30 amp outlet

Good practice on a 30 amp circuit but very important on 50 amp.

When inserting a 50 amp plug; if both hots connect but the neutral does not, you can send 200+ volts to appliances. $$$$

Brought the trailer home from warranty service at the dealer today...ready for a couple small projects and prep for our next trip. AC is cooling nicely in the desert heat. :D

I installed 2 - 30 amp RV outlets at my house. The first was on the side of the garage, thinking we'd always park the camper in the same spot. I did not have a cut off switch, so I always use the breaker on the panel inside the garage.

About 4 years later we decided we wanted to park the camper on a different spot. We removed an old basket ball pole and goal that was concreted into the side of the drive way. It had power going to it for a 15 amp plug, coming off the main junction for both house and garage. After removing the basket ball goal pole, I took that wire, shortened it, and added a different 15 amp plug at the main junction.

I then added the second 30 amp RV plug with it's own breaker. The wiring was exceptionally easy for the second one, since I only needed about 2 feet of wire to install the 30 amp box.

So now, we have all kinds of options. Currently, the camper is plugged into the first one, as the camper is actually in the back yard on the grass right now. We returned home this morning from an extended weekend trip and wanted to park the camper somewhere a little different at home this time. So, with the ability to plug in two different locations and position the camper multiple ways in front of the garage, or between the garage and house, or behind the house, it keeps some freshness with the camper all the time! We do sleep in it every night, all Summer long.

So, you will find having your own 30 amp RV plug a really nice thing. It will add much more quality usefulness to your camper. And you'll find yourself using it a lot more at home now too.

"Just good routine to OPEN breaker(s) prior to plugging in on high amp receptacles so that arcing doesn't occur
Especially at CGs where the plugs are worn/abused/cracked etc

Same when unplugging....open CBs first"

TRUE!!!

This is good guidance. Thank you.

I had considered keeping the panel breaker off when the trailer isn’t plugged in. This reinforces that idea. Easy enough to turn on the breaker after plugging in.

DrewE wrote:
You can easily get "light switches" rated for 30A at big box stores and other places. I put one of those in (on the inside of the garage) when I installed a 30A RV socket at my house. Being inside meant I didn't have to dither about with a weatherproof housing for the switch.

Ordinary cheap light switches are not rated for 30A, of course; it's only certain heavy-duty ones that are, typically two pole switches (but only one pole is used in this case).

I used a "motor-rated" 30 amp toggle switch in a weatherproof enclosure next to our 30 amp RV recept. in the carport. Motor-rated switches have heavier contacts to withstand motor inrush current and are compact compared to other options. Turning power off before plugging in will help extend the life of plug and recept. The converter/charger has an inrush current that causes pitting on a plug blade and recept. contact surfaces and over time will attract dirt and eventually possibly cause overheating and a meltdown. I had two 15 amp extension cord connectors go up in smoke in the driveway and then installed a 30 amp recept. which solved that.

bigorange wrote:
“Perfectly legal”...I agree. I’m not aware of any requirement for a disconnect in the box. I’m also not familiar with the recommendation to have the outlet disconnected when plugging/unplugging.

Just good routine to OPEN breaker(s) prior to plugging in on high amp receptacles so that arcing doesn't occur
Especially at CGs where the plugs are worn/abused/cracked etc

Same when unplugging....open CBs first



Just helps eliminate damage to your RV Power cord plug prongs.

“Perfectly legal”...I agree. I’m not aware of any requirement for a disconnect in the box. I’m also not familiar with the recommendation to have the outlet disconnected when plugging/unplugging.

bigorange wrote:
That box has no disconnect in it.

Nor does my 50A, I simply walk into my shop and flip on or off the 50A breaker in the panel. Perfectly legal. Also much less $$$.

You can easily get "light switches" rated for 30A at big box stores and other places. I put one of those in (on the inside of the garage) when I installed a 30A RV socket at my house. Being inside meant I didn't have to dither about with a weatherproof housing for the switch.

Ordinary cheap light switches are not rated for 30A, of course; it's only certain heavy-duty ones that are, typically two pole switches (but only one pole is used in this case).