5th wheel adapter for goose neck

Most likely ...multiuse

But there are some that think it is better

Biggest issue is 5th wheel pin box frame/structure are NOT designed for that type of strain/pressure
Just look at how a gooseneck trailer is built vs a 5th wheel overhang frame

And then their are those that think a goose-neck is "all that".

He may be referring to a "goosebox" which does not cause issues with your chassis warranty. The one I am thinking of is made by Reese, however there is another out there that I have seen but do not remember the manufacturer.

Oh, and I would use it (if I could) so I do not have to remove a 250lb fifth wheel hitch in/out of my truck bed if I wanted to use my pickup as a... well... pickup.

//KMac

Probably people who have other gooseneck trailers. And/or those who grew up with or worked with farm, stock, and implement gooseneck trailers. But those are designed specifically for the gooseneck hitch.

The rigid gooseneck adapters for 5ers put stresses on a trailer frame that a standard 5th wheel hitch does not. And some manufacturers will void the warranty on a new 5th if you use one. But, having said that, many do it any way and seem to have no problem with them. The Goosebox (with air ride and shock absorber) is the only one I have heard of that is actually acceptable to some manufacturers.

A goosneck where the ball is at the floor of the pickup bed, creates a longer leaver arm on the trailer frame. If it's a light weight trailer with an overbuilt frame, that may be OK. If it's heavier and not built so well, it can be a problem...particularly if you are on rough roads. These variations in weight and driving conditions explain why some people go years with no issues and others quickly break something in the frame.

You may occasionally see a mount where it's a gooseneck ball but on a raised frame, pretty much the same height as a regular 5th wheel hitch. That shouldn't have any impact on the stress the trailer frame sees as the lever arm is roughly the same.

As to why? Most already have a gooseneck ball in the truck and it takes up very little space when not towing...vs a big heavy hitch that eats up a 1/3 of the truck bed when not towing.

Also you are supposed to use safety chains with a gooseneck hitch. Although it is questionable how many “forget” or never know that.

The Reese Goosebox, and Gen-Y are the new kids on the block, and are said not to damage the FW frame.

garyp4951 wrote:
The Reese Goosebox, and Gen-Y are the new kids on the block, and are said not to damage the FW frame.

But do manufacturers recognize them or still say no to a gooseneck?

Reese and Gen-Y may say they are good, but if something happens will your trailer company tell you tough luck?

Lippert has approved the Reese Goose Box for use with their Frames.

We use a Goosebox. Main reason, is we use the bed to haul water around in bladders when disconnected and need as much space as possible.

We do use safety chains, and they marginally increase hookup time.

There is a small learning curve to getting the ball right under the connection point - most of the time now, I can get it on the first try. Wasn't always so quick and easy. If my toolbox didn't block the view from the backup camera, it probably wouldn't have ever been an issue.

They allow more articulation than a fifth wheel hitch - which is both good and bad. You can easily make contact between the overhang and the bed rails if you aren't careful off-road, but can also use the increased articulation to get further out there. Just something to consider. Not likely to make much difference if you primarily go park to park or stay on pavement. I think that because they allow for more articulation, you are less likely to torque your frame, but as a final note on this, I'm not exactly comfortable with getting the trailer so off camber that this becomes important.

Fort Knox Locks makes a great lock that fits over the coupler. I'm not aware of any comparably secure pin locks, but I haven't looked in a while and they may be out there.

Another thing to note is that it's a bit more difficult to screw up the hitching process. If it's on the ball, it's on. No improperly closed jaws or high hitching. If you're careful and double check everything, probably not an issue one way or the other. I dropped a trailer once because someone started talking to me during the hitching process and I forgot to check that the jaws were actually locked. A little more difficult to have that happen on a ball - but I wouldn't use this alone as a reason to go this route.

I've had probably half a dozen fifth wheel hitches. They all tow a little differently. The difference between a cheap Curt and a TS BD3 is far bigger than the difference between a TS BD3 and a Goosebox - so to answer your towing different question, not really any more significant than the differences between other fifth wheel hitches and pinboxes.