The wife and I are planning on buying a fifth wheel this spring.And I know absolutely nothing about fifth wheel hitches. Before we go to the dealer and they try and sell us a hitch that they have I figured I would get some advice from you guys.. My truck is a 2001 F350 crewcab shortbed. The trailer we are interested in is a Keystone Cougar 29RBS.Specs for 29RBSShipping Weight 7690Carrying Capacity 2310Hitch 1405Length 32' 11"Height 11' 11"Fresh Water 43Waste Water 28Gray Water 56LPG 60Tire Size ST225/75R15DAny help will be very much appreciated. Thanks guys!

There are a lot of good hitches out there, Reese, B&W, Pullrite to name a few.I think the most important consideration with your shortbed truck is whether you need a sliding hitch or not.Without a slider, there is an angle at which the corner of the fiver WILL go through the back window of the cab (or worse, the sheet metal).This angle depends on a number of things, such as - the pin distance from the cab, - the contours of the trailer corners - and the length of the pin box.A sliding hitch will ensure no contact in extreme manoeuvres.Now you have to decide if you will get a manual slider, an auto slider or a pivoting extended pin box (such as a Sidewinder) that moves the pivot point of the trailer pin to the rear.Manual sliders are least cost, but you have to remember to use them (and be able to get out of the truck to do that).I'm a big fan of the Pullrite Superglide, which is fully automatic and provides total peace of mind. But it is heavy and quite expensive.The Sidewinder pin box performs a similar function.Sorry to throw all this at you, but it is an important consideration.Many on here will say they have never used their slider, but there are plenty who HAVE taken out the back window of their truck.Your call!

For a 10k GVWR trailer I would look at the 15k-16k sliding hitch for your short bed truck. You have choices of manual or auto sliding hitches and if you don't want a sliding hitch look into the Sidewinder hitch by Reese. Also some of the new trailers have a notched rounded front corner profile that doesn't need a sliding hitch. Many GM truck owners report they don't need a sliding hitch as GM have a longer dimension from the back of the cab to the trucks rear axle. Simply no need for spending big bucks on a auto sliding hitch if its not needed. Make sure the hitch has the four way pivot (side to side). Makes hooking up and unhooking easier when your camping on a out of level campsite or a primitive area. I use a 16k Reese manual slider for my 11200 lb 5er. No problems in 19 years of service. Slides like a hot knife through butter in any position on any grade. I've used a Hijacker and a Atwood and a Curt over the years so I'm not loyal to any brand Others have their favorite hitch brands which is usually the one they have.

Buy the hitch that most closely meets the capabilities of your TV, not your intended trailer. That way you can upgrade trailers without buying a new hitch or tow any other trailer that your TV can handle. With an F350, I'd probably look at 20k hitches.EDIT. Owning a TV with an under rated hitch is like owning a Corvette with tires speed rated at 65 mph. You own a vehicle with limited capabilities because of a relatively inexpensive aftermarket component. If you never intend to drive the Vette over 65 mph, the tires will work just fine, but why buy a Vette. Why own a TV that has a hitch with less capability than the TV.

With the short bed I would also recommend a slider, preferably an auto slider. Yeah, it is a little pricey. But compared to the cost of the truck and 5er, not so much so. And the slider will still be in the truck if you trade for a new 5er. And can be moved if you trade for a new truck.As the old saying goes, it is better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. A good friend knocked out his back window on his short bed with no slider on a tight back in turn into his RV site.

Since it appears you are new at this fifth wheel towing lifestyle, might I suggest getting a simple hitch, that does not require a long time to learn how to hitch and use it properly.That said, the Demco Hijacker sliding hitch for short box pickups may be the one for you.A slider to avoid taking out the rear window of your truck.A Sliding bar style hitch which is about the simplest style fifth wheel hitch to learn to use properly.PS: I don't own nor have I ever used this hitch. However, I have used two different types of sliding bar hitches over the years. Very simple to learn correct operation, and visually, gives one a clear picture that yes, my fifth wheel is hooked up correctly.

Advice on a good quality hitch that will work with my setup.

jerem0621
Explorer II
Jan 11, 2015
My Dad has a Curt 20k Slider hitch and he love it. Easy to use, easy to see if hitched properly. He has never had a single problem with it...except it's a heavy beast.

Thanks!

Jeremiah
laknox
Nomad
Jan 10, 2015
I love my B&W Turnover Ball gooseneck and Companion FW hitch. In fact, I used the TO Ball yesterday. Only hitch I'll have unless I outgrow it.

Lyle
jus2shy
Explorer
Jan 10, 2015
OP, There are many things to consider. The fancier hitches tend to have tilt in 2 axis and have lots of adjustability to raise or lower the hitch head and move it back and forth within the bed of your truck. Have a head piece that articulates will help prevent binding and smooth out the ride down the road. Then you have the actual mechanism for latching onto the kingpin itself. The fancier hitch tend to have 2 jaws that wrap around the kingpin and take up all the slack as it engages. The cheaper units tend to have a sliding bar that has a bit of slack and makes for jerky rides. Then you have the in-between hitches, such as those with a J-hook or other latching mechanisms.

As others have said, you have to look into your own circumstances. A slider hitch will buy you more maneuverability in the extremes, but with a front cap that is scalloped for a short bed, there are few circumstances in which you will need it. Another, equally pricey solution, is the sidewinder product from Reese. This moves the articulation point to the pinbox under the 5'ver and you get full articulation like the 8' bed guys as well. I think the keystone scalloped heads are advertised to provide 85 or 88 degrees of turn, while the sidewinder or a slider can buy you a little over 90 degrees of turning radius (like 95 or maybe even 100 degrees). Again, you would only need that in some very extreme cases, and the gain is small with the modern scalloped front ends.
Bamaman11
Explorer
Jan 10, 2015
I've got the B&W Patriot 16K hitch that'd do you a great job. I like the high quality workmanship plus the hitch is adjustable front and back, up and down. And the price online was really right.

I ordered Curt under bed custom frame brackets to mount the in bed rails on. Some holes lined up, but I had to manually drill a number of holes. But the rails are really installed properly. The hassle was installing AirRide airbags at the same time, as some of the Curt frame bracket bolts are used on the AirRide airbag top brackets.

It all came together well.
kennethwooster
Explorer
Jan 10, 2015
After about 5 hitches I've determined the hitches I like the best. I've used Husky, Reese (which I won't use again) and I've had a Pullright SG. Great hitch if you have to have a slider. Finally I ended up with the B&W. Definitely the best and simplest hitch out of the bunch. Very easy to hook to and unhook from. Cannot say that about the Reese. B&W is also the simplest. Good luck.
drfife
Explorer
Jan 10, 2015
The front cap on that trailer is designed for use with a standard 6' bed truck.

You don't need a sliding hitch. If it makes you feel better, get one. But it's a waste of money for that trailer with your truck.
phillyg
Explorer II
Jan 10, 2015
Used to have the Pullrite Superglide 12k hitch on my F150; it's a great hitch although expensive and very heavy but you don't have to remember to get out and manually slide. I bought a used Reese 16k manual slider for $250 for my '05 F350 shortbed. I was hopeful that the corner cutouts on my new FW would allow me to get to 90 degrees without sliding; wrong! There will still be occasions where I might have to slide and hope I remember to do so. You can spend a little or spend a lot.
57_Panhead
Explorer
Jan 10, 2015
I have only had experience with the B&W Companion and am completely satisfied with the performance and reliability of this hitch.

One comment I have read often about some of the other hitches out there is that if you are not fairly level with the trailer when unhitching it can be difficult to pull the release and unhook the trailer. This is never a problem with the B&W due to the design of the jaws.

Steve
ricatic
Explorer
Jan 10, 2015
I suggest the OP read the currently running thread on B&W Companion hitches. They make both a fixed and sliding model.

B&W Hitch Thread

Unless the OP's trailer is an older Keystone Cougar, it will have the radius-ed front cap designed to allow towing with a SB truck and a non-sliding hitch. I towed our Big Horn for 15,000 miles with a SB Ford truck and a non-sliding Companion hitch with no problems getting into any campsites...

I understand the mantra about "better to have..." but an large number of slider owners that post here admit to never using the capability...

You pays your money and you take your chances...Good Luck with whatever you choose...

Regards
shadows4
Explorer III
Jan 10, 2015
Hi Kevin,
At the least I would recommend a manual slider. I bought mine used off of CL for $150 bucks. It's a Reese 14K. It works great as long as you use it! I have a couple of small dents in the corners of the cab on my truck to show I didn't use it.
As far as the 5er you mentioned. I looked it up and see it has the corners of the trailer trimmed. That is a good thing for a short bed truck user. If I had to do over I probably would have bought an automatic slider. Yes they are heavy but they work as advertised.
Good luck, do your research well and let us know what you decide on.
John