50a to 30a question

Use the adapter and treat it just as you would a 30amp unit. Won't hurt a thing in the RV. If you try to run too much you will just blow a breaker just like your existing unit.
Barney

BarneyS wrote:
Use the adapter and treat it just as you would a 30amp unit. Won't hurt a thing in the RV. If you try to run too much you will just blow a breaker just like your existing unit.
Barney

X2

The rig is designed to use more power. Multiple A/Cs, HW, MW, etc and you may want to push that additional button but can't - The 30A pedestal CB will trip.

I added an additional circuit with 2 plugs mostly for ceramic heaters. For 50A pedestal it plugs into an existing basement outlet. For 30A I run an extension cord to the pedestal (most have 30A and 20A outlets). Others have modified a AC power wires so it can be run off of the extension cord. By all means use a heavy extension cord and not the typical home cord.

If you are not aware 50A is 240/120V 4 wire. In RV speak this simply means you have two 50A 120V circuits for the rig or as some like to say 100A available vs the 30A pedestal.

You still should install a 50 surge protector. I did the hardwired one in zoo/dungeon.

This is the one I installed.

https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Industries-Hardwired-Electrical-Protection/dp/B003AN1UA8/ref=pd_cp_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003AN1UA8&pd_rd_r=93f8e1a6-5cfe-11e8-85e9-dbae31ccb6d1&pd_rd_w=uoLlK&pd_rd_wg=18Wss&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=80460301815383741&pf_rd_r=5DX7RV2E8K8FBWWDXWHK&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=5DX7RV2E8K8FBWWDXWHK

While on a 50 amp outlet, if you loose neutral you burn up all your AC items with 240V across them. I did the hardwired one because it protects me from a problem with the powered cord reel for the shore power cable. And it is not going to grow legs.

I would also note that while powering the trailer for dry camping with our Honda eu2000i generator, I have to put a male cord cap with neutral and ground bused together in the generator second outlet for the surge protector switch the power on.

Give serious consideration to installing a EMS to protect against low voltage with is rather common in 30A CGs. I recommend the PI HW50C which also protects against other faults. Don't leave home without it.

Plus per Me Again link I have the remote located inside where it's easy to check when needed. Another neutral problem is the power cord neutral or the CG pedestal neutral as the plugs get worn out.

Be aware that a open neutral on 50A is significantly "worst" than on 30A.

Cloughfam wrote:
....., or if we just need to treat it like we currently do and turn off the AC if we need to run the microwave.

Yes.

Although if you run the fridge and water on propane you can probably run the microwave at the same time the air is running.

CA Traveler wrote:
Give serious consideration to installing a EMS to protect against low voltage with is rather common in 30A CGs. I recommend the PI HW50C which also protects against other faults. Don't leave home without it.

That is the one that I linked in the post I made. Chris

time2roll wrote:

Cloughfam wrote:
....., or if we just need to treat it like we currently do and turn off the AC if we need to run the microwave.

Yes.

Although if you run the fridge and water on propane you can probably run the microwave at the same time the air is running.

X2. Careful planning and only running one A/C and you will have little problem. Worse case you trip the park 30 amp breaker, reset it, remember what you were doing that caused it, and don't do it again.
Been there with our 50 amp 5er.

The biggest difference is that when you overload a 30 amp trailer you will usually trip the breaker in the trailer. When you overload a 50 amp trailer plugged into a 30 amp CG you will always blow the breaker out at the box.