Winterizing question
First winter with the travel trailer (radiance 28 quad bunk) and I thought I read how to clear the lines. This was my order of processes: 1) Run the water out of faucets until water stopped coming o...
Forum Discussion
Here are some tips:
Two methods of winterizing that are commonly employed -
1. blowing out the lines
2. installing anti-freeze
Rarely does anybody blow out the lines and add antifreeze.
Blowing out the lines:
Put water heater in bypass, drain water heater.
Open all your lowpoint drain fittings. On most pull behinds this consists of one drain for the fresh water holding tank and two fittings towards the front end of the camper. The two side by side fittings will be one each for hot and cold. At no time should you turn your water pump on. Never run your water pump without water. It can overheat and be damaged.
When all lowpoint drains quit draining, replace the caps. Ensure all faucet are closed. Screw an air fitting into the city water connection. Using a small pump (I use to use a 12v car tire pump) air the lines up to 50 psi or less. Open the hot water faucet furthest away from the air pump. Water will be forced out ot the water line until all the air pressure is expended. Pump the lines back up to 50psi or so. Open the furthest water line again. Keep doing this until no more water comes out of the faucet. Repeat these steps for the cold water line. Repeat the whole process for each faucet in the camper, working your way back toward the inlet. When no more water can be blown out of any faucet, you are "winterized". Remember to pour about a cup of antifreeze down every drain and into the bowl of the toilet. When spring arrives, fill your fresh water tank and add half a cup of bleach. Using the water pump, pump this sanitized water throughout the camper. Drain the fresh water tank and rinse it out. Refill the water tank. You are now "de winterized". Remeber to unbypass your water heater and reinstall the plug. Fill it with fresh water and burp it.
Method 2 - using antifreeze. Bypass and drain the water heater. Drain the fresh water tank. Switch valve on water pump over to pick up tube. Place pickup tube in jug of antifreeze. Turn on pump. Open cold water valve furthest away from pump. Let run until solid pink comes out of faucet. Open hot water valve, run until solid pink comes out. Repeat at each faucet, working your way back to the pump. Keep an eye on your jug so it doesn't run out. Pour a cup or so of antifreeze into each drain and the toilet. You are winterized. Come spring, fill your fresh water tank and add half a cup of bleach. Run this water through all your lines until they run clear. Drain and rinse the tank, then refill with fresh water. Run some water through the lines to remove all bleach odor. Return the water heater to service.
RV antifreeze will not cause your lines to smell or taste funny, and you need to sanitize your lines every season before use anyway.
Using the first method, I never needed more than a gallon of antifreeze in any of my campers. Using the second method, I've never needed more than two gallons. At a dollar per gallon, that's pretty cheap insurance.
Two methods of winterizing that are commonly employed -
1. blowing out the lines
2. installing anti-freeze
Rarely does anybody blow out the lines and add antifreeze.
Blowing out the lines:
Put water heater in bypass, drain water heater.
Open all your lowpoint drain fittings. On most pull behinds this consists of one drain for the fresh water holding tank and two fittings towards the front end of the camper. The two side by side fittings will be one each for hot and cold. At no time should you turn your water pump on. Never run your water pump without water. It can overheat and be damaged.
When all lowpoint drains quit draining, replace the caps. Ensure all faucet are closed. Screw an air fitting into the city water connection. Using a small pump (I use to use a 12v car tire pump) air the lines up to 50 psi or less. Open the hot water faucet furthest away from the air pump. Water will be forced out ot the water line until all the air pressure is expended. Pump the lines back up to 50psi or so. Open the furthest water line again. Keep doing this until no more water comes out of the faucet. Repeat these steps for the cold water line. Repeat the whole process for each faucet in the camper, working your way back toward the inlet. When no more water can be blown out of any faucet, you are "winterized". Remember to pour about a cup of antifreeze down every drain and into the bowl of the toilet. When spring arrives, fill your fresh water tank and add half a cup of bleach. Using the water pump, pump this sanitized water throughout the camper. Drain the fresh water tank and rinse it out. Refill the water tank. You are now "de winterized". Remeber to unbypass your water heater and reinstall the plug. Fill it with fresh water and burp it.
Method 2 - using antifreeze. Bypass and drain the water heater. Drain the fresh water tank. Switch valve on water pump over to pick up tube. Place pickup tube in jug of antifreeze. Turn on pump. Open cold water valve furthest away from pump. Let run until solid pink comes out of faucet. Open hot water valve, run until solid pink comes out. Repeat at each faucet, working your way back to the pump. Keep an eye on your jug so it doesn't run out. Pour a cup or so of antifreeze into each drain and the toilet. You are winterized. Come spring, fill your fresh water tank and add half a cup of bleach. Run this water through all your lines until they run clear. Drain and rinse the tank, then refill with fresh water. Run some water through the lines to remove all bleach odor. Return the water heater to service.
RV antifreeze will not cause your lines to smell or taste funny, and you need to sanitize your lines every season before use anyway.
Using the first method, I never needed more than a gallon of antifreeze in any of my campers. Using the second method, I've never needed more than two gallons. At a dollar per gallon, that's pretty cheap insurance.
