Wasn't sure if this was better here or in Tech Forum. Please move if this is incorrect forum, thanks!I'm considering making our bed bigger in our 1996 Class C which will mean that it will be extended all the way to the wall on one side. The walk area that is there now will be covered up. I would like this to be accessible storage space but a hatch on the inside won't be very accessible much past the first foot or so. What I would like to do is build an external hatch door (like the other existing storage hatch doors from the factory) to be able to easily access the entire area.My question is, what is a good way of doing this? Looking at the existing hatches, they seem to be custom constructed from extruded stock and cut to build a frame, much like a picture frame or cabinet door.At the moment, I'm planning to see if I can find someone parting a trailer that I can scavenge an applicable sized hatch from, frame and all.Is this a good approach? Should I be looking at sourcing some of the above mentioned extruded stock (no idea where from) and building my own? Are there hatch kits or maybe even prebuilt units you can buy that are better/newer construction that what was used 20 years ago?TIA!

I think this is a more complicated project than you're expecting. There quite likely is some structural framework in the exterior wall where you want your hatch. At the very minimum, I would not recommend proceeding too far without having a pretty good understanding of the sidewall construction and framing.If it's just plain wall, by some miracle, without any studs or equivalent, cutting a hole and putting in a hatch door would be the easiest way to go. Ideally you'd probably want some sort of solid structure surrounding the cutout, such as wood blocking between the wall skins. Depending on the wall construction of your RV, this may be practical to do or rather impractical. (A wood framed wall should be comparatively straightforward, a laminated wall rather less so).Have you considered having the top hinged as well as an end access door from the inside? You could then store seldom needed items towards the back, such as spare repair parts or tire changing tools, and move the mattress aside temporarily for the rare times you needed them.

I did this same mod in my older model Class C. The rear bed was already a Queen with a air lifts on both sides to permit storage under the bed. There was walk space on both sides of the bed. Extending the bed to the wall on the driver side permitted us to install a king size high quality regular home mattress.It takes some exploring with an electronic stud finder to determine what is in the wall before cutting. Some pounding and a few tiny exploratory drilled holes helped locate framing materials. (Hint...drilling from the inside into wall paneling is easier to fill in a mistake than the exterior fiberglass skin. Don't ask how I know this!)My coach maker has gone out of business, so no help possible from the factory. In my case, the sides had wood framing surrounded by the usual RV styrofoam "sandwich" of wood wall paneling inside, and exterior fiberglass. There was a large horizontal window above the bed on the sidewall, and the only framing was on both sides of that window. So the space below where I wanted to put the exterior compartment was clear of framing, and determined the size and placement of the exterior compartment door.I would recommend purchasing a new door over the Internet to match the existing exterior windows and compartments. Just type in RV Surplus Stores in search engine like Chrome. There are lots of choices available from a few "surplus" parts stores in the Elkhart, IN area. Mine actually came from Bontrager's RV, which is just across the border in Michigan. Matching color and style looks better and helps resale over homemade. There are some new doors available direct from the same maker that supplied them to the motorhome maker, but they are more expensive. Used compartments are also available in RV salvage yards, but condition is always unknown since they made have been exposed to water for 20 years.The interior box forming the new bed is just basic plywood cutting and gluing carpenty. I lined the box with 1 inch styrofoam insulation cut to press fit inside just to avoid cold spots on the bed.Jim Hamilton

This is a follow-up to previous post. Just went to ebay and typed in RV Compartment Door and came up with 10 pages of listings. Doors start at $39 and go to over $100, depending on size, finish, and type of corners. Most appear to be new and ready to install without hassle (after you get the hole cut).Jim Hamilton

RV construction is pretty basic and as long as you know how to frame a window or door I wouldn't hesitate to take on this project. Maybe cut the paneling inside of the new storage area where the new hatch will go to see what you'll be dealing with if you don't already know.

Wow, thanks for the fast responses!Didn't even think to look on ebay for hatches. Doh! Found several that would fit and many of them seem better quality than existing ones. Thanks!As for the cutting of the hole, I'm not to worried. I too will also be doing it under an existing window, so hoping no vertical support under it. If there is framing, I'll slide in pieces to make new framing around the new opening.I've not done it on an RV before, but have several times on my home and shop. Hopefully not too much different. :)

Creating new external hatches | Good Sam Community

JWRoberts
Explorer
Dec 26, 2015
Almot wrote:
Brave people, cutting holes in exterior walls. I would rather make that bed lifting on a long piano hinge, to get access to underbed storage. Oh, wait - my bed already came lifting from the factory :)...

No, I don't believe that 5200 sealant remains sticky and attracts dirt. Don't know any sealant that would. Though it probably will remain soft-ish. I used 4200 on other project, it cures to flexible gum-like substance, not sticky. What I didn't like is that it was very low-density, easily flowing out of the cracks when given a chance, until it cures - which takes a long time. Since it comes only in black and white, spills can be a nuisance on other color surfaces. West Marine has it cheaper than Amazon, and less fancy marine stores might have it cheaper yet.

When fixing the siding seam outside, I used Lexel - it behaves more like an adhesive than sealant, clear, doesn't flow out of cracks, very tacky until it cures, though it cures fast.

Cut through mine within a week of bringing it home. It was a no-brainer to do so but did require some planning prior to execution of the plan.
Almot
Explorer III
Dec 26, 2015
Yes, they warn in the manual that 5200 is for permanent attachment. There is always a chance that you'll have to remove that hatch later, for some exterior repairs, so I wouldn't want it to be "permanent".
johnhicks
Explorer
Dec 26, 2015
5200 doesn't stay sticky; in fact, it gets fairly rock-hard. Also there's fast-cure versions of 5200 and 4200.

Note that 5200 is an _adhesive_ sealant meaning that whatever you put on with 5200 isn't coming off, while Sikaflex is a caulk. I like to use Sikaflex or Proflex for caulking and 5200 for bedding (rather than bedding compound) and very permanent sealing.

For hatches 5200 or 4200 is what to use.
Almot
Explorer III
Dec 26, 2015
Brave people, cutting holes in exterior walls. I would rather make that bed lifting on a long piano hinge, to get access to underbed storage. Oh, wait - my bed already came lifting from the factory :)...

No, I don't believe that 5200 sealant remains sticky and attracts dirt. Don't know any sealant that would. Though it probably will remain soft-ish. I used 4200 on other project, it cures to flexible gum-like substance, not sticky. What I didn't like is that it was very low-density, easily flowing out of the cracks when given a chance, until it cures - which takes a long time. Since it comes only in black and white, spills can be a nuisance on other color surfaces. West Marine has it cheaper than Amazon, and less fancy marine stores might have it cheaper yet.

When fixing the siding seam outside, I used Lexel - it behaves more like an adhesive than sealant, clear, doesn't flow out of cracks, very tacky until it cures, though it cures fast.
Hossrod
Explorer
Dec 25, 2015
That 3M 5200 looks like pretty good stuff. I've used Sikaflex for years. The 5200 is only a couple more dollars (found it on amazon for $16 a cartridge). Need to get one and try it out.

One Q&A on amazon someone said this about 5200... "It is no good on an RV exterior as it will not get slick and attracts dirt.". Have you had any such issues?
JWRoberts
Explorer
Dec 24, 2015
I did exactly that on my last travel trailer. The bedroom closet went across the entire trailer and there was storage below the closet floor. But you had to lift up the floor, which meant you could not keep much on the floor. So I added two out side hatches so I could access that area from outside.

Once you decide where you want the hatch, carefully cut away the inside wall covering from where you want the door. Then inspect this area for any wires or structural metal. If you must cut through a piece of structure, then you can add a horizontal piece of angle metal between two adjacent vertical structures.

Good luck.
Rbertalotto
Explorer
Dec 24, 2015
Couple questions...
Since your door has rounded corners, did you put frame fillets in the corners?
Yes, I cut fillers from solid pressure treated wood

I noticed your door is the type with the screws on the inside, what did you do to get the frame tight to the body while screwing it in, just hand pressure?
The frame is glued with 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive and stainless steel screws. I used LOTS of sealant and squeezed it tightly while screwing it in.

What did you use for sealant? Did you put sealant on before screwing frame to body?
Yes...
I use 3m 5200 on everything....Boats and RVs. Not cheap at $25 a tube. Available in Fast Set or Slow Set....I use Fast Set exclusively. Available at Lowes, Home Depot or West Marine.
hedge
Explorer
Dec 23, 2015
Rbertalotto wrote:
Just did the exact same modification on my TT. You can read about it on my web site .
Www.rvbprecision.com

some nice mods. Below is the clicky

http://rvbprecision.com/diesel-stuff/dodge-cummins-diesel/forest-river-cherokee-grey-wolf-19rr-toy-hauler.html
Hossrod
Explorer
Dec 23, 2015
Rbertalotto wrote:
Just did the exact same modification on my TT. You can read about it on my web site .
Www.rvbprecision.com

I verified today mine is wood frame. There is one vertical frame member under the window which will be easy enough to alternate support.

Thanks for the link, you had a lot of good mods on that page! I also have several of those USB/voltmeter panels I'm going to be putting in mine. Your hatch door mod looks just like what I'll be doing.

Couple questions...
Since your door has rounded corners, did you put frame fillets in the corners?
I noticed your door is the type with the screws on the inside, what did you do to get the frame tight to the body while screwing it in, just hand pressure?
What did you use for sealant? Did you put sealant on before screwing frame to body?
Rbertalotto
Explorer
Dec 23, 2015
Just did the exact same modification on my TT. You can read about it on my web site .
Www.rvbprecision.com

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