Forum Discussion

K_Mac's avatar
K_Mac
Explorer
Jan 02, 2018

Wheel and Tire Recommendations:

I've Been saying for too long, "I'm gonna upgrade" well the wait is over I need tires anyway. I drive a '13 F350 SRW 8' 6.7L Upper Stableloads Super Hitch w/ 48" truss, and carry a'13 N.L. 10-2 cdse. Went to the scales and I weigh, Front 5200, Rear 7500 GVW 12,700. That puts me at 800 under Front GAWR and 500 over Rear GAWR, and 1200 over GVWR. This is with water full and packed to the gills' This is not how I'm usually packed, probably 300-400 lbs. extra if not more, I was dropping stuff off on my trip. I've driven Class Trucks, and towed for the last 40 yrs. so I know what weight feels like and where to put it. I've never felt uncomfortable, or unsafe with this set-up, and truck handles weight well. I just don't know rim terminology," back spacing,off set,lug centric, etc.... Can you steer me in the right direction, as to what I need to know for size,other than the obvious 19.5 x........... Tire recommendations and brands welcome also. I mostly stay to paved road, with the occasional dirt or sand trip. Sorry so long winded my searches were frustrating the h ll out of me. Not technology blessed. Thanks in advance, K Mac.:h
  • Ha. OP never came back. Hope he's not stuck in a snow drift out there! Lol
  • While I have a Dodge Ram truck, my load is near identical to yours front/rear axle weights. I tried to convince myself that 285/75-17 Nitto Dura Grapplers. Rated to carry 3970# on Hummer H2 rims (made from forged aluminum by Alcoa) rated at 5,000lbs each was enough to support it all. But I was nervous with the poor shape of the roads I've encountered and that the further I'd get from civilization, the worse they got. Definitely did not feel comfortable at speeds 65mph and higher. (and honestly, a big reason for a camper is so I'm not restricted on max highway speeds like towing has)

    Then I read the report by Buzzcut having a blow out. He lives near me and we drive the same highway system, so I really took it to heart when he narrowly escaped disaster. I first searched online and found Rickson, a manufacturer who makes 19.5 wheels here in the USA. The price was enough to choke me, so I started scouring craigslist and got lucky; some guy out of Nevada had a set and was willing to meet me in South Lake Tahoe. Got my wheels for a very reasonable and fair price, then headed to my local Les Schwab dealer. I trust them as they have a large commercial tire sales business and wanted their advice. They loved my truck camper rig when I brought it over and they recommended TOYO's. I chose the M608Z tire because I occasionally travel dirt roads and I live in hilly snow country. Well, there's no way I can say I don't now feel safe with these on. Wow! The tires squirm a bit until they are broke in, but any heavy lugged tire will do the same I believe. The sing to me at any speed above 40mph as well, but I just pretend I'm a badasz trucker.

    There are a couple things you do need to be aware of if you go this route;
    1. They are a TALL combination. A 2 inch front lift was needed for tire clearance, otherwise there was interference when turning the wheel lock-to-lock.
    2. If you want your spare to be the same, figure another way to mount it because it's likely not to fit under the bed of the truck where the factory puts the spare. Even if you keep the stock spare, if you ever need to change one on the road, where ya gonna put that big boy after you remove it?
    3. They are HEAVY. I'd say at least 50 pounds per wheel/tire combo over the aluminum HUMMER H2 wheels and Nitto tires. I compensated this added weight by dumping my stock spare. The H2 and Nitto wouldn't fit where the spare goes, and I found the factory stock tire to now be past it's prime, age-wise. Besides, these tires, if you damage one, you'll likely have other problems than just a flat tire. Not only are they 14 ply rated, they are deep lugged AND they can be cut for a 2nd tread, there's that much more rubber under the existing tread. Anything pierces that has my attention!
    4. Your speedometer and odometer will be off about 10%. A code change can correct it usually, but may cost a visit to the dealership and a charge to set this up for the taller tires.
    5. Because they are tall, they affect your power curve. Having a Cummins diesel engine, it was fine by me to lower RPM's at freeway speeds. I now turn 1800rpms at 65mph.
    6.This isn't a cheap upgrade. But for me, safety of my family and peace-of-mind for me was worth it. I can take these tires anyplace and not worry about any sort of failure
    7. They suck when the truck is empty and the road is wet. I first discovered this making a left hand turn at a 4 way intersection and my rear tire hit the painted crosswalk. Wheel spin, no traction. I've got an open differential, so there is that, but just mild power and turning causes the tire with the lesser traction to loose grip. I'm too afraid to test them on snow covered roads empty but I did with my camper on. Fine for that as I can lock in 4 wheel drive and she's solid.
    8. They are harsh when the truck is empty. You know you are driving a truck, that's for SURE!

    Hope this helps!
  • I don't know about the newer Ford F350's but my 2005 F350 SD SRW 4x4 crew cab has hub centric wheels. Most aftermarket wheels are lug centric. I am running the Toyo Open Country A/T II tires in a LT285/75R18 size with a rating of 4,080 lbs. per tire. I have these mounted on the factory Ford aluminum rims. I have been happy with this combination hauling both my older Lance 855 camper and my new Northern Lite 811 QC SE.
  • As posted above- Toyos or (what I have been happy with) Nittos.

    Me? The truck in my signature with 285/75-17 Nitto Dura Grapplers. Rated to carry 3970# and I am easily under on RAWR now.

    I do have them mounted on steel OEM wheels.

    Been all over the eastern U.S. and Canadian Maritimes.

    I wore out the first set and bought the same to replace them. Discount Tire Direct .com has good info on many brands with sizes and weight ratings.
  • K Mac. What size wheels and tires do you currently have?

    Things to consider:

    With these newer trucks and all of the tubing and such in the wheel wells for the anti-lock brake systems etc, how much room do you have to safely install larger diameter and width tires? (I know I would like to know in case I ever decide to go to a larger tire.) I have a 2015 F350 XLT, and my manual states “Note: Do not use snow chains on vehicles with 20 inch wheels and tires.” I have the factory optioned LT275/70R18 tires (225 lb per tire / 450 lb per axle higher carrying capacity then the factory standard LT275/65R18 for this model). The factory 20” tires are listed as 0.9” taller and the same width as my 18's. I don't know, but the reason for not using snow chains on 20” tires could possibly be this taller diameter and clearance issues. As you go up in size in 18” tires that have higher carrying capacity, either the diameter and/or width get larger.

    Tires with a different diameter then you currently have will effect your final gear ratio also. F.Y.I., below are web sites you can use to view tire dimensions and the effect on gear ratio that a tire size change might have.

    I too would like to know what the Ford factory wheels are rated at for weight carrying.

    https://tiresize.com/calculator

    https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator

    Hope some of this helps.
  • mkirsch wrote:
    It's not so complicated as all that. You go to the rim dealer's storefront or website, plug your 2013 F350 SRW into the computer, and they show you the rims that will fit.

    Being an SRW, your rims are likely lug-centric. To verify, remove a lug nut. If it is tapered where the nut contacts the rim, it is lug-centric. DRW's are usually hub-centric because the tapers of a lug-centric rim would interfere with each other when dualing up the wheels on the rear.


    IDK about fords, but OE Ram and the GM wheels on the GMT 900s are/were both lug and hub centric.
    Alot of aftermarket wheels are only lug centric so they fit multiple applications with the same lug spacing.
  • So, are you looking to upgrade to 19.5s or keep the light duty 17/18/20s? You didn't say.
    You also don't state what rims you currently have. If base model 17s, finding tires with high load ratings is now next to impossible.
    18s and 20s, there are a plethora of tires int he 3400 to 4000lb load cap range, just pick one.

    Most aftermarket 17/18/20 wheels are rate around 3500lbs per tire. Method NVs are rated 4500 iirc.
    Finding OE rim load ratings is difficult, but one can reasonably assume they're at least rated in the 3500lb + range based on some models weight and available payload.
    My recommendation for strength, other than going to 19.5s, is OE 18s or 20s alloy wheels with some stout tires.
    Been packing 7500lbs plus on the back of SRW trucks with OE wheels for a long time without issue. My rationale is there is NO WAY that a truck mfg would not put a substantial factor of safety on HD pickup wheels. The risk would far outweigh the small financial gain of cheaper wheels.
  • It's not so complicated as all that. You go to the rim dealer's storefront or website, plug your 2013 F350 SRW into the computer, and they show you the rims that will fit.

    Being an SRW, your rims are likely lug-centric. To verify, remove a lug nut. If it is tapered where the nut contacts the rim, it is lug-centric. DRW's are usually hub-centric because the tapers of a lug-centric rim would interfere with each other when dualing up the wheels on the rear.
  • What are your current wheels rated for? If they can handle the load, I agree get those 4080 rated tires or something similar. Didn't care for 19.5's on my old 02 Super Duty. Loss of traction, wouldn't get near sand and had to put in 4X4 to back up my wet driveway sometimes, not to mentions a rough ride unloaded. But they did add that safety margin. Something to think about.
  • If you have 18" wheels you may want to check on the Toyo's as the have a tire that has a 4080lb. rating.