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Audio retrofit

jordanm
Explorer
Explorer
I'm curious to know people's experience(s) with regards to cabinetry. I want to remove the original "stereo" unit in my Springdale 5th. It consists of an AM/FM/CD player that is flush mounted to the cabinet next to the steps leading to the sleeping area. (I say "stereo" because the unit feeds ONE 4" ceiling mounted speaker in the living area and another in the bedroom, both "mono" signals, I believe. Wasn't "stereo" introduced back about 1960?!) The unit measures about 8" sq. The cabinet has two doors below the stereo to hang clothes. There is no clear way in to remove the unit and install my new in-dash car unit with the standard 7.25"W. x 2.25" H. size. (I have assistance lined up to fill in the remaining space on the cabinet's face.) Two questions: does anyone have any idea of how to access and remove the old unit? There are no obvious ways in to the cabinet. Could the top (3' W. x 2' D.?) of the cabinet be easily removed and put back into place? Would Keystone have allowed for a bit of excess wire in the cubby hole to facilitate replacing the original "stereo"? Also, I'm wondering if anyone can share their experience running and hiding speaker wire in a trailer? I want to install a pair of Boston Acoustics Micro 90s on the slide out's "header" (the 5th will be stationary for the season) and a small powered sub behind the cabinet in the bedroom. I'm perfectly capable when it comes to wiring a sound system in my house, but this will be my first attempt in my 5th. I want it to look as good as it sounds. Thanks in advance for any help in these matters....
3 REPLIES 3

colliehauler
Explorer III
Explorer III
I responded to your same post in 5th wheels.

MitchF150
Explorer III
Explorer III
This is what I did with mine. I built the box first. Put the car stereo in and then mounted the box in the cabinet where the original radio was.

Wired to the original wiring and found out why the OEM sounded so bad... One of the speakers ground wire was a ground for the 12v system... Anyway, ran new ground to the speaker and it sounds pretty good.. Loud enough for a small trailer and not disturb your neighbors in a cramped camp site.





Mitch
2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Most players, either RV or auto, will have a way to detach the unit from the mounting cage. It involves the use of a removal tool, usually. Check with the mfg of your player for that detail.

Typical RV headunits are 2 DIN spaces. If you choose a 1 DIN unit to replace it, there are accessory faceplate bezels that will accommodate that. There should be adequate wire length for replacement.

Pulling wire through RV walls or ceilings is problematic. If you don't want surface mount wiring, pulling wire through the under-floor space is probably going to be your best tactic. If heating ducts align well, that can be another tactic.

FWIW, retail stereo dates to around 1948-1950. I use a pair of modified Boston A-40's in my trailer. It is more than anyone needs for good sound. I have no need for a subwoofer.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton