Proper method to install tie down anchors on roof?

[juggledog]

I need to install some tie down anchors on the edge of my RV roof. Here are the ones I'm thinking of purchasing:

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Cleat-Cargo-Anchor-Trailer/dp/B00R57781U/

I'm nervous to drill into the roof, this is my first RV. It's a 2005 Class C Fourwinds 5000.

Can someone please explain the proper step by step method I need to follow to properly install these (like how do I find the side frame on the roof to make sure I'm drilling into the proper place?), and make sure the holes don't end up leaking (what product to use for sealant, etc). I'm a complete newbie.

thank you

[bighatnohorse]

It depends on how the roof is constructed.
Many roofs are simply 1/8" ply over foam along with some structural cross beams.
For my solar panel mounting I used well nuts. (Google them on YouTube to see how they work)
The entire roof will have to tear off before those well nuts pull out. Yes, I used Dicor over the top of the well nut bolts.

[juggledog]

thanks for the link. I just ordered it. Wish me luck!

IAMICHABOD wrote:

juggledog wrote:


Can you show me which Dicor I should purchase? Are they available at Home Depot?

This is what you need.I have never seen it at Home Depot,they do have it at Camping World.

Dicor Self Leveling

[RollandB]

I've not sen Dicor products at Home Centers, they can usually be found at RV stores/dealers or Amazon

[tinner12002]

Hopefully there are cross members in the roof structure that would be best to hit rather than just screwing into the roof sheeting.

[IAMICHABOD]

juggledog wrote:


Can you show me which Dicor I should purchase? Are they available at Home Depot?

This is what you need.I have never seen it at Home Depot,they do have it at Camping World.

Dicor Self Leveling

[juggledog]

Old Duck wrote:
If using Dicor, make sure it's self leveling.

Can you show me which Dicor I should purchase? Are they available at Home Depot?

[westend]

Bill.Satellite wrote:

westend wrote:
Drilling through Eternabond tape will encapsulate the screw head and seal the hole.

I hope their video works. It shows the screw driven through the tape and an aluminum trim piece.

I might even think about VHB tape and then sealant if I was doing this.

The link references Etherabond Putty Tape which is different than Eternabond used to seal seams and the like. Using some Dicor caulk under the cleat will seal it up just as well.

It does but I've fastened through Eternabond Roof Tape and the Eternabond Flex Seal tape and results were the same. Try it yourself, when fastening through these tapes, the adhesive climbs up the threads and encapsulates the screw head. I'm not making a judgement between Dicor and these tapes for sealing. I know what each do and there's no call on my end.

[RollandB]

If using Dicor, make sure it's self leveling.

[Bill_Satellite]

westend wrote:
Drilling through Eternabond tape will encapsulate the screw head and seal the hole.

I hope their video works. It shows the screw driven through the tape and an aluminum trim piece.

I might even think about VHB tape and then sealant if I was doing this.

The link references Etherabond Putty Tape which is different than Eternabond used to seal seams and the like. Using some Dicor caulk under the cleat will seal it up just as well.

[diveman52]

What ever you do make sure you anchor to a structural member.
At the most you only have 3/8" plywood or OSB to anchor to and it won't hold much.

[westend]

Drilling through Eternabond tape will encapsulate the screw head and seal the hole.

I hope their video works. It shows the screw driven through the tape and an aluminum trim piece.

I might even think about VHB tape and then sealant if I was doing this.

[agesilaus]

If you use self tapping screws you won't need to drill a hole. Just put the right bit in your drill motor and drive the screws right into the wood. I just showed that bit so you can see what I mean. Those roofing screws are hex headed and you drive them with a bit like that. Your local hardware store will sell them individually so you can get one the right size. They are often 5/16" but not always.

I'd mark the screw hole locations. Start the screws--drive them in maybe a 1/4 inch and remove the screws. Coat the bottom of the cleat with Dicor, position it over the holes and then drive the screws all the way in. That should seal the cleat.

The reason for doing it this way is that the cleat may be hard to control, that is will be slippery, with the sealant on it. So pre-drilling the hole part way prevents that from being a problem. The screw inserted into the hole will control the location of the cleat. Not putting the screw all the way in gives you the tightest possible fit in the hole it creates. Do not over drive the screws that will ream out the hole and give you a poor fit.

Thinking about it I would use 1 inch long screws max, since I don't know how thick that roof is. Using these roofing screws you won't have to worry about them corroding. They are coated and designed to exposed to weather. Stainless screws are weaker and you have to worry about wringing the head off the screw when you drive them.

[juggledog]

agesilaus wrote:
Link to cleats: ***Link Removed***

You would want to use Dicor sealant under the cleats: ***Link Removed***

I'd use the largest self tapping screw that fits into the holes on the cleats. Maybe 1 1/2" long but you don't want to go thru the roof so that may be too long. Something like this: ***Link Removed***

However my concern is just what do you plan to carry up there, how much does it weigh. That roof is not designed to be load bearing. And I have my doubts about how strong those cleats will be. Don't forget you are going to have the wind load to deal with besides the weight of whatever you carry. At 60 mph that wind load can be substantial.

If I was installing them on a boat I would drill thru the roof and put a metal backing plate in on the ceiling side with machine screws passing thru the roof. Not practical in this case.

The anchors will not be used to carry heavy weights, only to hang tarp off the side, it just has to handle high gusts of wind - that's why I can't use the awning.

thank you for the suggestions.

A followup question: Regarding the Dicor sealant under the cleat, just to clarify, you recommend I lay down the sealant, place the cleat on top of sealant, then drill the holes through the sealant, correct? Do I wait for everything to dry first? Should I apply more sealant after the screws have been drilled through?

[Bumpyroad]

don't put anything valuable in whatever you put on the roof. as stated, that wind will eventually loosen the screws.
bumpy