DYI LED Camper Light Fixtures
It requires a little skill and understanding of electronics to modify them to work but I have found the light output is better than some of the products being sold for RVs. These110 volt LED puck lights were on display at Lowe’s Home Center for 30$ and and after looking at the kit I figured out I could modify them for the camper. 
I prefer the WARM light output around 3000 Kelvin and the low amp requirement from the incandescent lights.
The first issue on modifying any LEDs for camper use is that the DC side is not a pure 12 volts but varies from around 12 volts to 14.6 volts or maybe higher when the converter goes into bulk mode. Any group of LEDs strung together to handle the voltage will often flicker with voltage changes and often fail due to the converter spiking to bulk mode. They need to have a voltage regulator in the circuit to prevent the LEDs from frying. Many of the cheaper LED packages don’t have a regulator in the circuit.
I eliminated the components required for AC operation and kept the stripped down DC voltage regulator circuit to run the individual LED pucks at a constant 12v DC and current. Some switches from the automotive store and some wood work finished out the various custom fixtures. The automotive switches allow you to turn on/off individual LED pucks and a master switch turns off/on all power to the voltage regulator that powers all the LEDs.
The three light fixtures I have built and changed.
They make a huge difference in power consumption. The one over the dining table ran a three halogen light fixture which consumed 5.25 amps where all three LED pucks running only consume 0.4 amps and have better light.
I prefer the WARM light output around 3000 Kelvin and the low amp requirement from the incandescent lights.
The first issue on modifying any LEDs for camper use is that the DC side is not a pure 12 volts but varies from around 12 volts to 14.6 volts or maybe higher when the converter goes into bulk mode. Any group of LEDs strung together to handle the voltage will often flicker with voltage changes and often fail due to the converter spiking to bulk mode. They need to have a voltage regulator in the circuit to prevent the LEDs from frying. Many of the cheaper LED packages don’t have a regulator in the circuit.
I eliminated the components required for AC operation and kept the stripped down DC voltage regulator circuit to run the individual LED pucks at a constant 12v DC and current. Some switches from the automotive store and some wood work finished out the various custom fixtures. The automotive switches allow you to turn on/off individual LED pucks and a master switch turns off/on all power to the voltage regulator that powers all the LEDs.
The three light fixtures I have built and changed.
They make a huge difference in power consumption. The one over the dining table ran a three halogen light fixture which consumed 5.25 amps where all three LED pucks running only consume 0.4 amps and have better light.
