We were there last year, I've taken a guided tour in the past but prefer my own tow car on the 18 mi loop around the valley. We can stop as long as needed for photos and can choose the best time for lighting. The guided tour does show more but takes you to more of the touristy spots (of couse thats what we are) and places to buy things from vendors. It's so spectacular you might want to do both. I'd stay at Gouldings too, we used to stay at the native park on the rim but it's nothing like it used to be. Expensive for just a place to park, they prefer the hotel business.