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zonanavystar's avatar
zonanavystar
Explorer
Sep 30, 2014

winter camping trip

Hey all, I'm in the initial planning stages of a first time winter camping trip. Here is what I'm planning: Early Jan ish, 5-7 nights in Flagstaff, AZ. Camping at a mix of established campgrounds (water/electric/sewer available) and "boondocking" remote camping. The remote camping will depend on the weather (no 4' snow storms, etc). However, I'm also thinking at least 2 nights in a hotel room at a local place in Flagstaff.

I know I can keep the plumbing from freezing by keeping the camper warm (2000 Lance 825 by the way), with either the furnace or an electric space heater when shore power is available, but how does one keep the camper from freezing and damaging plumbing those nights when its just sitting in the hotel parking lot overnight? Or for that matter during the day when we're skiing?

Any help and advice appreciated. Thank you!
  • You don't, unless you have heated holding tanks and the abilty keep the electric needed to keep them turned on...
  • I face this situation when i am on my way to the warm, sunny south from frozen Minnesota in January, and on the return trip in March.

    Your choices are: leave the lp furnace running all the time, (make sure you have enough battery power, or a generator), park where you have access to 110 volt power and run the space heater, or witerize the camper each time you stop heating it.

    Good luck, Joel
  • I was in the same boat and installed one of these, no power is required and they work great


    http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57331-Olympian-Wave-3-Catalytic/dp/B000BUV1RK

    then later I also purchased a larger Cat 6 because my Class B is not so well insulated. That would depend on how well insulated your camper is. At that time of year I would go with the cat 6 wave heater you can always turn it down if its too warm

    I also installed a solar panel on my roof and that's the best thing I have done for my camper...not tied to any campgrounds anymore.
  • a couple of other things you can do. Fiberglass batts behind every access door to insulate the compartments. Drain the outside shower lines. 1" thick closed cell foam over every window and skylight to hold the heat in and cold out. If is going to be in the zero range I drain the water tank and put a gallon of anti freeze in the black and grey tanks and carry multiple 3.5 gallon water containers inside the TC for drinking, dishes, flushing and washing up.
  • X2 . Leave the furnace on and pack it with extra insulation.

    If the 825 is like the 845, You will notice that the 825 furnace does a naturally good job of placing heat under the stove , kitchen sink, and all the way back under the bathroom sink.
    ***test the area by using a digital remote thermometer, take readings. See where you need some extra insulation help.

    Wrap the propane regulator with some type of insulation, keep it from freezing....no gas flow...no heat.

    Keep an eye on any water lines that are routed next to an outside wall. That includes those lines under the stove and possibly under your furnace that touch the horizontal wood that hangs over the trucks bedrail. I use pipe insulation and Reflectix foil

    If you choose to drain things by the low point drains and blow some compressed thru it , be sure to clear the toilet line and water pump.

    When I do it this way, I use water jugs like buzzcut suggests and use windshield washer fluid to flush the toilet and fill the sink traps.
    Always carry a hair dryer to defrost a valve if you have to.

    Bob