50a to 30a question

[Cloughfam]

Looking towards the future about going from a TT to a FW. One of the models I like the most comes standard with 50a service. Should that be a concern as 99% my wife and I camp where only 30a is available?

Not sure if its detrimental to the lifespan of the appliances, or if we just need to treat it like we currently do and turn off the AC if we need to run the microwave.

Thanks for any help clearing this up for me.

Mike

[Lantley]

As long as the 50 amp RV does not require both A/C's to stay cool in the hot summer months you'll be OK. 50 amps sort of makes you lazy because it allows you to run just about anything you want without fear of blowing breakers. Both A/C's microwave, and water heater no issues. To some degree you can get spoiled by 50 amps. You come accustomed to having all the power you need.
However 30 amp sites will still do the job if you practice some energy management.
However on a really hot day when you need both A/C's 30 amp sites will leave you a bit hotter than you want to be.
I have a 50 amp RV and try to use 50 amp sites as much as possible. In a pinch or if nothing else is available I will reluctantly stay at a 30 amp site.
Yes the convenience/power of the 50 amp pedestal has changed our destinations

[theoldwizard1]

CA Traveler wrote:
The rig is designed to use more power. Multiple A/Cs, ...

The thing that usually puts you in the 50A class is the second A/C.

[rwess]

A lot of parks that have only 30 amp service have 2 30 amp outlets in the box. There are pigtails available that allow you to plug into both outlets and will give you 60 amps instead of 30. Still not as good as the 100 amps you get from a 50 amp plug, but a heck of a lot better than 30.

[Roger10378]

The biggest difference is that when you overload a 30 amp trailer you will usually trip the breaker in the trailer. When you overload a 50 amp trailer plugged into a 30 amp CG you will always blow the breaker out at the box.

[BB_TX]

time2roll wrote:

Cloughfam wrote:
....., or if we just need to treat it like we currently do and turn off the AC if we need to run the microwave.

Yes.

Although if you run the fridge and water on propane you can probably run the microwave at the same time the air is running.

X2. Careful planning and only running one A/C and you will have little problem. Worse case you trip the park 30 amp breaker, reset it, remember what you were doing that caused it, and don't do it again.
Been there with our 50 amp 5er.

[Me_Again]

CA Traveler wrote:
Give serious consideration to installing a EMS to protect against low voltage with is rather common in 30A CGs. I recommend the PI HW50C which also protects against other faults. Don't leave home without it.

That is the one that I linked in the post I made. Chris

[time2roll]

Cloughfam wrote:
....., or if we just need to treat it like we currently do and turn off the AC if we need to run the microwave.

Yes.

Although if you run the fridge and water on propane you can probably run the microwave at the same time the air is running.

[CA_Traveler]

Plus per Me Again link I have the remote located inside where it's easy to check when needed. Another neutral problem is the power cord neutral or the CG pedestal neutral as the plugs get worn out.

Be aware that a open neutral on 50A is significantly "worst" than on 30A.

[CA_Traveler]

Give serious consideration to installing a EMS to protect against low voltage with is rather common in 30A CGs. I recommend the PI HW50C which also protects against other faults. Don't leave home without it.

[Me_Again]

You still should install a 50 surge protector. I did the hardwired one in zoo/dungeon.

This is the one I installed.

https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Industries-Hardwired-Electrical-Protection/dp/B003AN1UA8/ref=pd_c...

While on a 50 amp outlet, if you loose neutral you burn up all your AC items with 240V across them. I did the hardwired one because it protects me from a problem with the powered cord reel for the shore power cable. And it is not going to grow legs.

I would also note that while powering the trailer for dry camping with our Honda eu2000i generator, I have to put a male cord cap with neutral and ground bused together in the generator second outlet for the surge protector switch the power on.

[CA_Traveler]

The rig is designed to use more power. Multiple A/Cs, HW, MW, etc and you may want to push that additional button but can't - The 30A pedestal CB will trip.

I added an additional circuit with 2 plugs mostly for ceramic heaters. For 50A pedestal it plugs into an existing basement outlet. For 30A I run an extension cord to the pedestal (most have 30A and 20A outlets). Others have modified a AC power wires so it can be run off of the extension cord. By all means use a heavy extension cord and not the typical home cord.

If you are not aware 50A is 240/120V 4 wire. In RV speak this simply means you have two 50A 120V circuits for the rig or as some like to say 100A available vs the 30A pedestal.

[Mandalay_Parr]

BarneyS wrote:
Use the adapter and treat it just as you would a 30amp unit. Won't hurt a thing in the RV. If you try to run too much you will just blow a breaker just like your existing unit.
Barney

X2

[BarneyS]

Use the adapter and treat it just as you would a 30amp unit. Won't hurt a thing in the RV. If you try to run too much you will just blow a breaker just like your existing unit.
Barney