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Jayco517's avatar
Jayco517
Explorer
Aug 11, 2014

Wires are MELTING!!!!

We have 2010 Jayco 32BHDS Travel Trailer, bought it new from a dealer in the fall of 2009. No problems until last year. We returned to our campsite after a day at the local amusement park to find no power on our site. Our TT had tripped the breaker on the campground pedestal. We flipped the switch back on and it ran for about a minute before tripping again. It was late so we decided to just leave the electricity off and deal with it in the morning. Called a mobile tech out and he stated that it looked like a wire had come loose in travel in the main power supply and arched inside the metal junction box. He fixed up the wiring put on new wire nuts. We ran the electric water heater and A/C for about 6 hours and started to smell burning plastic. :E Turned off the water heater and a few minutes later the breaker tripped on the pedestal again and would not turn back on. Called the tech out again and he said the original issue caused a problem with the transducer in the A/C unit and it was pulling to much power. He replaced the A/C unit with a new one we purchased and picked up from CW, a put new wire nuts on AGAIN. All was well for the remainder of the trip, about 4 days. We used the TT for hunting season but did not use the A/C or Electric HW and of course had no issues.

Just used the TT for the first time this season over the weekend. Got to the CG and about 30 minutes after turning on the Electric water heater and A/C we smelled the burning plastic. :M Sure enough the twist nut was melting. Turned off both the water heater and A/C. Next day turned on just the fan and immediately smelled burning plastic. The wires were heating up using the microwave too. Urghhhh!! What is going on with the electrical system and why aren't we blowing a fuse or tripping breakers before the wires start melting and smoking?!?!?
  • Does your water heater have an electric element? Locate the make and model? It is normally on the outside water heater access panel.
    You should not be operating the 120 volt water heater element and AC unit at the same time.
    Look at your 120 volt circuit breakers. They should be marked as to what amperage.
    Disconnect from shore power, remove cover to the 120 volt circuit breakers. Look in the back of the panel for the buss works that has the white (neutral) wires connected. Remove them one at a time, look for any signs of melted insulation or burnt wires clean the copper apply a coating of electrical grease, available at most hardware stores, re connect each wire.
    Inspect each connection on the circuit breakers. clean and coat each wire with electrical grease.
    Look closely at the male cord body on the shore power cord. Look for any signs of burnt connector pins or insulation.
  • nomad297 wrote:
    Check your voltage at the pedestal and make sure it is no lower than 108.

    Bruce
    Also, check voltages with stuff running. That will cause a drop in voltage.

    Get yourself an EMS. Progressive Industries and Surgegard are two of them. Premium ones are Franks Autoformer and Hughs Autoformer.
  • Check your voltage at the pedestal and make sure it is no lower than 108.

    Bruce
  • Jayco517 wrote:
    What is an EMS??


    It is a surge protector with voltage protection.

    Bruce
  • Hi Bud! Thanks for the welcome..

    The electric service is 30 amp but I am not sure on the rest of the questions. I know there are a bunch of fuses and I believe four breakers inside the panel, though what they are all for I am not sure. I will get some more information when I get home from work today and post some more specifics.
  • Welcome to RV.net!
    Your system is being overloaded some how.
    What size is the electrical service? 30 or 50 amp?
    Does the 120 volt panel have a main breaker?
    What is the make and model of the electrical power distribution panel?