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Why Didn't I Think of This Before?

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
I've been exploring other subjects in this forum, and never gave thought to a key point within my forward thinking mode regarding boondocking in my RV.

I've been preparing for extended trips in 2021, upgrading my electrical system, and solar, but only slightly acknowledging the periodic need for water, nevermind how conservative I might be. I'd thought of a possible modification that could improve this situation, wondered what y'all thought...

My fresh water tank can only be filled using a hose and faucet source. There's no way to add clean water to the tank but for this method. So I wondered, if one could modify the counter to allow for a "drain", perhaps one that could be covered and/or flush with the counter, and routed to the fresh water tank, it could be filled by hand from inside the RV. I keep 8 gallons or so of fresh water inside below the sink, but that's a lot of shifting weight.

If I could empty those 8 gallons of water via a drain to the FW tank, I could instead carry those 8 gallons empty, and save the weight. If needed, they could all be more easily transported somewhere to be filled, and leave the RV sit - if, of course, you have a toad...

Now, while the hose approach sends water through a filter, my modification approach does not, so, you'd want to seek out a verifiable clean source. I get that. Perhaps one could be installed in-line with the drain to the FW tank?

Whadya think?
24 REPLIES 24

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
My RV doesn't have a gravity fill but it does have a vent. Pull the screen from the vent and you can add water using a smaller hose.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

CharlesinGA
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
Why would you avoid putting the water from the jugs into the existing fill port?
Get a second RV water pump and some clear tubing. A couple wires to the battery and you are filling the tank while you make a sandwich.


It seems a fair number of people do just this. Buy a pump like you have in the RV, you will always have a spare. Pump will move water rather fast as it is free flowing and not building pressure.

Charles
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed, PacBrake Exh Brake, std cab, long bed, Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously (both gone) 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180 & 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.

memtb
Explorer
Explorer
Matt, our 5th wheel has a connection for a water hose to directly fill the fresh tank....no valves to open! In fact, every 5th wheel weโ€™ve owned since 1993, had the water hose connection. Our class c has the more typical gravity feed! memtb
Todd & Marianne
Miniature Schnauzer's - Sundai, Nellie & Maggie Mae
2007 Dodge Ram 3500, 6.7 Cummins, 6 speed manual, 3.73 ratio, 4x4
2004 Teton Grand Freedom, 39'
2007 Bigfoot 30MH26Sl

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Matt_Colie wrote:
I have never seen a RV that did not have a gravity/atmospheric potable fill capability. I personally believe that omitting that was an amazing stroke of stupid. How do you winterize it (among other things).


I have such an RV, and it never really seemed to me a grave drawback. Normal filling is via the city water connection (with a pressurized hose), by opening a fill valve. I've yet to encounter a dump station that did not have an associated potable water fill hose/spigot, though doubtless a few do exist somewhere, so I've always just used the pressure fill.

Winterization is performed by a typical winterization suction inlet, sticking a hose into the bottle of antifreeze and pumping it about the pipes. (Actually, I use compressed air to winterize, but that's neither here nor there.) I don't see why one would use a gravity fill to winterize if there were any other options: why put a good bit of antifreeze in the fresh water tank, and then have to take extra steps to rinse it out in the springtime? I'd think it far better in any case to just pump it through the piping and leave the tank empty.

A system with a pressure fill valve and a winterization inlet can (nearly always) be set up to pump water from an external container into the tank by using both at the same time. It's not as quick as a gravity fill, but involves less lifting and pouring.

Matt_Colie
Explorer II
Explorer II
Obiwan,

I have never seen a RV that did not have a gravity/atmospheric potable fill capability. I personally believe that omitting that was an amazing stroke of stupid. How do you winterize it (among other things).

I am not sure what I would do in your case but, if it works out functionally, you could T into the line that is the pump suction from the potable tank and bring it out where you can access it to mount a place that you can pour into.

Good Luck

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.

Roger10378
Explorer II
Explorer II
On of the RV u-tube couples showed using a water bandit with a short hose to add water to there tank from jugs of water that they carried. I think it was Getawaycouple but not 100% sure.
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352
Explorer
Explorer
HERE
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obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
mobeewan wrote:
As recommended by SpeakEasy, use the winterizing connection to fill from your jug. Mine is inside under the sink. I used it with a 7 gallon Aquatainer for a couple days when the temps iced up my fresh water tank under the trailer. The pick up tube in the tank wouldn't draw water from the tank.

If you put a gravity fill in the counter top it will reduce down to the tubing size going to the tank. It will take forever to transfer the water to the tank as it gets restricted and there is no pressure to move the water. Another issue is when using the city water to fill the tank. You run the risk of blowing water all over the galley when the tank fills and the overflow builds up pressure when water comes in faster than the overflow can handle. The water has to go somewhere. Ever have water come out the overflow for a few seconds, even after shutting off the tank fill valve.

Use the winterizing connection to fill from your jug.


Good point, which is one of the reasons I posted this... the ideas and experience speak volumes to me... my fresh tank has an overflow that drains on the opposite side of the MH... when it starts draining there, under the MH, is time to turn off the valve... she's full!

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
This was talked about within the last couple of weeks.
About 5 years ago, I made a device so I can gravity fill at my garden hose pressure fill port. Haven't used it in the last couple years.

Dusty

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
As recommended by SpeakEasy, use the winterizing connection to fill from your jug. Mine is inside under the sink. I used it with a 7 gallon Aquatainer for a couple days when the temps iced up my fresh water tank under the trailer. The pick up tube in the tank wouldn't draw water from the tank.

If you put a gravity fill in the counter top it will reduce down to the tubing size going to the tank. It will take forever to transfer the water to the tank as it gets restricted and there is no pressure to move the water. Another issue is when using the city water to fill the tank. You run the risk of blowing water all over the galley when the tank fills and the overflow builds up pressure when water comes in faster than the overflow can handle. The water has to go somewhere. Ever have water come out the overflow for a few seconds, even after shutting off the tank fill valve.

Use the winterizing connection to fill from your jug.

obiwancanoli
Explorer
Explorer
These are good suggestions, but I'm not a pick up kinda guy...I've no place to put a drum or bladder, pump, etc., though this could be a future upgrade...

Having a gravity fill mounted outside makes good sense, though,,,

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
I opted for the low-tech solution: I carry one of these flexible funnels. Easy to insert into the factory gravity fill and then fill from your water jug or carrier.

memtb
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
Why can't a hose fitting be attached to the pump?

I just can't imagine cutting some port and getting a tube down to the tank.


A water hose connected to pump!! Thatโ€™s what weโ€™ve been doing for many years! A second pump, mounted to a small piece of plywood for stability, wired to plug into our trailer wiring connection on the back of the truck, pump with hose fittings, both suction and discharge. Over the years, weโ€™ve emptied many 55 gallon drums of water into our camper while boondocking. The water hoses give you the capability of not having to park your rig or carry little water jugs right to the side of the camper. Having a bladder in the truck bed, or a 55 gallon drum or two, surely makes extended stays pleasant. With care, we can make 3 weeks on 130 gallons ( camper tank plus 1 drum) of water, before having to drive to a fresh water supply to fill bladder/drum!

Itโ€™s also a plus to have a second pump. Equipment generally fails at the most inconvenient times!

Our biggest challenge has been keeping the water in the drum in a liquid state when nighttime temperatures drop to single digits! memtb
Todd & Marianne
Miniature Schnauzer's - Sundai, Nellie & Maggie Mae
2007 Dodge Ram 3500, 6.7 Cummins, 6 speed manual, 3.73 ratio, 4x4
2004 Teton Grand Freedom, 39'
2007 Bigfoot 30MH26Sl

SpeakEasy
Explorer
Explorer
Do you have an inlet port on the outside of your camper to allow you to pump RV antifreeze into the lines for winterizing? If so, there is a diverter valve on your water pump to switch input from the fresh water tank to that outside port.

If you have this, you can just put an external tank of water next to that input port, run a hose into it, and switch your diverter valve to get water from that source. No need to re-fill your fresh water tank.

EZPZ Presto!

-Speak
It's just Mrs. SpeakEasy and me now (empty-nesters). But we can choose from among 7 grandchildren to drag along with us!



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