Santa Claus in Baja
Every October, we head down to Mulege, Baja California Sur, where a large population of Canadians and Americans winter in the town or on the beaches. In our “beach community” there are 20 families, mostly Canadians, who return year after year to park their RV's beside the same thatched hut (or palapa) located on Conception Bay, off the Sea of Cortez.
Among our many activities during our 6 month Mexican retreat, is our weekly Sunday gathering, when we get together for fellowship, thanksgiving and the planning of our annual Santa Claus Trip. This trip is financed through donations and the Sunday morning church collection.
Our longest trip is a 6-day jaunt taking us from Conception Bay, on the Sea of Cortes, to the Pacific, up into the mountains where there are ranches and oasis villages, and down to remote fishing villages on the beach. Our Pastor, Roy, who has a close resemblance to Santa Claus, leads this trip, scheduled in early December! In every village, we visit the schools where Roy, dressed as Santa, distributes toys to each child. In the poorest situations, the adults receive a bag of 4 staple foods – rice, flour, beans, and lard, as well as clothing.
Upon our arrival in the villages, we are usually met by the school teacher, who will line the children up - one line for boys and another for girls - youngest in front. It is amazing to watch the children, who know exactly where their place in line is – there is no pushing or shoving – instead there is a happy sea of smiling faces, anxiously anticipating their meeting with Santa. As each child approaches Santa, one can see the joy and amazement in their eyes. Many of them will hug Santa as if they never want to let him go! As Roy would say “Santa opens many doors, allowing us to spread the Gospel, gifts and educational materials" - all of which are gratefully received.
OUR JOURNEY
We leave Mulege early Sunday morning and head to the town of San Ignacio, where the Mission, established in 1728, has been beautifully restored. We meet for lunch in the town square under huge banyan trees,then travel to our first stop – a family of 2 women and two small children. Last year we gave them 2 goats, but now we discover that one has died, possibly due to the lack of food/water on the ranch. From here we travel some 30+ kms. across a fairly good asphalt road which then deteriorates to sand and hardpack, and arrive at Laguna San Ignacio, where we stay overnight in Antonio’s cabins. Antonio caters mainly to whale watching tours, but, as it is out-of-season, he hosts us on his well-laid-out resort. The family caters a delicious dinner, after which we adjourn to the large campfire where we watch the sun go down over the windswept mangroves across the estuary.
We spend Day 2 meandering across a maze of roads on the salt flats, visiting several schools and outlying fish camps. Located on a long sand spit that wanders through mangroves, we arrive at the village of El Delgadito. Near the entrance to the town, there is a house that has a patio/garden built out of whalebones. At the fish cleaning station, we distribute clothing to a very shy population of about 30 families…they have to be encouraged to make selections from the piles laid out on tables and tarps. There are no children in the village as they are away at boarding school. Before we leave, we are invited to tour the bone house and enter through the large whalebone arch where we find a huge collection of tropical plants and vegetables sustained by recycled water. We meet the owner, a pleasant lady who takes care of her severely multi-handicapped , 20 year old son. As his wheelchair is broken, he is crawling around on the ground, so we take the wheelchair with us for the much-needed repairs.
We navigate our way across more miles of salt flats, through crisscrossing tracks, and eventually find the trail leading to San Jose de Gracia, an oasis pueblo in the mountains. A recent hurricane has severely damaged the road, so we resort to traveling partway up the arroyo to reach the "new" road. After a rather bone-jarring trip over primitive roads and huge rocks, we arrive at the ranch of Vidal, who has lived here for his 80+ years. He welcomes us, inviting us to camp in his front yard and use his water and facilities. He tells us that he has had little rain on the ranch for over 4 years and that many of his animals have died. We see his scrawny cows and help him haul water from his well using a hand-operated windlass. There are turkeys, chickens and two magnificent peacocks. As we admire the peacocks, Vidal disappears, returning with a huge bundle of tail feathers, which he presents to us. We learn that when the peacocks shed their feathers in the summer, he gathers them and sends them to Cabo for sale. He insists that we take them and refuses our offers to pay him – an attitude that is reflected by many residents of Baja Sur. We spend the evening around the campfire, singing, telling stories, and listening to Sid Hart reciting the poetry of Chick Velasco.
Next morning it is off to San Jose de Gracia. We turn a dusty corner, and there spread out before us, is the lush oasis - old adobe buildings, date palms, bamboo, and a small stream of running water. We drive through small plantations of vegetables and fruit trees, then enter the pueblo square, where the happy faces of the children, who are anxiously awaiting Santa, greet us!
After traveling to several other fishing villages and ranches, we arrive in the evening at San Juanico where we spend 2 nights for some R&R! We camp on the wide flat beach outside the town, and are greeted by fishermen who come offering fresh fish, lobster and clams.
As Day 5 rolls around, we set off for The Commondu’s, refreshed and rejuvenated. Along the way, we again visit outlying ranches before traveling inland to establish our last camp on the ranch of a goat farmer, located on the bank of a flowing creek. We are now located high in the mountains just outside the old Mission sites of San Jose and San Miguel de Commondu. The establishment of Missions in Baja began in 1697, the mission at San Jose dating back to 1714. The next day we visit with several families in their homes, and then proceed to the school in San Miguel, where we distribute toys and schoolbooks. Recent government initiatives have started repairing old adobe buildings, repairing the cobblestone streets and improving the area around the historic Mission site, in an effort to increase tourism.
Next we travel to San Jose about 3kms. away where the Mission is set in the lush greenery at the end of the road. We visit the Mission and take a few moments to reflect on the blessings in our lives. Then we stroll down the street, where we come across an ancient truck and stop to take a photo. The owner welcomes us to her garden and invites us to tour the work area in the rear, where they roast their coffee beans, juice sugar cane, and make marmalade for resale. As it is a peaceful place for us to relax, we have lunch on the spacious patio before leaving to wend our way home through the bustling towns of Ciudad Insurgentes and Loreto.
In our travels we have seen that life for the residents of Baja California Sur is not always easy. In describing Baja in the 1700’s, a Jesuit missionary wrote: “…poor shrubs, useless thorn bushes, bare rocks, piles of stones, sand without water and wood…” a picture that exists to this day. Many of the ranchers have little water hence the cattle are thin. Fishing villages, many of which exist on remote beaches, often consist of a collection of lean-tos. The hospitality and gratitude that is extended to visitors belies the hardships that exist in everyday life of these fishermen and ranchers. Yet the many people whom we have visited are welcoming, gracious and accustomed to the daily hardships they encounter.
Among our many activities during our 6 month Mexican retreat, is our weekly Sunday gathering, when we get together for fellowship, thanksgiving and the planning of our annual Santa Claus Trip. This trip is financed through donations and the Sunday morning church collection.
Our longest trip is a 6-day jaunt taking us from Conception Bay, on the Sea of Cortes, to the Pacific, up into the mountains where there are ranches and oasis villages, and down to remote fishing villages on the beach. Our Pastor, Roy, who has a close resemblance to Santa Claus, leads this trip, scheduled in early December! In every village, we visit the schools where Roy, dressed as Santa, distributes toys to each child. In the poorest situations, the adults receive a bag of 4 staple foods – rice, flour, beans, and lard, as well as clothing.
Upon our arrival in the villages, we are usually met by the school teacher, who will line the children up - one line for boys and another for girls - youngest in front. It is amazing to watch the children, who know exactly where their place in line is – there is no pushing or shoving – instead there is a happy sea of smiling faces, anxiously anticipating their meeting with Santa. As each child approaches Santa, one can see the joy and amazement in their eyes. Many of them will hug Santa as if they never want to let him go! As Roy would say “Santa opens many doors, allowing us to spread the Gospel, gifts and educational materials" - all of which are gratefully received.
OUR JOURNEY
We leave Mulege early Sunday morning and head to the town of San Ignacio, where the Mission, established in 1728, has been beautifully restored. We meet for lunch in the town square under huge banyan trees,then travel to our first stop – a family of 2 women and two small children. Last year we gave them 2 goats, but now we discover that one has died, possibly due to the lack of food/water on the ranch. From here we travel some 30+ kms. across a fairly good asphalt road which then deteriorates to sand and hardpack, and arrive at Laguna San Ignacio, where we stay overnight in Antonio’s cabins. Antonio caters mainly to whale watching tours, but, as it is out-of-season, he hosts us on his well-laid-out resort. The family caters a delicious dinner, after which we adjourn to the large campfire where we watch the sun go down over the windswept mangroves across the estuary.
We spend Day 2 meandering across a maze of roads on the salt flats, visiting several schools and outlying fish camps. Located on a long sand spit that wanders through mangroves, we arrive at the village of El Delgadito. Near the entrance to the town, there is a house that has a patio/garden built out of whalebones. At the fish cleaning station, we distribute clothing to a very shy population of about 30 families…they have to be encouraged to make selections from the piles laid out on tables and tarps. There are no children in the village as they are away at boarding school. Before we leave, we are invited to tour the bone house and enter through the large whalebone arch where we find a huge collection of tropical plants and vegetables sustained by recycled water. We meet the owner, a pleasant lady who takes care of her severely multi-handicapped , 20 year old son. As his wheelchair is broken, he is crawling around on the ground, so we take the wheelchair with us for the much-needed repairs.
We navigate our way across more miles of salt flats, through crisscrossing tracks, and eventually find the trail leading to San Jose de Gracia, an oasis pueblo in the mountains. A recent hurricane has severely damaged the road, so we resort to traveling partway up the arroyo to reach the "new" road. After a rather bone-jarring trip over primitive roads and huge rocks, we arrive at the ranch of Vidal, who has lived here for his 80+ years. He welcomes us, inviting us to camp in his front yard and use his water and facilities. He tells us that he has had little rain on the ranch for over 4 years and that many of his animals have died. We see his scrawny cows and help him haul water from his well using a hand-operated windlass. There are turkeys, chickens and two magnificent peacocks. As we admire the peacocks, Vidal disappears, returning with a huge bundle of tail feathers, which he presents to us. We learn that when the peacocks shed their feathers in the summer, he gathers them and sends them to Cabo for sale. He insists that we take them and refuses our offers to pay him – an attitude that is reflected by many residents of Baja Sur. We spend the evening around the campfire, singing, telling stories, and listening to Sid Hart reciting the poetry of Chick Velasco.
Next morning it is off to San Jose de Gracia. We turn a dusty corner, and there spread out before us, is the lush oasis - old adobe buildings, date palms, bamboo, and a small stream of running water. We drive through small plantations of vegetables and fruit trees, then enter the pueblo square, where the happy faces of the children, who are anxiously awaiting Santa, greet us!
After traveling to several other fishing villages and ranches, we arrive in the evening at San Juanico where we spend 2 nights for some R&R! We camp on the wide flat beach outside the town, and are greeted by fishermen who come offering fresh fish, lobster and clams.
As Day 5 rolls around, we set off for The Commondu’s, refreshed and rejuvenated. Along the way, we again visit outlying ranches before traveling inland to establish our last camp on the ranch of a goat farmer, located on the bank of a flowing creek. We are now located high in the mountains just outside the old Mission sites of San Jose and San Miguel de Commondu. The establishment of Missions in Baja began in 1697, the mission at San Jose dating back to 1714. The next day we visit with several families in their homes, and then proceed to the school in San Miguel, where we distribute toys and schoolbooks. Recent government initiatives have started repairing old adobe buildings, repairing the cobblestone streets and improving the area around the historic Mission site, in an effort to increase tourism.
Next we travel to San Jose about 3kms. away where the Mission is set in the lush greenery at the end of the road. We visit the Mission and take a few moments to reflect on the blessings in our lives. Then we stroll down the street, where we come across an ancient truck and stop to take a photo. The owner welcomes us to her garden and invites us to tour the work area in the rear, where they roast their coffee beans, juice sugar cane, and make marmalade for resale. As it is a peaceful place for us to relax, we have lunch on the spacious patio before leaving to wend our way home through the bustling towns of Ciudad Insurgentes and Loreto.
In our travels we have seen that life for the residents of Baja California Sur is not always easy. In describing Baja in the 1700’s, a Jesuit missionary wrote: “…poor shrubs, useless thorn bushes, bare rocks, piles of stones, sand without water and wood…” a picture that exists to this day. Many of the ranchers have little water hence the cattle are thin. Fishing villages, many of which exist on remote beaches, often consist of a collection of lean-tos. The hospitality and gratitude that is extended to visitors belies the hardships that exist in everyday life of these fishermen and ranchers. Yet the many people whom we have visited are welcoming, gracious and accustomed to the daily hardships they encounter.
