... when it is large enough to require 50 amp service, but is only 30 amp with a single AC unit. It is really difficult to keep the inside of the rig comfortable.We purchased a 2011 Rockwood 32-foot fiver (30 amp) that really needs a second A/C unit (however it is not wired for such). I should have become suspicious when I discovered that you needed to flip a switch between using the microwave or the electric fireplace (can't use both at the same time). Evidently, the rig is (in my opinion) over that should be sufficient for 30 amp service.Our rig has a 12-foot super slide and we were thinking of adding mounts for an external shade to cover the broad side of the slide - when the sun hits it, the black metal frame heats so much that you can go inside and it is hot to the touch, acting like a heater. We would mount the roll-up shade when needed, and store it when not.Bad idea?Another thought - the A/C ducting is in the ceiling, and we notice that on a hot day, the air coming out of the registers is lukewarm. Evidently the A/C is doing nothing more than cooling the ceiling (or heating the air). Our thought is to close all the ceiling registers so all the cold air exits the ceiling unit directly into the rig. We tried it at home and it seemed to help.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

przao wrote:... when it is large enough to require 50 amp service, but is only 30 amp with a single AC unit. It is really difficult to keep the inside of the rig comfortable.We purchased a 2011 Rockwood 32-foot fiver (30 amp) that really needs a second A/C unit (however it is not wired for such). I should have become suspicious when I discovered that you needed to flip a switch between using the microwave or the electric fireplace (can't use both at the same time). Evidently, the rig is (in my opinion) over that should be sufficient for 30 amp service.Our rig has a 12-foot super slide and we were thinking of adding mounts for an external shade to cover the broad side of the slide - when the sun hits it, the black metal frame heats so much that you can go inside and it is hot to the touch, acting like a heater. We would mount the roll-up shade when needed, and store it when not.Bad idea?Another thought - the A/C ducting is in the ceiling, and we notice that on a hot day, the air coming out of the registers is lukewarm. Evidently the A/C is doing nothing more than cooling the ceiling (or heating the air). Our thought is to close all the ceiling registers so all the cold air exits the ceiling unit directly into the rig. We tried it at home and it seemed to help.Any ideas would be greatly appreciated+ Make sure all the ducts are properly sealed. Many people report poor seals from the factory.+ Fans help to circulate the air; don't be afraid to get a couple.+ Shade is your friend. Do what you can to maximize it.+ You can get thermal films for the windows that will significantly help.+ Many people do add a 2nd rooftop A/C, even though their FW isn't wired for it. They simply add a separate circuit solely for it and plug it into the CG pedestal. Alternatively, some have added a window unit or a portable A/C, especially if you're in a spot long-term.Lyle

Upgrade to 50 amp. Get a cord and an electrical box that supports 240 VAC and up to 6 relays plus a master on/off relay, wire the new cord to it so that you have two 120 vac bus bars working, put a 30 amp breaker on one side and wire that to your existing AC power distribution panel. That gives you your existing AC power setup with no changes. Put a 20 amp breaker on the other bus and wire that to your new AC unit. If you want to add more things or split off some outlets (like the microwave or the furnace) you can do that too, add them to the same bus as the new AC is on. Make sure the new electrical box does not bond neutral to ground.Alternatively install the new AC unit with a separate cord and plug it into the 20 amp outlet that is usually available on the power post in the campground.Brian

We sometimes bring along a second window unit when our POPUP camping at an electric site is going to be extended length.There is only the two of us so the one tent bed area is free to use for other purposes and becomes our day time catch all area... We can setup the window unit and wrap the window flap material around the back part of the air conditioner unit and tape up with duct tape. This unit will plug into the 20AMP Service on the pedestal.The roofs of the RV TRAILERS are not very thick and parking under a shade is must for us. This sometimes hampers our HDTV reception when camping off the power grid...Surprising how another source of cool helps out. We too circulate the air inside the trailer with fans. You might want to do something similar but in your case pick up one of those PORTABLE AIR CONDITIONERS... They are pretty neat items. I have seen one in use in a TT trailer. All you need is a 20AMp service extension cord and an available window area to setup the exhaust panel.Roy Ken

Some more ideas: - if you know it will be a hot day, get her real cold first thing in the morning. It often will hold a temperature once there but have a hard time dropping the temp. - If you won't be using the front sleeping area, close the door and the vent so it's cooling the critical living space but in the evening when the sun goes down, open it back up so it will cool the sleeping space.

VintageRacer wrote:Upgrade to 50 amp. Get a cord and an electrical box that supports 240 VAC and up to 6 relays plus a master on/off relay, wire the new cord to it so that you have two 120 vac bus bars working, put a 30 amp breaker on one side and wire that to your existing AC power distribution panel. That gives you your existing AC power setup with no changes. Put a 20 amp breaker on the other bus and wire that to your new AC unit. BrianBrian - A 50A service gives you 50A's on each line NOT 50A's total but 100A total. That's the reason for using 50A. Both sides of the 120 can use a 50A breaker and he doesn't have to worry about using the heater or microwave. So if he did go to the trouble of putting in 50A service he could balance his load better by rewiring the breaker panel - just a very little more work than changing to 50A service.

Advice needed: how to keep a rig cooler... | Good Sam Community

shadows4
Explorer III
Jul 24, 2014
This spring I installed a separate 20 amp circuit in our 5er. I just plug a heavy duty extension cord in the separate 20 recepticle on the campground electrical post. I did this because my wife would blow a breaker every time she would use her blow drier. You could do the same and use it for a 2nd AC or maybe even wire in the fireplace too. Just wouldn't be able to use them both at the same time of course. Good luck, John
camperkilgore
Explorer
Jul 23, 2014
fpresto wrote:
B.O. Plenty wrote:
This is not necessarily true, Locally there is an HVAC guy that for $75 will cut the crimped ends off of the Freon lines, sweat new service connections on and re-charge the system all without removing the unit from the camper.

To what point? If you can find a person who will do it, which is very difficult to do, it is a sealed system and must have a leak to be low on Freon. You will have spent the money and still have a leak.

I think the general idea was to service the unit by the usual methods of injecting dye to find the leak, fix the leak and then vacuum and recharge the system. It's all part of A/C repair/service. It still might be cheaper than a 700 or 800$ replacement A/C unit. If you can find a repair person to do it.
fpresto
Explorer
Jul 23, 2014
B.O. Plenty wrote:
This is not necessarily true, Locally there is an HVAC guy that for $75 will cut the crimped ends off of the Freon lines, sweat new service connections on and re-charge the system all without removing the unit from the camper.

To what point? If you can find a person who will do it, which is very difficult to do, it is a sealed system and must have a leak to be low on Freon. You will have spent the money and still have a leak.
Woody69
Explorer
Jul 23, 2014
2-MTnesters wrote:

This is not necessarily true, Locally there is an HVAC guy that for $75 will cut the crimped ends off of the Freon lines, sweat new service connections on and re-charge the system all without removing the unit from the camper. I'm sure if you call an heating/air place local to you they may do the same service. Tim

Yep. Any competent HVAC tech can do this. Finding one that WILL may take a few try's.
2-MTnesters
Explorer
Jul 23, 2014
B.O. Plenty wrote:
chiefward wrote:
Get your ac unit serviced. May be low on coolant.
It's refrigerant not coolant. They are sealed units, no charging port. All you can do is replace them.

B.O.

This is not necessarily true, Locally there is an HVAC guy that for $75 will cut the crimped ends off of the Freon lines, sweat new service connections on and re-charge the system all without removing the unit from the camper. I'm sure if you call an heating/air place local to you they may do the same service. Tim
ventrman
Explorer
Jul 23, 2014
Here is some more Information about Radient Shield. It is also called Radient Barrier Insulation.
A Friend of mine was in The Civil Air Patrol. They had an Exercise at the Gallatin, TN Airport. It was so hot that the Heat was melting the Soles on their Boots. The Temperature on the Tarmac was 135 Degrees Fahrenheit. He laid a 6 Pack of Cokes wrapped in Radient Shield on the Tarmac. Several Hours later the Coke was still cold.
93Cobra2771
Explorer
Jul 22, 2014
Do the free/easy stuff mentioned above, and see if that helps. If not, then the 50a conversion, or at the very least an additional 20a circuit with a small a/c running on it will be the way to go.
przao
Explorer
Jul 22, 2014
Many thanks everyone, for the helpful advice. Going with a second A/C with a separate line might be the easiest for me. Ideally however, I'd like to find an electrician that could do a 50 amp conversion because that is way beyond my skill level.
93Cobra2771
Explorer
Jul 22, 2014
You will be shocked when you see how poorly the ducts are sealed on the ducted a/c units.

Not just the ducts, but the inlet and return air ducts. I found mine to be improperly sealed between the return and cool side. Fixed that issue with some foam and duct tape. Also sealed the ducts to the wood, since all they had done was cut some holes and stick the ducts in.

I definitely picked up some cfm coming out of the ducts.
the_bear_II
Explorer
Jul 22, 2014
We have a 38ft 5th wheel. All windows have awnings, plus patio awning. Inside all windows have mini-blinds.

We have a ducted Duo Therm 15K BTU A/C.

To keep the inside cool we:
Deploy all Awnings
Turn the mini-blinds so the sun doesn't come in
Set the A/C at 56 degrees with fan on low
Turn on the ceiling fan
Tell our guests/kids they either stay in or out to limit the door openings
A/C stays on and we put on coats if we get chilled
Use protable fans to direct cool air into warm areas
If outside temp is above 80 degrees the A/C stays on 24/7

Our inside stays very comfortable into 100 plus outside temps.

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