Obviously, I've been thinking about zincs.During my replacement of the heating element and subsequent questions about water heater zinc anoides, I got to wondering. See other post if you need more info.http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27280520.cfmThe rod is sitting with power around them as the water is heated. Fresh water is a poor electrolyte, but still an electrolyte. The heating rod is a dead short. Wonder if a ground to earth from the tank metal shell to a ground rod would matter? Don't plan to do it, but if somebody was in one spot for a long time, might make a difference. Just thinking.Theories???

I need to go back to my science class to research this one....

Instead of paraphrasing I will just give you a link that explains it all......LINKAluminum type rods last the longest BUT can get a build up of scaling which can make them difficult to remove.Magnesium type rods deteriorate quicker BUT can react to microbes in water and cause a sulfur like smellSuburban Brand have a steel tank that is glass-lined and therefore need an anode rod to help keep tank wall from deterioratingAtwood Brand use an aluminum alloy tank so no anode rod neededYour water heater IS grounded otherwise the propane & electric systems would not function. Further grounding of tank will not stop the 'galvanic' action going on inside tank between tank wall and the water

OB, that link won't totally load for me, maybe it's just me.As stated, the tank and it's electrical bits are grounded but that wouldn't effect the reaction with the anode rod. The anode is sacrificial, the reaction is based on the free ions in the water of the tank from mineral in the water and the material of the anode. The anode rod would undergo this reaction if it was placed in a glass jar with water (just less so).

Link does not work for me either, it might be a problem with Rheem's server ... it appears to be a huge PDF documentGoogle cached version

Link works for me......:HAnyway here is a clip with pertinent info:TECHNICAL SERVICE DEPARTMENTAnode Rods, Cathodic Protection and the Porcelain (glass) LiningCorrosion can be defined as the destructive attack of a metal by an electrochemical reaction with its environment. Steel exposed to moisture and oxygen will rust and corrode. Corrosion is defined as the ‘eating away’ of metal by electrochemical means. There are four main factors affecting water’s ability to corrode:1. Acidity - Water is made acidic by naturally occurring dissolved gases such as carbon dioxide.2. Temperature - Higher temperatures speeds up the corrosive process.3. Amount of dissolved oxygen - Free oxygen dissolved in the water promotes corrosion.4. Electrical conductivity - The more dissolved mineral solids in the water, the greater its ability to carry electrical current. When dissimilar metals are in the water:•Electrical current flows between metals•One of the metals gradually corrodes faster than the otherDissimilar metals are present in the interior steel tank surfaces of all water heaters in several forms such as the drain nipples, heating elements, inlet and outlet nipples, and immersion thermostats. These metals, and others present in the water itself, combined with the oxygen content of the water and heat, establish an environment conducive to corrosion. The dissimilar metals create a corrosion cell that is enhanced by the conductivity of the water. The anode is installed to overcome (neutralize) the corrosive cell.

Why Do Water Heater Anoides Deteriorate So FAST?

Kittykath
Explorer II
Mar 20, 2014
The smell is being produced within the camper. The water at the spigot is just fine, so this is where we have to fill coffee pots, etc. The camper came with a whole system water filtration and we attached another water filter at the inlet connection. I suspect something funky is going on in the water heater.
myredracer
Explorer II
Mar 19, 2014
If your anode is corroding fast, it's doing what it's supposed to do. If you are having a rotten egg smell, it may not be the water heater causing it. If you are connected to a well water system, the source could possibly be the groundwater. A water softener can be another source. We had it in a previous deep well over 300' deep. After several years, it went away on it's own. You can use the appropriate filter for treatment.

Causes of the smell and treatment discussed here:
causes of sulfur smell and more info. here: Hydrogen sulfide info.

Hydrogen sulfide can attack a magnesium anode. High pH (alkaline) can also. Info. here: Water heater anode corrosion Don't know if low pH is hard on an anode, but I believe low pH (acidic) can promote hydrogen sulfide in a HWT.

If you are staying in the same location most or all of the time, I would take a water sample to a lab and get it tested so you will know if there are any issues with quality. You can't take a sample to a lab for hydrogen sulfide though because it is volatile and will be gone by the time the lab gets it. I don't know if there is a simple on-site test for it, but the smell is unmistakable. You need to get sample bottles from a lab first.

Around here, our city water is very soft since it is supplied by a dam. The water is also buffered to a neutral pH of 7.0. Our "dug" well water at home is on the hard side due to calcium.
westend
Explorer
Mar 19, 2014
Kittykath wrote:
Crossing my fingers this year that we don't have another summer of rotten egg smelling water. We're parked in the same spot all season with the same water supply. Last year our camper was new in July, and by October the magnesium anode rod was about 70% gone. I'm not sure what was in the water heater of our previous camper, but we never had the horrible water smell. Very drinkable water actually. This year we're trying the aluminum anode rod suggestion. A new camper should smell like a new camper and not like garbage.
Have you thought about filtration or a water softener? It sounds like you may be a good candidate.
Kittykath
Explorer II
Mar 19, 2014
Crossing my fingers this year that we don't have another summer of rotten egg smelling water. We're parked in the same spot all season with the same water supply. Last year our camper was new in July, and by October the magnesium anode rod was about 70% gone. I'm not sure what was in the water heater of our previous camper, but we never had the horrible water smell. Very drinkable water actually. This year we're trying the aluminum anode rod suggestion. A new camper should smell like a new camper and not like garbage.
Ole_Man_Dan
Explorer
Mar 19, 2014
Johno02 wrote:
Probably due to quality of water supply. Are you on a city water supply?? They are usually better regulated as to acidity and chemicals. My Anode rod looks good each year when I take it out, If it is corroded, I usually wire-brush it and make sure its not eaten through anywhere. Only time I replaced one was when I lost it during the winter.

I replace my Anode Rod every couple of years. Low Cost.
In the fall when I Winterize, I check it and replace if necessary.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Oct 08, 2013
mlts22 wrote:
The anode rod on my rig was 99% intact when I yanked it out, although it had a coating of white calcium on it that had to be scraped off. Since my rig has sat for most of the year (with me coming by to check things every month or so), I'll probably just reuse the same rod after rinsing it off.

Aluminum type anode rods can get a build up on them......just scrape it off and reuse.
No need to replace an anode rod until 75% of material has deteriorated
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Oct 08, 2013
CavemanCharlie wrote:
The anode rod in my first home water heater lasted the life of the heater which was 40 years.

Good water and an anode rod that was probably 3' long
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Oct 08, 2013
rgolding wrote:

My question was/is "Do you think a ground to earth rod connected to the frame of the hot water heater would have an impact on the service you would get out of a rod?" I don't have this type of need, but a person staying in one place for a long time, might benefit from a ground rod connected directly to a mounting bolt of a heater. Or actually it might increase the deterioration of the rod. Just thinking and looking for answers to a theory.

NO....additional grounding will not make a difference......the water heater is already grounded. Otherwise none of the controls would work.

Water quality is what affects the longevity of an anode rod.
Arizona_Kid
Explorer
Oct 08, 2013
I think the only difference, except for the Anode rod, is Suburban makes more sizes.
They both seem to work equally well, but I have read that the Suburban heats a little faster and keeps the water hotter a little longer.
Huntindog
Explorer
Oct 07, 2013
mileshuff wrote:
Arizona Kid wrote:
Did you have a hot water heater that uses an anode rod? Atwoods do not need one.

I believe my old trailer had an Atwood as does my new 5'er. So without the need of an anode rod does that make the Atwood a better choice over suburban?

Having had both, I would prefer the Atwood as it doesn't need one, but it's not a big enough deal to make it a priority when choosing a TT....Other things are far more important.