Forum Discussion

rastaman33609's avatar
Feb 01, 2014

Why cant I use ratchet straps for tie downs????

I am aware that the spring loaded tiedowns are the most desirable...
however having been in the car hauling business I have an abundance of ratchet straps both 2" and 1" ..GOOD quality. Is there any reason why I could not use these...they could be made snug enough to still give under strain,,....
The frugal part of me just cringes to spend the 100's of $$$ for the right thing..
  • bobndot nailed it.

    Straps are fine as long as you don't over tighten them.
  • DutchmenSport wrote:
    A truck camper is considered "cargo" in the back of a truck camper. I suppose if you can use a strap to tie down a refrigerator, a stove, a mattress, furniture, or any number of items considered "cargo", why not a truck camper too?

    Personally, I take a little pride in my TT, and I'm sure you also take some pride in your truck camper. So, if nothing else, do you want your truck and camper looking like it was rigged by the three stooges? or do you want it to look like it's got some "class" to it! Go the professional route, and be proud! Not cheep and hillbilly!


    I also had to laugh at this, great answer.

    Paul
  • I don't see any reason not to use good quality straps if you have a light weight, cheap TC. We had a 25 year old Sunline that cost $500 and used straps (and homemade anchor attachment from frame) for 2 years before we upgraded to a new TC and Torklift. We only took 3-4 trips, none off road, and never had any damage from the anchor straps pulling on the eye bolts. But our TC only weighed 1,700 lbs. loaded...

    That said I do like the "proper" system we have now b/c it looks better - and for the darn cost it better look like 5 months of camper payments!
  • As the camper rocks from side to side a lot of stress is placed on the tie-down anchors (on the camper)
    The straps don't have any give like a spring loaded tie-down . A strap can damage the anchor. I have seen tight tie-downs do a lot of damage to a campers anchors when made too tight.
    If you use a strap and a spring then you have to make sure the hook will stay in place and not fall off when it flexes.
    If you look on the Tork-lift website, they explain how to make the tie-downs just snug.
  • DutchmenSport wrote:


    Personally, I take a little pride in my TT, and I'm sure you also take some pride in your truck camper. So, if nothing else, do you want your truck and camper looking like it was rigged by the three stooges? or do you want it to look like it's got some "class" to it! Go the professional route, and be proud! Not cheep and hillbilly!


    Had to laugh at this. The pro route is straps, just watch the trucks passing. We are the ones not pro. Cheep and hillbilly, har har.
  • Providing that the tanks aren't under the floor just bolt down the camper through the floor into PU framing. Worked for me the 25 years I owned TCs. I used 5/8" dia bolts. I drove my PU in places where there were no roads.
  • A truck camper is considered "cargo" in the back of a truck camper. I suppose if you can use a strap to tie down a refrigerator, a stove, a mattress, furniture, or any number of items considered "cargo", why not a truck camper too?

    Personally, I take a little pride in my TT, and I'm sure you also take some pride in your truck camper. So, if nothing else, do you want your truck and camper looking like it was rigged by the three stooges? or do you want it to look like it's got some "class" to it! Go the professional route, and be proud! Not cheep and hillbilly!
  • You can use anything you want to, the reason for the spring loaded tie downs is that there is some give whenever you go thru a gutter at an angle, over a bump, twist in and out of a driveway, or any other unforseen stress that may make one side need some give and (NOT) tear out one of the tie down eyes from the camper. But this is just my opinion and you do not know me from anywhere.