....of my 2002 Arctic Fox 24.5N FW and I have some questions: When I took the old coroplast off, the bottom of the holding tanks were sagging downward a little, thus causing the coroplast to sag downward. I plan on putting 1" rigid insulation between the new sheet of coroplast and the tank, but it is make a bigger downward bulge under the tank. Should I screw on a little piece of 2x4 around the downward edge perimeter of the frame (around the tank) in order to make it so when I put the coroplast up, everything is flush without a big sag in the center of the coroplast? In other words, I would be extending downward by 1.5" the edge of the steel frame. Sure I would decrease the (body) ground clearance by 1.5", but I don't think that will make much of a difference.
Question #2: I have a single slide out and I want to insulate in that outside frame space too. But I don't want to screw anything into the mechanism that extends the slide out(for obvious reasons), so could I just press some rigid insulation up next to the bottom side of the floorboards and then use wood screws to screw through the insulation, into the plywood floor above? Does anyone have any idea how thick the floorboard plywood is? I don't want the screw tips tearing up the bottom of the slide as it moves in and out.
#3. Not insulation related... but why not? I will be installing a solar panel on the roof. How are the roofs of these things designed? Is the roof a solid piece of plywood, or is it just a frame with studs and you have to find a specific location to penetrate the roof for attaching the solar panel and wire penetrations? I am thinking of getting rid of the crank up TV antenna we never use and using that penetration through the roof as the location of the solar panel wire roof penetration.
Any suggestions?
