Was tired if the Chinese Made Whirlpool not discharging all the water at the end of cycle. It would work for a while then not. Called Whirlpool thew only suggested service and was out of warranty. I decided it was not worth throwing at least $3-400 out the window to fix it especially after doing research on the net about the problem. I cleaned the filter but it was already clean.Doing research the Bosch 500 series kept coming up highly rated. It's actually 220V 20A. My dryer is 220V and if it were a Bosch the washer would plug right into the dryer. My dryer and new washer use 26A combined so it was a no brainer to tap the dryer junction box as shown.Oh always read directions! I did not take out the shipping bolt/plugs on the back, it was like a 7.0 earthquake with the first load. THEN I read the detections. It washes MUCH better and runs MUCH smoother than the old one!Oh I found another POS DRV item, the dryer 4 sq metal box was NOT grounded!

Just to recap. Washer broke, out of warranty, decided better value to replace than repair. OK, sounds like a decision people make every single day. What I don't understand is where the value is in getting a 220 volt washer? That would render it useless in almost every residential application without some rewiring and I don't believe your solution meets NEC code. Also, I don't believe it would be a practical choice for an RV since the washer would be inoperative when connected to anything other than properly phased 50 AMP Pedestals. But hey, thanks for the post, otherwise it's been a slow day at the forums.

tmartin000 wrote:Which RV has these in them?Hint: before asking, click on the "View Profile" link under the poster's name, on the left side of the post.

They both can be disconnected right at the appliances. Combined they are well within the 30A rating of the breaker and wiring. Any 50A park power will power them both. If boon docking I have a "commercial" 6500LP Cummins/Onan gen. If paying for my power it is much lex expensive to run 220V VS 110V.220V dryer is an option on DRV RV's. Rolling Retreats offers the 220V gen as an option after I discovered that the standard 6500 Gen is single phase. If boon docking I run the gen. If in a Campground I run will run the gen but that is VERY unlikely as I don't frequent 30A parks.

mike-s wrote:tmartin000 wrote:Which RV has these in them?Hint: before asking, click on the "View Profile" link under the poster's name, on the left side of the post.Or just look at the bottom of my original post.It's a 2016 39TKSB3 MobileSuites.

Junk Washer out Quality Washer in! | Good Sam Community

Roadpilot
Explorer
Oct 09, 2016
Both our washer and dryer are 220 vac. We rarely are on 30 amp sites and if we are we probably couldn't run the washer or dryer due to other loads. On 50 amp it's no problem since it's 220 and if boondocking we run our generator to do washes.
bob_nestor
Explorer III
Oct 09, 2016
westernrvparkowner wrote:
Just to recap. Washer broke, out of warranty, decided better value to replace than repair. OK, sounds like a decision people make every single day. What I don't understand is where the value is in getting a 220 volt washer? That would render it useless in almost every residential application without some rewiring and I don't believe your solution meets NEC code. Also, I don't believe it would be a practical choice for an RV since the washer would be inoperative when connected to anything other than properly phased 50 AMP Pedestals. But hey, thanks for the post, otherwise it's been a slow day at the forums.

The washer plugs into the dryer so both can run off a single 220 outlet found in most homes and it doesn't violate NEC code. (All of the manufacturers of compact units do this.) But if you'd prefer 110v compact washer/dryers look at the Electrolux/Frigidare line. Also, all the compact washer dryers I've looked at are ventless, making them a good choice for a small space not originally designed for external venting.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Oct 09, 2016
mike-s wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
I just took this off my above post.
Nope. That's not in your post. That's part of your signature, and people won't see it unless they have "Show members signatures when viewing topics" turned on in their preferences.

Ok thanks for that!

I have it out there so I guess if anyone wants to see it they need to get "turned on". ;)
mike-s
Explorer
Oct 09, 2016
Cummins12V98 wrote:
I just took this off my above post.
Nope. That's not in your post. That's part of your signature, and people won't see it unless they have "Show members signatures when viewing topics" turned on in their preferences.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Oct 09, 2016
mike-s wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
mike-s wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Or just look at the bottom of my original post.
???

Everyones first post will show info if they have it added.
And have you even looked at your first post, let alone added to it? There is nothing there which shows what you're pulling.

I just took this off my above post.

2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD
mike-s
Explorer
Oct 09, 2016
Cummins12V98 wrote:
mike-s wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Or just look at the bottom of my original post.
???

Everyones first post will show info if they have it added.
And have you even looked at your first post, let alone added to it? There is nothing there which shows what you're pulling.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Oct 09, 2016
Lantley wrote:
westernrvparkowner wrote:
Just to recap. Washer broke, out of warranty, decided better value to replace than repair. OK, sounds like a decision people make every single day. What I don't understand is where the value is in getting a 220 volt washer? That would render it useless in almost every residential application without some rewiring and I don't believe your solution meets NEC code. Also, I don't believe it would be a practical choice for an RV since the washer would be inoperative when connected to anything other than properly phased 50 AMP Pedestals. B.

You maybe correct that he needs 50 amp service to operate his washer dryer. But can you do any washing on a 30 amp circuit?
Sure you can wash but don't plan on doing much else. Especially in the summer time if you need AC.
Seems to me if your running a washer/dryer you need 50 amp service for the most part to avoid tripping breakers regardless of the appliance's voltage.
My Splendid equipment is 110 volts. I really can't do any laundry on a 30 amp site without tripping something. Not to mention 110 dryers are no very efficient.
I'm not sure why you are debating his choice. Seems logical to me.
But hey, thanks for the post, otherwise it's been a slow day at the forums.

I can not use my washer or dryer on 30A since it's single phase. I don't plan on being on 30A but if I do I have a gen.

Washer is 12A and dryer is 14A. That means both legs will have either 12 or 14 A on them if using one at a time. I have 3 AC's I had no problem running all three with washer running on one leg and dryer running 14A when I had a 110V washer. Sure I turned the WH to gas.

220V is much more efficient, it's not for everyone tho!
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Oct 09, 2016
mike-s wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Or just look at the bottom of my original post.
???

Everyones first post will show info if they have it added.
mike-s
Explorer
Oct 09, 2016
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Or just look at the bottom of my original post.
???
Lantley
Nomad
Oct 09, 2016
westernrvparkowner wrote:
Just to recap. Washer broke, out of warranty, decided better value to replace than repair. OK, sounds like a decision people make every single day. What I don't understand is where the value is in getting a 220 volt washer? That would render it useless in almost every residential application without some rewiring and I don't believe your solution meets NEC code. Also, I don't believe it would be a practical choice for an RV since the washer would be inoperative when connected to anything other than properly phased 50 AMP Pedestals. B.

You maybe correct that he needs 50 amp service to operate his washer dryer. But can you do any washing on a 30 amp circuit?
Sure you can wash but don't plan on doing much else. Especially in the summer time if you need AC.
Seems to me if your running a washer/dryer you need 50 amp service for the most part to avoid tripping breakers regardless of the appliance's voltage.
My Splendid equipment is 110 volts. I really can't do any laundry on a 30 amp site without tripping something. Not to mention 110 dryers are no very efficient.
I'm not sure why you are debating his choice. Seems logical to me.
But hey, thanks for the post, otherwise it's been a slow day at the forums.

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