Forum Discussion

naturist's avatar
naturist
Nomad
Aug 16, 2020

solar for your RV

So I was poking around this morning on Amazon, and I see that the parts to add solar to your RV have made doing so *really* competitive with generators, not just in long term operating costs, but in up-front installation/purchase costs.

Solar has always had a huge advantage in terms of long-term maintenance and operating costs (no gas, no oil, no spark plugs, etc.). With the added advantage of silence, blessed silence, while "running."

But consider the case of the RVer who just wants to keep his/her battery charged, and doesn't need to try to run an AC. Such a person needs only a small generator such as a 2000 watt class generator, which costs maybe $400 to $1,000 depending on what/where/when you buy. Then of course, you have to gas it up. And take precautions against it being stolen.

So I see on Amazon a 200 watt, 24 volt monocrystalline solar panel for $206 (don't panic, folks, perfect for charging your 12 volt batteries, explained below), and a 20 amp MPPT charge controller for $150 (takes up to 150 volts DC and converts it to the perfect 13-14.5 volts to charge and maintain your battery). Throw in mounting hardware, wires, etc. and you are looking at $400 for a system that will suit nearly everyone with a single (or even double) 12 volt "deep cycle" battery of the sort that comes with most trailers these days. It'll even handle the 125 AH true deep cycle AGM upgrade you really want.

Or, heck, go cheap and buy two 100 watt 12 volt polycrystalline panels from Lowes for $160, wire them in series, and now we are talking $350 for whole ball of wax.

So, boys 'n' girls, the alternative to that noisy, smelly, expensive-to-run Honda 2000 is at hand. Just sayin' . . . .
  • valhalla360's avatar
    valhalla360
    Navigator
    Aug 17, 2020
    pianotuna wrote:
    Vahalla360,

    I don't find generators reliable. My first RV was a class C diesel from 1987. It had a 30 watt solar system from 1992 that cost $1700.00 If it was below freezing, the RV required the block heater to be run before it would start. That started me on generators.

    I got a Kipor 2800 watt. That unit was not bad--and did last from 2000 until 2009. I had to have it repaired 4 times. I replaced it when it would no longer output the full wattage.

    The replacement was a Boliy. It did not last through the first trip. I had two expert mechanics work on it--but it just would not keep running.

    My next RV was a 2004 Ford E-450 chassis. No need for the block heater--and the solar kept the starter battery in good shape. I went for five years with no generator at all.

    Then I went full time, and 256 watts was not enough. I made a mistake and I got a Yamaha 3000 iSEB. It lived on a rack on the back of my class C. That is, until someone cut through the hardened steel security cable.

    I replaced it with another. I have a custom cage that it lives in. That and another new custom made bumper cost $2500.00

    All in all, if I add up what I have paid for generators, maintenance, and repairs, I could have had a big enough solar system and enough battery storage to run my roof air. Likely that would include running the water heater, too.

    My solar system, which cost $1700 in 2005, simply continues to work, with NOT one fault ever. And that, is what I call, reliable.


    If all you need is to keep the starting battery up and a few light loads, I agree. Solar is the way to go.

    I would strongly discount any generator or solar costs older than 10yrs...they simply aren't comparable to the modern situation.

    We have a 2007 Yamaha 2400...only recently have we had any issue. At idle it surges a bit. Probably need the carb cleaned out but once loaded, it smooths right out. Only ever did oil changes on it. But to compare costs...that was around $1800. Just helped a friend pick a generator and he got a 3100w dual fuel Champion for $700. Of course, these were purchased not to charge the starting battery but to run the air/con units. While technically possible on solar, it's a pretty extensive system to have air/con in an large RV in hot weather on demand.
  • StirCrazy's avatar
    StirCrazy
    Moderator
    Aug 17, 2020
    pianotuna wrote:
    Hi Steve,

    Is that a grape solar controller?


    no I went with this one

    then bought the bluetooth module for it. I wanted a MPPT controler so I could go for a 24v panel and get the maximum charge out of it. I have it mounted in the closet so I an use the app on my phone to do custom settings or what not.

    Steve
  • StirCrazy's avatar
    StirCrazy
    Moderator
    Aug 16, 2020
    I just purchased a 120 split cell 325 watt 24v pannel, 40 amp charge controler with bluetooth, mounts wires and such (everything I need to add it to my camper) for about 550 cdn so 9.90 US ;) I cant buy a quiet gen for that up here the honda starts at 1000.00 .

    I have had my 480 watt solare set up in my 5th wheel for 4 years now, dont need power unless we are having to run the AC.

    Steve
  • pianotuna's avatar
    pianotuna
    Nomad III
    Aug 16, 2020
    Vahalla360,

    I don't find generators reliable. My first RV was a class C diesel from 1987. It had a 30 watt solar system from 1992 that cost $1700.00 If it was below freezing, the RV required the block heater to be run before it would start. That started me on generators.

    I got a Kipor 2800 watt. That unit was not bad--and did last from 2000 until 2009. I had to have it repaired 4 times. I replaced it when it would no longer output the full wattage.

    The replacement was a Boliy. It did not last through the first trip. I had two expert mechanics work on it--but it just would not keep running.

    My next RV was a 2004 Ford E-450 chassis. No need for the block heater--and the solar kept the starter battery in good shape. I went for five years with no generator at all.

    Then I went full time, and 256 watts was not enough. I made a mistake and I got a Yamaha 3000 iSEB. It lived on a rack on the back of my class C. That is, until someone cut through the hardened steel security cable.

    I replaced it with another. I have a custom cage that it lives in. That and another new custom made bumper cost $2500.00

    All in all, if I add up what I have paid for generators, maintenance, and repairs, I could have had a big enough solar system and enough battery storage to run my roof air. Likely that would include running the water heater, too.

    My solar system, which cost $1700 in 2005, simply continues to work, with NOT one fault ever. And that, is what I call, reliable.
  • KD4UPL's avatar
    KD4UPL
    Explorer
    Aug 16, 2020
    Those prices are really high for solar panels. You can get panels for about 50 cents a watt. The 60 cell panels are around 300 to 350 watts not. You can find them for well under $200.
  • valhalla360's avatar
    valhalla360
    Navigator
    Aug 16, 2020
    Solar has been a reasonable cost option for many years... if your electrical needs are negligible.

    200w of solar panel will generate typically something around 800w-hr of power per day or about 66amp-hr @ 12v but in reality efficiency losses, you can probably expect about 50amp-hr actually making it into the battery. If you just want to run a few lights for a couple hours and charge a phone, perfectly feasible.

    Of course, if you camp in a shady area or the weather is overcast, you may get little or nothing, so if you want reliable power, you need to still carry the generator or you need a battery bank capable of multiple days of operation.

    If all you want is 800w-hr per day, I would look at a little 1000w inverter generator with a charger sized accordingly. Now you can find generators under $200. You have power on demand at around 25lb and very quiet.


    As you get to 2000w and above, the reason to get a generator is you want to run more substantial loads.
  • naturist's avatar
    naturist
    Nomad
    Aug 16, 2020
    For what it is worth, most of the small TTs I've seen have come with and/or are equipped with a single 12 volt "marine deep cycle" battery with about 75-80 AH capacity. These batteries are slightly enhanced starting batteries, not true deep cycle batteries, and their main benefit is they are cheap, around $80 or so, which is why RV dealers provide them. Such a battery can at most provide you with 40 AH (or 480 watt-hours) of power without seriously degrading their useful life. A 100 watt solar panel will give you around 400 watt-hours per average day, enough for most. If you want to be really prepared even for a couple rainy days in a row, 200 watts of solar panels are plenty.

    @Devocamper has a point about portable solar panels. The drawbacks to portable are two: (1) they require your attention to set up/take down, and (2) being portable, they are subject to theft. Permanent mounted panels and system have the drawback of being ineffective if shaded. It's a tradeoff. You pays your money and takes your choices.

    I got carried away and built myself a 400 watt semi-portable solar system earlier this year (blame it on the COVID). 4-100 watt panels, two 125 AH AGMs, on a hand truck. The whole thing weighs a little over 200 lbs, but can power 1,600 watt-hours daily usage worth of stuff indefinitely. I added a 2200 watt (4400 watt surge) PSW inverter. The thing is capable of running my RV's AC, although not overnight.

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