Insulating Underside of TT-Has anyone done it?

As a source for the coreplast, check with local sign shops. They can get it. Usually 4x8 sheets.

doughere, I ordered 10 4x8 sheets of Coroplast form Home Depot for a little over $100. It is black on one side and white on the other. Worked great.

This waterbed heater pulls 1a/120w:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/InnoMax-Thermal-Guardian-Touch-Temp-Solid-State-Waterbed-Heater-Low-Watt-/321594761634?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae08aa1a2#shpCntId

In my camper, I'm using 12v pads, directly off the batteries, so I can run them without the inverter on, when boondocking. Something you may wanna consider?

Thanks for all the info SDcampowneroperator.

What I am doing has nothing to do with the oil boom. It's just preparation for some long term touring that will include extended stays at high elevations at National parks and a long trip to Alaska. In a few cases I expect to see some pretty chilly temps but below zero is what I am getting away from. But the insulation will also help in the heat too.

I also want to insulate the storage areas a bit but am still thinking about the best way to accomplish that without stealing too much space or making storing difficult.

I like your ideas and appreciate you sharing them.

Thanks to all

I covered all three of my tanks with Reflectix -- a minimal insulating material, but better than nothing. I used pipe straps to hold it on. We just spent a week at Kodachrome Basin in Utah in single digit temps at night, with no problem. But it was in the high 30s every day, so this was not in Arctic conditions at all.

Heat cable typically draws 5 watts/', so 50' is 250watts. Waterbed heaters? I think about 150watts each. Thats 800 watts when all are on at the same time, or > 6 amps @120 v.
Now remember heat goes up, so this heat will give you a warmer floor, thus rig. It aint lost heat.
I cabled those heaters under my sink so that when on the road, I plugged them into my 1500w inverter. With the truck running to power the inverter, furnace on at 50 I drove through weather of -20f without freezing.
As soon as I had shore power, I'd switch the heat cables from the inverter to a 120vac plug. Never a problem with overloading the 30 a service.
The pvc material I used to thicken the frame to acommodate 1 1/2 foam is home trim for garage doors, 'brick mold' or similar split on a table saw, like you find at any good home building supply. Attach to the frame with long sdst screws, the type with 'wings' to bore out the wood before hitting steel. Attach the coroplast to the pvc with ordinary pan head wood screws through a metal holding strip that spreads strength and seals it to the frame. Caulk it well to seal any gaps.
Critical to living in an rv in extreme cold weather is to vent moisture, dehumidify to prevent condensation in the walls and ceiling which defeats the best insulation, will rot your rig.

Coroplast in one piece, I had to order then from an rv dealer.
Do it this way,skirting is a waste of money and will not do you half as good of job.
BTW, pm me. I know a bit about ND Bakken
Max,
retired welding boss, HC Price , ua 798 ,254

Dodger, see the other thread, seat 'heater --> tank heater'. Maybe you'll get some ideas.

SDcampowneroperator,

Where did you get the 'Coroplast', I've been unable to find a distributor.

Thanks,
Doug

Thanks SDcampowneroperator. The water bed heater is an intriguing idea but those suckers really pull the Amps dont' they? And since the heat tape is just one long resistor it also pulls a lot of power...have you had any issues with the added amps?

I found the same material that the TT Mfgs use as underbody cover at Home Depot and the water proof R10 insulation. Looks like I can do the entire thing for about $400.

My water tanks are all exposed on the Underside and I was going to put a thick rubber mat on the underside of each for protection and insulation.

Thanks for the ideas!

yup.
did it on a new '97 HR 32 wfs TT. Dropped the aluminum skin, traced all water lines, the pump with heat cables, placed oldwaterbed heaters under the tanks. used solid pvc dimensional lumber to 'thicken ' the frame to accomodate an 1'1/2 foam. then re underbellied the rig with 'Coroplast'
Survived -43f in Whitecourt, Ab., the winter of 2000 without freezing.
Max