Replacing Floor

Another thing to think about besides seasonal changes in humidity & temp. is that the greater thickness of engineered wood laminate could possibly interfere with cabinet doors, entry door sill, toilet gasket, etc. I installed ABS laminate (similar to vinyl) in a previous TT and despite the laminate thickness being only about 1/8", I had to raise cabinet doors. Free-floating is what you need with an expansion gap all around.

RVs are often not plumb, level, straight or square and you may even find it necessary to scribe cut lines. Cutting non-straight lines in vinyl laminate is going to be a lot easier and faster than with engineered wood.

ElBigDodgeO wrote:

westend wrote:
Brand, type, and model of material to be used would be helpful.

Most interlocking engineered plank is made to stay together when floated. Using a good underlayment helps the situation.

FWIW, I installed the cheapest laminate Lumber Liquidators had on sale a few years ago. All of it is still in good shape. I used a quality underlayment even though the laminate plank had attached backing.

I saw your story, skimmed all 38 pages. Awesome job on that old camper. But you didn't include much detail on how you did the flooring.

Sorry, when you do something hundreds of times, details don't seem that important. I installed flooring, exclusively, for about 7 years.

I'm sure any of the big sellers of interlocking flooring have comprised instructions better than I can. There is just not that much to it--snap together plank and cut last strip to accommodate space.

One of the variables with engineered interlocking flooring is the amount of moisture it can withstand when installed. Choosing a product that is sealed well or has the ability to be sealed is a good thing. A good underlayment helps control the moisture transfer, also.

If the installation is done correctly, movement of the RV should be inconsequential, it won't shake the planks apart. Moisture and swelling/shrinking will cause more problems. If you live or travel in an area that has high humidity, the all-vinyl products may be a better choice. Although, I've installed conventional composite engineered flooring in beachside property in Hawaii, where window screen frames won't even last.

westend wrote:
Brand, type, and model of material to be used would be helpful.

Most interlocking engineered plank is made to stay together when floated. Using a good underlayment helps the situation.

FWIW, I installed the cheapest laminate Lumber Liquidators had on sale a few years ago. All of it is still in good shape. I used a quality underlayment even though the laminate plank had attached backing.

I saw your story, skimmed all 38 pages. Awesome job on that old camper. But you didn't include much detail on how you did the flooring.

buc1980 wrote:
I replace the carpet with laminate and it solid like a rock.And still look good after 2 years.

Did you float it or tack it down? Seems like good underlayment is important. I'll check out the manufacturer web site for recommendations. Thx.

I replace the carpet with laminate and it solid like a rock.And still look good after 2 years.

Brand, type, and model of material to be used would be helpful.

Most interlocking engineered plank is made to stay together when floated. Using a good underlayment helps the situation.

FWIW, I installed the cheapest laminate Lumber Liquidators had on sale a few years ago. All of it is still in good shape. I used a quality underlayment even though the laminate plank had attached backing.