Relocating and rewiring bath fan switch

I used decorative stick-on conduit from Home Depot and ran from the vent, down the wall to a small switch box.

I was unsuccessful in fishing wire across the ceiling and down the wall.

Chevyman2006 wrote:
1) What type of switch do I need to buy?2) What's the process of doing this?

I'd use a standard household light switch. Step 2, finding where the wires are.

My RV came without any wall switches and I have installed several wall switches. I was able to run the wires in the ceiling and walls. I used standard wall switches and they have been there for about 10 years with no problems.

Mostly I was able to find the wires to the lights in the wall and install the switch nearby. The exception was the bathroom light where I did have to run the wire in the ceiling for a short distance. I managed to poke a hole thru the Styrofoam.

If you can fish a wire down to where you want the switch, most RV parts places will have wall switches that will match the other switches in your trailer. It is just a simple 12v circuit, but use 14 or 16 gauge wire. I couldn't fish the wire, so I just made a stick from a piece of plastic waterpipe and a cap, so that DW(short) can push the on/off button. Other end is notched to raise and lower cover.

Thanks y'all...guess I was making it more difficult than it needed to be.

The stick also works when you are sitting on the john, and realize the need to open the vent and turn on the fan. Hangs on a hook next to the john. Unless you install the power vent with a remote.

I added a standard 12 volt RV wall switch. Before that, I replaced the push button switch with a pull chain switch.

Why not use a wireless remote. What about something like this:
wireless 12 volt switch

We went another direction and used a simple timer like THIS
It's great to get out of the shower and leave the fan running for 30~40 minutes to dry everything out.

You can get a single 12 volt switch for RVs online or from a local dealer.

If you have a thermostat on a wall outside the bathroom or a holding tank indicator or GFCI on a wall inside the bathroom, there probably is a hole in the horizontal top plate of the wall that you can fish new wires through. Take down the trim around the fan and if needed, ceiling light or AC grille to give you access into the ceiling cavity. Then use a wire coat hanger, piece of #14 wire or an electrician's fish tape to get new low voltage wire from the switch to the fan. Once in a while or for longer runs there may be an obstruction where you will need patience and numerous attempts to do it. If needed, you can enlarge the hole behind a ceiling mounted light for better access.

We have a Fan-Tastic ceiling fan in the bathroom (with remote) and normally have it running on low most of the time except for showering. A separate wall switch will allow you to have it running by itself or you could tie the light and fan together on the same switch.

After you've figured it out, you will know how to add wall switches for all of your ceiling lights if you want. Once in a while, you may need to go down and through a cabinet and back up to get new wiring installed. I've run lots of various wiring around inside the ceiling and up/down walls. Below are switches I added for the bedroom lights and a 3-way for the kitchen/living area ceiling lights using an existing hole in the top plate. It is really annoying when for a few extra $$ they could install wall switches at the factory.