Forum Discussion
Congratulations on the new rig.
Have to ask what attracted you to the literally worst engine built for light duty trucks in the last 20 years?
Especially given your recent engine issues….
My nephew has three of them working daily for his landscape business without issue. There have been some deletes and other work to make them better. He's had no problems with them under his ownership. My friend was a fleet maintenance manager with a couple of them including his own company truck being 6 liters and those worked well as service trucks. There are so many improved performance aftermarket parts for the 6 liter. The 6 liter is also considered to have about the toughest bottom end of any diesel in it's class. Most failures happen when somebody chips the engine to get higher performance. Leave the tune of the engine alone and it will run for years
most times
- StirCrazyApr 07, 2025Moderator
Nice low milage for the age, that would be a 25K or higher truck up here. that motor should be perfect for hauling your camper.. you'll get better fuel milage also what's the height difference between your old truck and the bed of the new one?
I don't know about the bottom end thing, ill have to read in to that and take your word on it, but they did have the weakest head bolts out of any ford diesel and that's where the issues always came in, to much power added made to much cylinder pressure and then you blow head gaskets. a good after market stud kit fixes that, or just leave it stock. the 6L was a ok first attempt for a 7.3 replacement but it fell short in a few areas that's why it was short lived and the 6.4 was brought in. the 6.4 had issues of its own, but when deleted and tuned it was an absolute beast of a motor, but the 6.7 came out and is going on 14 years now with only updates and no major redesign.. any of them in stock condition are capable of hitting a million miles if taken car of, and if built properly any are good for power and lasting. personally the 6 and 6.4 didn't have enough of a benefit to entice me off my hopped up 99 7.3 diesel , but my 2014 6.7 blows that old 7.3 out of the water, even though the 7.3 had more torque and HP than my 6.7
- Camper_Jeff___KApr 08, 2025Navigator
Dave's auto repair on YouTube says the main trouble with the 6.7 is the oil system. There is a long pathway and the crank is the last in line to get oil. Says it's his most common failure with the 6.7, spun main & rod bearings. The 6.4 which had the 4 headbolt problem too, and the twin cascade turbo which was problematic.
Hopefully, this truck and engine will behave.
- StirCrazyApr 08, 2025Moderator
don't listen to him. I saw that also and it is a theory but there are not many supporters of that issue. the Duramax is breaking more cranks that the 6.7 is spinning bearings, yes it is oil sensitive so if people use the proper oil, and service it properly then generally there is no issue, and if it was really that bad I think they would have changed something with a redesign as they were only on a 4 year engine replacement plan before the 6.7. the biggest thing was turbo failures in the 2011 and 2012 models, that was a specked product that was failing but it was fixed.
to me, the biggest design failure in the 6.7 is the crankcase ventilation system. the separator is hard to replace at home, they don't mention the interval but it should be replaced every 100000km at a cost of 300 bucks to DIY. the problem with this is there is no indication it is plugged up until you start developing "mysterious oil pan leaks upper and lower pan but usually upper. then you have to hope when you do change it out the leak stops and the gasket wasn't damaged or you now have to do a upper pan gasket. I change mine once, this fall it is getting changed to a deleted style separator where the worst it can do is drip a little oil vapour out the hose if the filter is plugged up. the kit will cost 50 bucks more, but filter changes will be a fraction of the price.
the 6.4 had upgraded head bolt in both design and material 2mm larger diameter bolts. and while head gasket failures would still happen once and a while, it is a rare failure on a 6.4, especially on a stock engine. but it did have other issues like the stock rad and up pipes that were prone to crack. the exhaust manifolds in my first gen 6.7 have a issue also. but there is after market manifolds that address this with better grade exhaust studs. easy fix, well not really ha-ha, but lets just say all my turbo fittings, fuel pump fittings and intake stuff is all brand new as it has to come out to do the exhaust manifolds. not the best design for working one in one way, but very good if you decide to replace seals and o rings while your in there.
- Grit_dogApr 07, 2025Navigator
It is a nice looking truck. Best of luck with it. Hope you got a good one.
Just not a gamble I’d take, given the multitude of options that have a more reliable engine.
PS, delete is not the right word. Nothing to “delete” except maybe the cat which isn’t one of the known problems aside from the same potential as any other engine.
EGR, idk what the popular thing is to do with them on a 6.0.
However upgrading all the typical parts that grenade is maybe what you’re referring to. Bulletproofing the 6.0Kits are only about $1600 and way back when I read that you can get the heads off without removing the cab. IE it is possible to bulletproof the heads without a vehicle lift.
possible but not fun. If this one ain’t bulletproofed it’s highly recommended.
The HPOPs also really like clean oil. And they really don’t like extended OCIssafe travels!