1977 Sunline Truck Camper FULL BUILD
Hello all, My girlfriend and I got a classic 1977 Sunline truck camper (11 FKS Model) for a very reasonable price.....free. We started the large task of fully rebuilding this beast from the ground ...
Forum Discussion
In my setup, I framed and boxed in where the batteries are, then used a section of abs pipe with a louverd vent cover on the outside that goes straight through the tub wall (As my battery boxes are inside the two dinette seats) at the highest point in the compartment.
I sealed all the seams, including the vent, (Aside from the access hatch) with automotive seam sealer, then coated the inside of it in herculiner.
For the opening where the wires and the battery filling hose are exiting the compartments, I filled in the gaps with fire barrier expanding foam.
For the hatch, I also coated it with herculiner, and then installed threaded fittings into the top of the frame to accept screws and then lined the edge of the hatch with foam gasket tape. Once the screws are tightened down through the lid, the compartment is air tight to the camper's interior and has a vent directly outside to allow for the off gassing.
My charger/converter is part of the main distribution panel from Progressive Dynamics, so its on the other side of the camper.
A set of #4 wires will be run from the main battery use selector (I have charging and use on two different switches) and charging unit so that I can separate which bank is getting charge and which is in use (That way I can make efficient use of generator run times for charging when off grid, so the used battery bank is solely the recipient of the energy coming from the charger and amperage isn't being lost to regular loads).
1/0 it used going from the batteries to usage selector (And to the ground plug that the inverter connects to) and from the use selector to the 150 amp breaker for the inverter (Its #4 past that point because the main load panel doesn't need more than #4). Charging is entirely #4 because the converter only puts out 45 amps and that's more than sufficient for the distance run.
I sealed all the seams, including the vent, (Aside from the access hatch) with automotive seam sealer, then coated the inside of it in herculiner.
For the opening where the wires and the battery filling hose are exiting the compartments, I filled in the gaps with fire barrier expanding foam.
For the hatch, I also coated it with herculiner, and then installed threaded fittings into the top of the frame to accept screws and then lined the edge of the hatch with foam gasket tape. Once the screws are tightened down through the lid, the compartment is air tight to the camper's interior and has a vent directly outside to allow for the off gassing.
My charger/converter is part of the main distribution panel from Progressive Dynamics, so its on the other side of the camper.
A set of #4 wires will be run from the main battery use selector (I have charging and use on two different switches) and charging unit so that I can separate which bank is getting charge and which is in use (That way I can make efficient use of generator run times for charging when off grid, so the used battery bank is solely the recipient of the energy coming from the charger and amperage isn't being lost to regular loads).
1/0 it used going from the batteries to usage selector (And to the ground plug that the inverter connects to) and from the use selector to the 150 amp breaker for the inverter (Its #4 past that point because the main load panel doesn't need more than #4). Charging is entirely #4 because the converter only puts out 45 amps and that's more than sufficient for the distance run.
