Wheel Bearings

Well, the experts have spoken. EZ lube is a gimmick.
Now let’s talk wdhs. Gimmick?

klutchdust wrote:
My guess is the EZ lube believers also have the siphon pump that you put in the dipstick holder and suck out all the used oil so you do not have to drain the oil pan and also used the JC whitney toilet paper oil filter device.

I sure EZ lube believers also believe in these..



Fuel line magnets to increase their fuel mileage also.. :S

I do have a siphon pump. Very handy in different situations.
But you probably know it all and I’m sure you’d find fault with it.
Is there anything you actually do like?

My guess is the EZ lube believers also have the siphon pump that you put in the dipstick holder and suck out all the used oil so you do not have to drain the oil pan and also used the JC whitney toilet paper oil filter device.

aftermath wrote:
I purchased a used Airstream and took it in to the local dealer to have them check the bearings and the brakes. I have done this on my 55 Chevy, 64 VW, 62 Chevy and 64 Ford PU. Not really all that complicated but I had no experience with the electric brakes on the trailer. Remember this is a dealer who seldom worries about charging high prices. I asked them how often I should have the bearings repacked and he said, every 10K miles. More often, unless you consider this a hobby isn't really needed.
As far as EZ Lube axles, I am not a fan. I think these are the improved version of Bearing Buddies that were designed for boat trailers. Do you back you trailer into the lake? No worries, just use our Bearing Buddies and you will be fine. We installed a zert to pack more grease so you will never run dry! IF, and I really mean If, you follow the recommendations and guidelines with your EZ lube setup you should be fine. I think more people than you think, just pack the bearings full and feel good about things.

EZ lube setup was an improvement over bearing buddies which was originally designed for use on boat trailers where the entire wheel along with brakes and bearings get submerged in water immediately after a drive on the road.

The sudden cold water dunk at the boat ramp causes the heated air, grease and even bearings inside the hub to contract, the contraction then pulls water from the river or lake right into the bearing space.. That water then degrades the grease and eventually rusts and damages the bearing surfaces..

The idea is if you fill the entire cavity with grease, then you arrest most of the reasons why water can get pulled in from the river or lake.

Bearing buddy only worked up to the point the grease seal could no longer hold back the grease and the extra grease ended up on your brakes.

EZ Lubes were simply adopted by trailer manufacturers for non boat trailer uses because of the appeal to the RV masses of "never ever needing to remove the drums".

RVs since you are not submerging the wheel and bearings in cold water bath are more about the marketing aspect to the lazy or less knowledgeable folks.

It is a sales gimmick on RVs.

The reality is you STILL have to eventually pull the drums to INSPECT the brake shoes and all moving parts inside the drum periodically. EZ lube does not negate the need to inspect and replace wear items like brake shoes or drums.

As I have mentioned I have a TT with standard axles and a flatbed with EZ Lube.. I personally have a hate for EZ Lube when it comes time to remove the drum.

In PA we have to take trailers of 3,001 lbs GVWR and higher in for a annual safety inspection. Inspection mechanic is required to pull one drum on each side at the inspection.

One yr I had a mechanic pump two cartridges of grease into the EZ lubes over two axles.. While I appreciated his thoughtfulness, I was in hate mode the next yr when I pulled the drums to check things before I took it in for inspection.. Took a dozen gloves and a complete roll of shop towels to clean out the excess grease and to prevent the unneeded grease from getting on the brakes or drum surfaces.

I like to be proactive and repair things before I drag a trailer for a 40 mile round trip for inspection.. Hate having a rejection then have to drag back home, fix and return..

Bearings properly hand packed only takes at most 1-2 ounces of grease per bearing, not the half cartridge of EZ lube per wheel..

I purchased a used Airstream and took it in to the local dealer to have them check the bearings and the brakes. I have done this on my 55 Chevy, 64 VW, 62 Chevy and 64 Ford PU. Not really all that complicated but I had no experience with the electric brakes on the trailer. Remember this is a dealer who seldom worries about charging high prices. I asked them how often I should have the bearings repacked and he said, every 10K miles. More often, unless you consider this a hobby isn't really needed.
As far as EZ Lube axles, I am not a fan. I think these are the improved version of Bearing Buddies that were designed for boat trailers. Do you back you trailer into the lake? No worries, just use our Bearing Buddies and you will be fine. We installed a zert to pack more grease so you will never run dry! IF, and I really mean If, you follow the recommendations and guidelines with your EZ lube setup you should be fine. I think more people than you think, just pack the bearings full and feel good about things.

As a side note, types of grease and mixing different thickener types is not just a RV thing, it affects pretty much anything the requires thickened lubrication..

Ironically found a good discussion on a non RV forum that started about the time this thread was started..

HERE

opnspaces wrote:


...Hooked up my brand new TT at the dealer with my brand new WD hitch and brand new ball with no grease. Towed trailer 30 miles home. When I unhitched the ball was galled. I added grease and 17 years later I have not had any more galling and I'm still using the same ball...

Yep, that will do it.

Only takes a very light "film" of grease and does not need repeated unless you wiped off the grease from ball and hitch socket.

I used maybe about the size of a small pea, smear it around the ball and call it good for many many yrs.. The grease spreads around the ball and hitch socket and stays there for yrs unless you clean it off.

The light grease film gives just enough lubrication to reduce metal to metal friction contact which reduces galling or wear.

No need to reapply and reapply gobs of grease each time you use it which I think was Klutches gripe and to that, he does have a point..

But that is a hole nuther can - o - worms hot button topic subject on this forum :E

opnspaces wrote:
Gotta say Klutchdust you missed on this one.

I don't grease the ball on my popup, never have. One night I saw the lights flicker when I hit bumps in the road. Turns out the ground wire in the 4 pin was broken. Fixed the ground wire and the flickering was gone. So I will agree with you on no grease on he ball on a lightweight trailer. But disagree with grounding the trailer through the ball.

Hooked up my brand new TT at the dealer with my brand new WD hitch and brand new ball with no grease. Towed trailer 30 miles home. When I unhitched the ball was galled. I added grease and 17 years later I have not had any more galling and I'm still using the same ball.

1996 and 2001 Suburban (yes I like and drive older vehicles). Doors start to make screeching and popping noise when opening and closing. Some careful application of white grease at the hinges and limiter and the noise is gone.

1977 Bronco, with doors you have to use your thumb to push button in to open the door. I have no problem with it but the wife and kids struggle to open the door. I disassembled the door latch, cleaned it up and white greased it making sure to not get grease anywhere that would transfer to the latch pin. 8 years later the door is still easy for women with small hands to open.

1996 Suburban, I pull the hood release lever and nothing happens. I have to have a kid pull and hold the lever while I lift the hood. This gets old after a while. So rather than spending $30 on a new latch I clean the old one and apply some white grease. Hood latch was still working 5 years later when I sold the truck.

I do have to agree with you on the greasy pants from the greasy ball though. That is annoying, but you learn pretty quickly how to avoid it. I also do like Gdetrailer and use a plastic grocery store bag to tie over the hitch at camp and the problem is solved.

What is it about using grease on moving parts that you are opposed to?

Nothing when done properly. Not a lot of that based on the comments lately.

Gotta say Klutchdust you missed on this one.

I don't grease the ball on my popup, never have. One night I saw the lights flicker when I hit bumps in the road. Turns out the ground wire in the 4 pin was broken. Fixed the ground wire and the flickering was gone. So I will agree with you on no grease on he ball on a lightweight trailer. But disagree with grounding the trailer through the ball.

Hooked up my brand new TT at the dealer with my brand new WD hitch and brand new ball with no grease. Towed trailer 30 miles home. When I unhitched the ball was galled. I added grease and 17 years later I have not had any more galling and I'm still using the same ball.

1996 and 2001 Suburban (yes I like and drive older vehicles). Doors start to make screeching and popping noise when opening and closing. Some careful application of white grease at the hinges and limiter and the noise is gone.

1977 Bronco, with doors you have to use your thumb to push button in to open the door. I have no problem with it but the wife and kids struggle to open the door. I disassembled the door latch, cleaned it up and white greased it making sure to not get grease anywhere that would transfer to the latch pin. 8 years later the door is still easy for women with small hands to open.

1996 Suburban, I pull the hood release lever and nothing happens. I have to have a kid pull and hold the lever while I lift the hood. This gets old after a while. So rather than spending $30 on a new latch I clean the old one and apply some white grease. Hood latch was still working 5 years later when I sold the truck.

I do have to agree with you on the greasy pants from the greasy ball though. That is annoying, but you learn pretty quickly how to avoid it. I also do like Gdetrailer and use a plastic grocery store bag to tie over the hitch at camp and the problem is solved.

What is it about using grease on moving parts that you are opposed to?