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Another Solar Install

wannabegone
Explorer
Explorer
I finally have my solar installed, I want to thank all who gave me feed back and advise Calling Solar Gurus. I knew I was going with the factory installed solar wiring in my 2008 Lance 1181 so I decided to go with the Morningstar TristarTS-MPPT-45 Charge Controller from solarhome.org with the Morningstar Remote Temperature Sensor RTS. To keep an eye on the system I added the TriStar TS-RM-2 Digital Remote Meter 2 also from solar home.org I made my decision on the panels several times before finally settled on the Solar Cynergy 120 Watt 12 Volt Solar Panel from solarblvd.com

Before I go any farther let me commend the customer service of both solarhome.org and solarblvd.com. When I ordered the charge controller and the meter I also ordered the battery temperature sensor. I received a call from a number I did not recognize the next day. It was a rep from solarhome.org asking if I was really wanting 2 of the sensors, I didn't realize one came with the controller and it was nice of them to call and clarify. When the panels were delivered the box was damaged, my wife pointed it out to the shipper and all he said was there shouldn't be any thing wrong with the contents. he kept asking her if she wanted accept or decline the package, when she opened the box and found a scratch on the panel the shipper stated it would be fine and pulled out of the driveway. My wife called solarblvd.com and after a little information had another one on the way. Hats off to both companies.

After deciding on the equipment it was time to figure out where to put it. The solar panels were easy, on either side of the hatch on the front of the cab over. The charge controller was a little more difficult, I originally wanted to put in the driver's side rear compartment



but the battery compartment is certainly not where it needs to be unless I wanted to completely want to commit to sealed batteries, which I do not. After going around and around with myself and getting help from the wife on the best location I finally decided on the small cabinet beside the stove below the counter





I had already found the solar wiring in the cabinet over the sink



there was the blue and white wires and an additional blue wire, I had to dig around in the hole with a pick to find the second white wire. I could not find the blue or white wire in the battery compartment, after much digging I finally found a blue win the under floor drawer area near the rear of the TC



and verified it was the same wire in the cabinet above the sink. I have found different information about the prewire from different sites since we purchased the 1181, none mentioned that even though there are 2 blue and 2 white wires in the cabinet there is only a blue wire near the battery compartment. I found the second white wire in the cabinet is wired directly into the campers ground circuit. When looking at Lance's wiring diagram I realize that the factory installed the charge controller was mounted in the cabinet where the wiring so the wiring worked for Lance but not for me. I stayed with the wiring from the roof and from the existing wiring I continued 12ga wire behind the microwave



down through the pantry



behind the stove and out into the cabinet where the controller will be



I had already decided to install the meter in the cabinet above the sink near the Lance information center so I ran it's wiring along with it. I thought the 4ga battery wires and battery temperature sensor would be simple, down out of the cabinet, across through the drawer area under the floor but thankfully before I started drilling I remembered the grey tank is where I was going to run the wire. So I went with the next best think. Out of the cabinet, though the floor



into the curb side basement area



under the basement area



onto the battery area. The battery cutoff switch



and the terminal tool I purchased for the 4g terminals





Now that all the interior wiring was as run it was time to install the interior components and secure the wiring. The controller was first, I wanted to keep the area open for the air to cool the unit but keep any items from the adjacent cabinet, the wife volunteered a basket she had picked up at a thrift store



After getting the controller wired up I installed the meter



then on to securing and somewhat neatening the wiring up











After getting the interior back together and ready to go except for installing the fuse from the solar panels I checked my settings on the controller and connected the battery. So far so good all appears to be working properly on the meter readings.

After several days of rain I moved to the roof and the installing the solar panels. First was securing the the panels in place. I had purchased 2 sets of the Renology Z brackets but wanted to be able to tilt the panels for better winter usage and ease of maintenance of the panels and the roof. After much study and searching I finally settled on metal angle







I attached each panel first with 3M VHB tape, 16 heavy duty wood screws (8 on each bracket) and topped off liberally with dicor.



I used a 6x6x6 junction box where the prewire came out of the roof



I cut a hole in the bottom of the box, removed the factory solar connector, installed a ground bar on each end for a good connection and 2 water tight connections on the side, of course lot's of dicor



run and secure the wiring



with more dicor. Back inside I installed the fuse in the positive circuit from the roof wala I have "free" energy



this was taken around 11am with a partial shadow on the drivers side panel from where I currently park the TC. We have a trip coming up, not boondocking the whole trip but at least 2 nights along the way. I'm interested to see how well it keeps the batteries up.
2005 Chevy Crew Cab 3500 6.6 Duramax
2008 Keystone Springdale 307FKLGL
2008 Lance 1181
1994 Harley Electra Glide Classic
31 REPLIES 31

scrubjaysnest
Explorer
Explorer
Just saw this one; a nice job. Since the TS-45 can remote monitor temp and has voltage sense wires there is no need to get it as close to the batteries as possible. We went from 2012 to 2015 with just a Fluke DVM, clamp on ammeter, and hydrometer for battery monitoring. Something like a Trimetric is just icing on the cake but allows weekly data retrieval and is the reason we added it. Hydrometer readings still need to be taken and I do that when I check battery fluid levels about once a month.
Axis 24.1 class A 500watts solar TS-45CC Trimetric
Very noisy generator :M
2016 Wrangler JK dinghy
โ€œThey who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.โ€ Benjamin Franklin

Dakzuki
Explorer
Explorer
wannabegone wrote:
Nothing against AMG batteries, the 2 Interstate batteries I have are just over a year old. I may eventually go to AMG but I will have to get past the cost lol.

The meter is mounted to the left of the other monitors Lance installed


Looks like a nice tidy installation.

Even if you don't go with AGMs, if you can get a couple of golf cart 6V batteries you will be much better off than flooded 12V batteries. Nearly all 12V flooded batteries are in fact a hybrid design not optimized for deep cycle use like a golf cart battery which is a true deep cycle battery. You will have to get your tape measure out as the sizing is a bit different.

I am presuming from the pic that those are Interstate 12V batteries.
2011 Itasca Navion 24J
2000 Chev Tracker Toad

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
There's no need for a fancy monitor in most cases. If you know when the battery gets full and know that you're not drawing down too much to harm the battery, you're all set.

Any decent controller will go into a low 14 volt absorption mode when charging and a low 13 V float when the battery is full, so it's easy to know from just watching the voltage whether the battery is getting fully charged or not. If you're not drawing down below the low 12's under light load, things are fine - no-load resting voltage is about 12.2 @50% state of charge.

Drawing down too much? You need more battery. Not fully charging? You need more solar. It's not rocket science, nor does it need instrumentation which will tell you current state of charge within a hair's breadth.

Anything more is anal retentive bragging rights.

Boon_Docker
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have a meter that tells me the amps and volts coming from the solar, the amps and volts going into the battery and the SOC of the batteries.
I have be running solar with 2 6v batteries for 7 years is far and have not found that a battery monitor is essential.

EsoxLucius
Explorer
Explorer
wannabegone wrote:
I did quite a bit of research before I decided how I wanted to set my system up. I read handybobsolar, good information but I realized early on that if I followed everyones good advice, I'd be several thousand dollars into a system that was much more than I needed. I am fully aware of how important it is to monitor the battery voltage, I feel knowing the voltage is sufficient for me, how I get that information is irrelevant to me. As far as the rest of the information, the wife and I are inconsistent at best when it comes to how we use the TC. We have a built-in generator so if the voltage get to a critical level we turn the generator on. No matter how much research I do on how much voltage we actually use there will never be a guarantee of how much voltage we will need on any given trip. For me the 2 extra batteries I plan to add as soon as I recover from the solar cost will do more for us than a monitor on top of the remote meter and if that isn't enough I have the ability to add at least one more 120 watt solar panel


Your response indicates that you do not really understand RV 12 volt electrical systems and the role of a battery monitor. Battery voltage is not the reason a monitor is essential, battery capacity is. You claim you read Handy Bob but are willing to entertain adding more batteries and a solar panel yet have not employed the one thing that will actually let you know what is happening to your batteries and help you keep them healthy.
2013 LTV Unity MB Theater Seats
635 watts solar panels, 440 AH batteries, BlueSky Solar Boost 3024iL & IPN-Pro Remote, Magnum MS2000 & ME-RC50 remote
Koni Shocks F & R, Hellwig 7254, SumoSprings F & R
2012 Hyundai Accent SE, Blue Ox Aladdin/Patriot

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
EsoxLucius wrote:
No, a real battery monitor.
No true Scotsman needs a battery monitor.

JFNM
Explorer
Explorer
I don't view the battery monitor as part of the "solar charging system" - in the strictest sense. It is part of the battery/storage system. But that is really picking at nats! ๐Ÿ™‚

After you use the system for awhile, the reason for a battery monitor will become self evident. Not having one is not the end of the world but you will find battery voltage is very inaccurate and a poor indicator of state of charge, I found it to be useless. This is partially due to the fact that voltage is only semi-accurate after the battery has rested for many hours (at least three, preferably 24) and that never happens during typical RV use. You are always putting power in (solar) or taking it out. That is why measuring all "power" flow in to and out of the batteries, thru a shunt, is necessary to know their actual state of charge.

You are right! If you do everything that everyone says all at once, you would never do anything - between the complexity and expense. ๐Ÿ™‚ You've made a fantastic addition/upgrade to your RV! Enjoy it!!! Solar is a WONDERFUL thing!
JD - Full timer out west
1998 MCI 102-EL3 Revolution | 2010 Wrangler (daJeep) | 1.7kW Solar - 10kWh Lithium
My Adventures

wannabegone
Explorer
Explorer
I did quite a bit of research before I decided how I wanted to set my system up. I read handybobsolar, good information but I realized early on that if I followed everyones good advice, I'd be several thousand dollars into a system that was much more than I needed. I am fully aware of how important it is to monitor the battery voltage, I feel knowing the voltage is sufficient for me, how I get that information is irrelevant to me. As far as the rest of the information, the wife and I are inconsistent at best when it comes to how we use the TC. We have a built-in generator so if the voltage get to a critical level we turn the generator on. No matter how much research I do on how much voltage we actually use there will never be a guarantee of how much voltage we will need on any given trip. For me the 2 extra batteries I plan to add as soon as I recover from the solar cost will do more for us than a monitor on top of the remote meter and if that isn't enough I have the ability to add at least one more 120 watt solar panel
2005 Chevy Crew Cab 3500 6.6 Duramax
2008 Keystone Springdale 307FKLGL
2008 Lance 1181
1994 Harley Electra Glide Classic

allen8106
Explorer
Explorer
EsoxLucius wrote:
No, a real battery monitor.

http://www.technomadia.com/2008/05/rv-battery-monitoring/

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/handybobs-golden-rules-for-living-on-solar-and-battery-power/


100% agree, I don't even have solar yet and I installed a TM-2030-RV monitor. The remote display is not a substitute for a good battery monitor. Also, not sure where your batteres are but the controller needs to be as close to the batteries as possible. This ensures maximum power gets to the batteries. Do yourself a favor and read Handy Bobs and Jack Mayers web sites.
2010 Eagle Super Lite 315RLDS
2018 GMC Sierra 3500HD 6.6L Duramax

2010 Nights 45
2011 Nights 70
2012 Nights 144
2013 Nights 46
2014 Nights 49
2015 Nights 57
2016 Nights 73
2017 Nights 40
2018 Nights 56
2019 Nights 76
2020 Nights 68

EsoxLucius
Explorer
Explorer
No, a real battery monitor.

http://www.technomadia.com/2008/05/rv-battery-monitoring/

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/handybobs-golden-rules-for-living-on-solar-and-battery-power/
2013 LTV Unity MB Theater Seats
635 watts solar panels, 440 AH batteries, BlueSky Solar Boost 3024iL & IPN-Pro Remote, Magnum MS2000 & ME-RC50 remote
Koni Shocks F & R, Hellwig 7254, SumoSprings F & R
2012 Hyundai Accent SE, Blue Ox Aladdin/Patriot

paddywanpeep
Explorer
Explorer
You did a very nice job on your install, looks clean and professional!

wannabegone
Explorer
Explorer
What type of monitor are you referring to? I am getting all of the information I think I need for the battery and solar from the TS-RM-2
2005 Chevy Crew Cab 3500 6.6 Duramax
2008 Keystone Springdale 307FKLGL
2008 Lance 1181
1994 Harley Electra Glide Classic

EsoxLucius
Explorer
Explorer
The TS-RM-2 is not a battery monitor.
2013 LTV Unity MB Theater Seats
635 watts solar panels, 440 AH batteries, BlueSky Solar Boost 3024iL & IPN-Pro Remote, Magnum MS2000 & ME-RC50 remote
Koni Shocks F & R, Hellwig 7254, SumoSprings F & R
2012 Hyundai Accent SE, Blue Ox Aladdin/Patriot

wannabegone
Explorer
Explorer
Nothing against AMG batteries, the 2 Interstate batteries I have are just over a year old. I may eventually go to AMG but I will have to get past the cost lol.

The meter is mounted to the left of the other monitors Lance installed
2005 Chevy Crew Cab 3500 6.6 Duramax
2008 Keystone Springdale 307FKLGL
2008 Lance 1181
1994 Harley Electra Glide Classic