Vinyl flooring - plank or sheet??

[rambleonrose]

Hey folks

As soon as the weather cooperates and we can seal the roof, a new floor goes in!

We're wanting to go the vinyl route, but with all the research I've done, I can't find enough info on what's better for an RV - vinyl stick planks, or the more traditional sheet.

I have seen a few pics here where the sheet split - I'm in upstate NY, so weather is a big factor to my decision.

But.... how's that vinyl plank for moisture control? Was leaning towards sheet because there are no gaps, but I shudder at the notion of all the work and then a crack after the first winter! I like the idea of the plank/tile installation, as it seems way more familiar to me, having done floating wood floor and the like, but I'm worried with the temp expansion/contractions the gaps will be bigger, and any spills can wreak more havoc.

Also, regardless of type, going on top of particle board sub floor, is there a moisture barrier to put down as well?

Any tips or tricks on either of these would be extremely helpful for our decision!
TIA!

[Cummins12V98]

Simply try to replace one of your damaged snap/lock tiles when it's damaged.

[jfkmk]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
NO snap together stuff! LVT is "Luxury Vinyl Tile". It needs to be glued down. It is a heavy duty tile that is at least 1/8" thick. NOT cheap!

Pic above is mine at the Factory, it has square edges that are butted together and glued.

Just like the glued tile, the LVP comes in many varieties. The tongue and groove LVP I just installed is quite thick and rigid. At 2.25 lbs./sq ft, it is substantial. And believe me, it is by no means cheap!

[rambleonrose]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
NO snap together stuff! LVT is "Luxury Vinyl Tile". It needs to be glued down. It is a heavy duty tile that is at least 1/8" thick. NOT cheap!

Pic above is mine at the Factory, it has square edges that are butted together and glued.

Thanks for the clarification! I've done the groove/snap installation before, with wood flooring. Not hard, but a pain. Tiles sound easier.

[Cummins12V98]

NO snap together stuff! LVT is "Luxury Vinyl Tile". It needs to be glued down. It is a heavy duty tile that is at least 1/8" thick. NOT cheap!

Pic above is mine at the Factory, it has square edges that are butted together and glued.

[rambleonrose]

tomman58 wrote:
Check with your manufacturer and see what they suggest. It's all well and dandy getting advice but if the dealer doesn't use it the there is a reason.

Old Rosie is a ratchet old beast from '86 that I can't even find a user manual for online.

(PS if anyone knows where I can get my hands on a Chevy Crossman by Esquire manual, let me know!!! haha! No really, it's been a time figuring out this old stuff... 😕 )

[rambleonrose]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
The LVT is glued to a plywood substrate, NO gapping is required.

When you say LVT is glued to a plywood substrate, was that how it came, as in pieces that snap? Or were you the one doing the gluing? I think I'm confused because many things I read are interchanging the terms LVT and LVP, but there's a significant difference in function/installation, as well as price.

According to Lowes and a few other articles I've read, it's a self stick piece, just like the more cheapo vinyl squares - peel the back and stick on floor, and done. Then I have also read about LVP, luxury vinyl PLANK, which is manufactured just like locking hardwood, with grooves that snap, and results in a floating floor. Many suggestions here and elsewhere say the plank is the way to go, but then also refer to it as LVT, which is apparently totally different.

I'm just trying to figure out what to buy, and how much to budget - the tile is obviously cheaper, but for some reason I can't seem to figure out if folks here are talking about the peel and stick vinyl, or the floating snap together vinyl.



Any clarification would be super helpful!

[ktmrfs]

plank flooring will generally be much heavier than vinyl. So make sure you have enough extra CCC to accomidate the extra weight.

plank will be easier to install

There are places near me who do trailer vinyl install. not inexpensive by any means. they make a heavy paper template of the trailer after they cut out the exisiting vinyl the use the template for the new vinyl. Fitting under the slides is tricky. And sometimes they can't do it without at least one seam somewhere.

[Atlee]

rambleonrose wrote:
Hey folks

As soon as the weather cooperates and we can seal the roof, a new floor goes in!

We're wanting to go the vinyl route, but with all the research I've done, I can't find enough info on what's better for an RV - vinyl stick planks, or the more traditional sheet.

I have seen a few pics here where the sheet split - I'm in upstate NY, so weather is a big factor to my decision.

But.... how's that vinyl plank for moisture control? Was leaning towards sheet because there are no gaps, but I shudder at the notion of all the work and then a crack after the first winter! I like the idea of the plank/tile installation, as it seems way more familiar to me, having done floating wood floor and the like, but I'm worried with the temp expansion/contractions the gaps will be bigger, and any spills can wreak more havoc.

Also, regardless of type, going on top of particle board sub floor, is there a moisture barrier to put down as well?

Any tips or tricks on either of these would be extremely helpful for our decision!
TIA!

Unless you can remove all the appliances and furniture, I'd think it'd be very difficult to put down a solid sheet of vinyl flooring. Way too many irregular cuts in the flooring, it seems to me.

Would think individual vinyl plank, or squares would be easier to trim and place.

[tomman58]

Check with your manufacturer and see what they suggest. It's all well and dandy getting advice but if the dealer doesn't use it the there is a reason.

[Cummins12V98]

The LVT is glued to a plywood substrate, NO gapping is required.

[rambleonrose]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Glue down "LVT" (luxury vinyl tile) is the way to go. Not floating or snap together. Easy to lift one and replace if damaged. Installed in many DentalClinics over the years. I have it in current DRV.

Is yours weather controlled, though? Mine will not be. Depending on what temp it is for installation, I could leave the tiniest of gaps between tiles, to accommodate? Maybe wax it, just to fill in those gaps? I don't know, maybe I'm worrying too much about the temp aspect. I'll just be so mad if I don't take it seriously enough, and something happens 😕

[rambleonrose]

Racer12 wrote:
I have a 2011 Cedar Creek and we ordered it with 12 inch by 12 inch vinyl tiles. I have had a couple of them replaced due to damage (droping things), other than that no problems and I live in northern Minnesota

Did you put a vapor or water barrier underneath? And are they glued? The floating floor makes sense for the expansion/contraction issue, but with the thinner tiles, I think glue is all they have...

[Cummins12V98]

Glue down "LVT" (luxury vinyl tile) is the way to go. Not floating or snap together. Easy to lift one and replace if damaged. Installed in many DentalClinics over the years. I have it in current DRV.

[jplante4]

Put in Allure from HoD 2 years ago. Not recommended for installation in non-climate controlled environments. Looks the same now. Use the Grip Strip version not the click together. Leave a gap around the edges and cut around anything that goes through the vinyl into the subfloor. Do not screw or nail through the vinyl. The entire floor needs to move as a unit.