Rebuilding a 5th wheel from the frame up.

[meinook]

I bought a pretty cheap 32' toy hauler last summer and found a lot of water damage (rot, mold, mildew and smell). After getting into it I've decided to only way to completely rid the smell is to rebuild the entire thing from the metal frame up. Building what we want is more important than cost as this is a keeper trailer. So if it takes 2-3 years so be it.

I'd like a place to document the journey where people will be interested, answer questions, make suggestions, discuss options and most importantly NOT flame me for taking this on. I just want to share my project with others. And, with my "jack of all trades master of none" history, this is going to be pretty easy.

So, is there any interest in this here?

Blog started: Rebuild blog

[tinner12002]

Personally, I wouldn't be afraid to use a heavier, 18-16 gauge metal stud either, lighter weight and as strong if not stronger. Using either in 2x4 size, you could always turn them 90 degrees if you needed a larger/wider footprint.

[frankwp]

BobsYourUncle wrote:
Watch the weight!
Remember, you're going to drag this thing down the highway. You don't want it to be overweight. Every pound counts.

KD spruce is strong yet lightweight.
Using strong alternatives, LVL, fir or others will substantially add extra weight when it isn't necessary.

Stick with KD spruce, fasten it well and use lotsa glue and physically join all studs to the plates. Once it's cut and fastened it will stay straight for the most part.

When I did my TT I used a one inch crown staple gun and shot all studs to the plates, both sides, one staple leg in the studs, one in the plate, 2 per side. Also ran a #8 X 3 inch decking screw up through the plates into every stud after applying copious quantities of glue first.
The wall paneling inside was also glued on to the studs and plates prior to stapling it in place.

Every lumber yard I ever go to always carries KD spruce.

Bob makes a very good point about the weight. I love LVL for all the reasons I listed, but it is heavier than spruce. You're just going to have to do some picking to get the good stuff & when you rip those 2x4s, a certain number of them are going to turn into pretzels. A proper lumber yard will often have better quality wood than the home centers.

Polyurethane construction adhesive would be a good choice for gluing the plates to the studs.

[westend]

Ripping good quality studs for 2 x 2's works well.

If I had one piece of advice it would be to draw out mechanical plans. They don't need to be CAD (that does make a neat drawing) but they will help you schedule the installation of wiring, insulation, appliances, etc. It's no fun to rip back out your carefully placed panels or insulation because you forgot the installation of entertainment wire, for example.

I used Eternabond tapes on the roof and I'd advise anyone to do the same if you don't want leaks. The siding I sealed with Geocel Tripolymer sealant. Proflex RV is one of those sealants. After completion, I tested for leaks by pressurizing the interior with a furnace blower.

[BobsYourUncle]

Watch the weight!
Remember, you're going to drag this thing down the highway. You don't want it to be overweight. Every pound counts.

KD spruce is strong yet lightweight.
Using strong alternatives, LVL, fir or others will substantially add extra weight when it isn't necessary.

Stick with KD spruce, fasten it well and use lotsa glue and physically join all studs to the plates. Once it's cut and fastened it will stay straight for the most part.

When I did my TT I used a one inch crown staple gun and shot all studs to the plates, both sides, one staple leg in the studs, one in the plate, 2 per side. Also ran a #8 X 3 inch decking screw up through the plates into every stud after applying copious quantities of glue first.
The wall paneling inside was also glued on to the studs and plates prior to stapling it in place.

Every lumber yard I ever go to always carries KD spruce.

[Rvpapa]

You will only find Spruce at the home stores. Look for Fir, very stiff and stays straight much better. Thats what was used for aircraft.
Art.

[frankwp]

I've used LVL, cut down to whatever size I need when straightness, stability & strength are important. It's a little more expensive than buying 2x2s, but no where near the waste due to warping, knots & spliting.

[meinook]

If I can't find enough straight 2x2's at the home stores I'll try ripping KD 2x4's and hope they stay straight.

[tinner12002]

Are you going to stay with what looks like 2 x 2 studs or are you going to use 2 x 4s?? Looks interesting!

[buta4]

You may want to consider renting an Ozone Generator.

[meinook]

Bob E. wrote:
Yeah...a lot of searching for sure. That's why I was asking for your shortcuts! HAHA!!

Best advice is to look for surplus dealers in your area. I drove 950 miles round trip, stayed the night and still saved tons over shipping. I'm reusing the store/oven, microwave, heater, kitchen sink and wire but everything else will be new.

[Bob_E_]

Yeah...a lot of searching for sure. That's why I was asking for your shortcuts! HAHA!!

[meinook]

The recent parts came from Stardeck RV in Corona CA. They are surplus at $1/inch of the longest side. We drove down over the weekend to pick them out. Other parts (siding, vents, skylight, screws) are from Amazon, eBay or whoever has the best price. A LOT of searching.

We replaced the windows to go tinted and sliding (old ones where clear and crank) and the door to get rounded corners.

[Bob_E_]

meinook wrote:
I'm almost finished with the Sketch Up design, the trailer is striped to the frame and I'm still trying to figure out the blog process.

I bought the windows, door, torsion hinge, 4 cargo doors and the underbelly fabric last weekend. Next up is removing the old load door springs, wire wheel and paint the rust areas before building the sub-floor.

Thanks for the update. I'm so excited to follow your build since I'm essentially doing the same thing but with a bumper pull. You are slightly ahead of me. The inside is gutted and I just started pulling the windows and doors. I'm planning to reuse the windows and I'm on the fence about the doors since they are kind of rough. But I'm taking it down to the frame like you are doing. I will be beefing up the frame, adding a 3rd axle, and building a slide-out. Really, my intent is to copy the Stryker 2916 floor plan as closely as possible, but with a tri-axle setup.

Where are you buying your parts and supplies?

[meinook]

I'm almost finished with the Sketch Up design, the trailer is striped to the frame and I'm still trying to figure out the blog process.

I bought the windows, door, torsion hinge, 4 cargo doors and the underbelly fabric last weekend. Next up is removing the old load door springs, wire wheel and paint the rust areas before building the sub-floor.

[Bob_E_]

Any progress to report on this build?