hitch parts two days before we pick the camper up. They're family-owned, one of the largest in PA, and get very good reviews. They'll provide a full demo, drive-around and walkthrough the day we pick it up.

As my tow vehicle is on the smaller side, the weight of the TT we selected was of primary concern. We actually bought a Jayco Jay Feather Ultra Lite X17Z, which at about 3500 gwvr, is far enough below the 5000 qwvr on my truck to make me feel more comfortable.

Again, thanks a lot for your guidance here. Didn't mean to almost start a riot!

If the RV dealer has a good reputation for installing and setting up TV/trailers go with them.

Also try to get a package deal for everything when you buy the trailer.

In our case we got our car set up by the local towing specialist. In the past 7 years it has been a joy to tow with and has never needed adjusting. They got it set up right the 1st time.

Call a couple of independent tow hitch shops and ask them for a quote and compare it to the dealer's. No difference who does the work as the components should be the same. It will help to get two other shops to recommend the hitch setup so you can compare the parts to be used as well as the labor.

Honestly. You deal with the TT dealer is the best. They install hitches, trans coolers, brake controllers, and setup WDH on a regular basis. Plus it's a one stop install. they can have it all done by the time you have all the papers signed.

****EDIT**** IGNORE THIS! I OWNED THE NEXT GENERATION. TOWING WITH A NON SUPERCHARGED 2002 WILL BE A STRUGGLE IMO. ENTIRELY DIFFERENT TRUCK! SORRY.


I owned a 2005 Frontier. In Canada, it comes equipped with a heavy duty cooling system from the factory, with external trans cooler, and oil cooler (water to oil heat exchanger), it even has a miniture power steering cooler. It also has a shortened 1/2 ton frame from Nissan's "Alpha" platform that underpins the Titan. It is VERY robust, and so is the the powertrain. It tows like a 1/2 ton. Vastly superior and more capable than the ubiquitous Tacoma (owned a 09 & 2010 Tacoma too). The rear frame / axle / suspension is it's trump card over the Tacoma. Better than previous 1/2 ton GM's in this regard, espeically the OEM shocks.

Nissan makes a factory type harness that is plug and play, with the module to control the trailer lights, activate the 12v charging line, and integrate a brake controller. I would go to the dealer for the wiring. On the 2005's it was no picnic to do correctly, it required removing a kick-panel, switching something out. Either way, the harness comes with very good instructions. Less than $200 IIRC. Uhaul will butcher this part, IMO.

As for a hitch, Uhaul sells re-branded hitches, it used to be Valley, but my dad got a Curt from them. The Valley made hitch which fits costs around $200. The bolts thread directly into the (fully boxed) frame, there are welded nuts inside the frame.

Don't be discouraged by those that are unfamiliar with this truck, it punches outside it's weight class. It's sturdy, tough as nails, and overbuilt. Of my 11 vehicles so far, it was probably my favorite to tow with.

Campfire Time wrote:
So the OP asks a question about the cost of installing some components and every jumps on him about whether or not the TV is appropriate. That trailer he's going to tow has a GVWR of 3500#,

well according to Keystone, that trailer has a dry weight of 3560 and GVWR of 4750.
and a few of us consider it intelligent to warn somebody if they are perhaps making a fatal mistake, even if not answering a specific question. why do you have a problem with that?
and he expressed no interest in installing this equipment himself. why are you going off on that tangent?
if you are going to offer "facts" on that units GVWR, you might want to be accurate, I am assuming that Keystone looked up the proper information. :s :s :s
bumpy

Campfire Time wrote:
So the OP asks a question about the cost of installing some components and every jumps on him about whether or not the TV is appropriate. That trailer he's going to tow has a GVWR of 3500#, he's not towing long distance, or in mountains. Next thing someone will try and convince him he needs a 3/4 ton PU to tow that little trailer. :S

I don't think anyone has yet posted that his Frontier WILL NOT TOW it. However I have seen quite a few posts (myself included) that are simply recommending to THINK about re-allocating that $1000+ he/she might be spending on a new hitch setup for a more capable pickup that might offer a little more enjoyment while towing.

Seriously.. have you ever towed with a Frontier? I did and while it towed my little boat just fine it wasn't an enjoyable experience and that was with just me in the driver seat!

Danpaine wrote:
Hi, Folks. I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier V6 4x4, which I'm going to have rigged for towing by the dealer who's selling me a TT (the TT is the proper weight, gvwr, etc. for the TV, so no concerns there). Currently, the truck has no towing gear installed whatsoever.

What is a fair, average cost to set it up properly, with the hitch, receiver, electric, anti-sway, etc? I've been driving a motorhome for years and know virtually nothing about towing, and don't want to get taken to the cleaners.

Thank you!

Not enough information and too generic

Agree with most of the other comments and add:

Depends on lots of things

First is the trailer size/weight and tongue weight %

Second is the condition of the TV, which is on the small size of half ton's

A good WD Hitch system can be over $1,000.00's to used in the hundreds of bucks

Drop shank will be in the $100 to +$200 bucks. This will take a few
trail and error cycles. Again depends...on the height of the receiver
on the TV loaded and tensioned. Plus the trailer tongue height &
weight (that drops the TV's rear end and how much the WD System
distributes weight off and over to both the TV front and a bit back
onto the tongue)...this all depends on the trailer's spec's, actual
weight vs your TV's spec and how you load up them both

Brake controller can be used at under $100 to several hundred bucks
Also, if your TV isn't wired for it, more labor to put in the wiring


Most installers are not well trained and we hear tons of folks coming
here asking...to find that their installer messed up. Can be hours
of work and lots of trailer sales has this tossed in 'free' and if
paying by the hour...can be a big bill or not much if everything slaps
together with little to not adjustments required....it depends...

You need to find these specifications for your TV: GCWR, GVWR, FGAWR,
RGAWR, and the receiver rating (both dead weight and WD)

Then the trailer's actual weight and the actual tongue weight.

Then do the simple math:

GCWR >/= TV + TT + Hitch + all the
stuff loaded into/onto both

. The TV weight should include both the
hitch system and tongue weight

Finally...is the TV's tranny an automatic or manual?

If automatic, then make sure it has the ATF external cooler and if
not, add the biggest you can fit and plumb it in series with the
line from the tranny to the radiator.

Good luck !



This is a visual of how the towing specifications and metrics look like
when you have gathered the information

Might be of help to see where the numbers for the simple math formula
above relate to each other

It is a system and always limited by the weak link in the food chain
down to pavement.

howmuchcanitow

So the OP asks a question about the cost of installing some components and every jumps on him about whether or not the TV is appropriate. That trailer he's going to tow has a GVWR of 3500#, he's not towing long distance, or in mountains. Next thing someone will try and convince him he needs a 3/4 ton PU to tow that little trailer. :S

So none of this stuff is particularly hard to install. Personally I cringe at the notion of paying someone $1k+ to do what I can do myself. If you aren't comfortable with DIY, find a friend who's handy and see how much you can do on your own. And if you do run into a problem on the road, you'll have more knowledge about how things work and where to troubleshoot issues, particularly in the lighting/brake controller wiring.

I'll assume that your truck is within specs and can safely tow the trailer you want. I hope that you did the research YOURSELF and are NOT relying on a RV salesman for information. Things like total tow weight (wet, not dry), tongue weight, available payload are important things to know and double check before you buy. That being said, if you are reasonably handy you can install most of the stuff yourself.

I installed a tow hitch on my old SUV and my sisters minivan. I installed a Curt hitch both times. Chances are that there is a hitch that bolts straight to your vehicle. You can buy one online for a couple hundred and install it yourself or with a friend. Its usually a matter of holding it up, lining up the holes and installing bolts to a set torque. I think my hitch was about $250, my sisters was around the same. Figure a shop will upcharge the hitch and bang you for a couple hours labor... you can save several hundred dollars yourself.

Installing the wiring for the brake controller can be a little more involved. If your vehicle isn't already prewired for it, it might make sense to pay a pro to install that.

Weight distribution hitches are pretty easy to install yourself, so long as you have a tape measure, flat parking lot to take measurements, simple hand tools and a couple hours time. You can easily save a couple hundred doing this yourself.