Winterization Air vs Chemicals...... Your 2 cents please

I always used AF until switching to air two years ago. The first winter (mild) was fine. The second, (cold) the pressure wouldn't build in the spring. After a little search, I found a plastic sediment filter between the pump and tank that had frozen and cracked. Now I blow out and then remove the filter when I remove the anode from the water heater in the fall. JMTC.

I can’t speak for him, but
It is the air flow(volume) that moves the water long not pressure… you could as effectively winterize using a shop-vac as long as the backflow preventer is held open… that is a concern using small low volume high pressure compressors…

SprinklerMan wrote:
I am an irrigation contractor , I use air , 100 cfm compressor , open everything at once , done in a couple minutes .

cfm or psi????

I've always blown out the lines and put AF in traps. (Windshield washer AF will do for traps, but not for potable water lines.) Only problem I ever had is the year I forgot to blow out the kitchen spray head -- had to replace it due to freezing and cracking.

Wayne

We use AF. It's piece of mind and cheap. We camp into the frosty months here in East Tennessee so I might winterize, de-winterize and re-winterize 3, 4, maybe 5 times toward the end of the season. I can blow the lines out and pump AF in 10 minutes. Too easy. I keep a gallon milk jug of water with a little bleach in it and pump it through the lines before we leave and the lines are clean and smell nice and fresh when we get to the campground.

We are in Alberta, Canada and it gets very cold in the winter so we use both air and antifreeze but some just use antifreeze. Just do not want to take the chance that some water may be in a low section of the water line and freeze causing many dollars for repair. We make sure outside shower and all water outlets are cleared of water and have never had a problem even at 40 below. When you see pink coming out of the tap you are good, usually 2 people to do the job right.
Good luck

I am an irrigation contractor , I use air , 100 cfm compressor , open everything at once , done in a couple minutes .

I blow mine out add AF and blow it out again add AF to the drains…

People will argue this forever and never settle it… but be sure of one thing, no one that has recommended air only has also offered to guarantee their advice… and while we hear these same silly arguments every fall, every spring we read a lot of post about how to fix the cracked toilets and fix a leaking water line…

In the end it’s your decision, your RV, and your nickel… spent it wisely…



one more thing I have never seen a waterline installed in a RV that would completely drain to one end or the other, or to the low point drains… they always go over or around things leaving plenty of low spots in them…

I use the air method. I like not having to get the AF out of the lines and I have done it more than once each year when ever we get a chance to extend our season.

sgrizzle wrote:
is there a "connector" to go from the air hose to the "water" hose connection?

Blow out plugs are available at any RV dealer in the north and Walmart sells one made by Camco. I live in Northern Wisconsin where winter temps of 25 below zero are not uncommon. Sometimes we get stretches where it does not get above 0 for several days at a time.
I use the air method and have never had a problem. Keystones owners manual says either method is acceptable. If you have a black tank flush make sure you flush the water out with either air or antifreeze as that is also "freezeable", as well as any outdoor water lines such as shower or kitchen. As for the water pump Keystones manual says to drain the fresh water tank and then run the pump for thirty seconds to clear out any remaining water in it. Go with whatever method makes you comfortable. Do it propely and you will be fine.