WISDOM OF A HITCH EXTENSTION

Bumpyroad wrote:
seems to me that the longer the distance from ball to axle, the easier it is to back up and the trailer is less squirrely. a short boat trailer or U haul is difficult.
bumpy

I have a small 12 alm. Boat and that is the hardest thing to back up. I feel I can almost drop my rv on a dime the first time out, but the boat and especially the boat trailer alone it is a zig zag world.

seems to me that the longer the distance from ball to axle, the easier it is to back up and the trailer is less squirrely. a short boat trailer or U haul is difficult.
bumpy

The only hitch extension I would use is Torklift superhitch. Remember any extension will also make it harder to back up, a change of direction takes more distance.

Dragonfly wrote:
They will probably tell me the same thing if for no other reason than liability.

I think it is mainly a CYA type of situation. I think I can remember several of these assorted receivers/tow bars/etc. with more than one set of mounting holes. and if you are shortening the bar that should be stronger, shouldn't it?
bumpy

The 16 inch seems to be working fine. Also, although the 14 inch would work when the truck and trailer are lined up straight, it looks like any angle between the two lengthens to distance needed to drop the tailgate. So, happy accident, that the 16 gives me enough wiggle room to be OK if I have to angle my trailer in somewhere and want the tailgate down. Most everyone I talked with warned against moving the pin hole by drilling a new one but you are right, I probably should talk to the the manufacturers. They will probably tell me the same thing if for no other reason than liability.

How about a call to Curt and see if you could Drill the 2 inch shank with a new 5/8 inch hole to give you your 14 inch,(using the 16 inch version) or 14.5 for a little wiggle room without compromising the strength of the hitch. everyone I have seen I can slide the hitch into the receiver and usually have a few inches either way from where my locking pin actually fits.

just throwing the Idea out, but if Curt or Reese or who ever says no, don't even think about it, if they say yes, any Machine shop can punch it out for you in a few minutes.

(edited for clarity )

To conclude my post about pushing my 19ft Airstream back enough to drop my tailgate. I thought I had it solved with a 13 ¼ inch (pin hole to middle of ball) hitch. After turning my jack sideways I was very frustrated to see that I was A FEW FRACTIONS OF AN INCH SHORT of being able to drop the tailgate!

By the way, at first the ride seemed to have just a little more pull and bounce but when I saw that I was just at or below level, I turned the ball mount over and raised it ¾ of an inch and I was back to the smooth, no sway or bounce ride I had with the shorter ball mount.

Now, I find that the next size up in a ball mount which I can find (with out a huge rise or drop) is 16 inches. The 13 ¼ inch length worked well. Ideally I would like a 14 inch length but 16 worries me.

The only solution I see is this 14" "raw" ball mount bar from e-trailer, to which I would have to weld a ball mount platform. I wonder about its capacity but, in that it is solid steel I would think that it would handle my 4,800 lb max Airstream with a 550 lb hitch weight.

Any thoughts? Here is the raw bar. http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Accessories/Curt/D31.html

The farther you get from what the 5th wheel guys have (weight above the axle), the worse things are. It makes your setup more susceptible to sway, lifts the front more (unless you can compensate by raising your WD tension), causes the back end to sag more. About the only good it does, I think, is makes tight turns a bit easier and may save your tailgate from hitting the tongue jack.

You might look at this item:
http://www.amazon.com/Jack-E-Up-Black/dp/B00H9LLAJS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dD1M-t2eqxM

I want to go the other direction, as short as I can get. I also simply removed my regular tailgate, as I have a Ram Box on my rig which has an internal gate that I can move where I want it. Also, removing the tail gate weight adds a little cargo capacity, and I am tight there.

I experienced the same with my Ford. Ended up getting a hitch bar that was 4" longer from the pin hole to the end of the bar. The Reese part # I have is 54990. It handles 10,000 lb. and 1200 weight dist. bars.

Note: if you go this route you may need to extend your safety chains and relocate emergency brake switch for the added length as I had to.

2005 Chevy