Are the six point level systems worth it?

Our last toyhauler (KZ Inferno) did not have the auto level. Our current toyhauler (Voltage EPIC) has it = would never buy a unit without it again! Very easy to setup - my hubby is anal about the unit being completely level and used to run around with a manual level - which took way too much time!

71stang99 wrote:

RickSo wrote:
Found this in a Lippert manual:

----------------------------------------------------------------------
MANUAL OVERRIDE - POWER SYSTEM
The Lippert Hydraulic Landing Gear can be run with auxiliary power devices like electric drills,
ratchet wrenches or cordless screwdrivers. In the event of electrical or system failure, this
manual method of extending and retracting the jacks can be used. A standard handheld drill is all
that is required. See the instructions below.
1. Remove protective label.
2. Using a standard hex bit, insert into auxiliary drive device, i.e. cordless drill or screwdriver or
ratchet wrench.
3. Insert hex bit into coupler found under protective label.
4. Run drill forward or clockwise to extend jacks and in reverse or counterclockwise to retract
jacks.
FILLING DIRECTIONS
The Lippert Hydraulic Landing Gear uses automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Any ATF can be
used. A full synthetic or synthetic blend works best such as Dexron II, Dexron III or Mercon 5.
For best operation, fill system within 1/4” of the top when all slideouts and landing gear are
completely retracted. The see through reservoir makes it easy to check oil level. It is
recommended that the oil level be checked prior to operating the system. Make sure the breather
cap is free of contamination before removing, replacing or installing. In colder temperatures (less
than 10° F) the cylinders and jacks may extend and retract slowly due to the fluid’s molecular
nature. For cold weather operation, fluid specially formulated for low temperatures may be
desirable.
Please consult factory before using any other fluids.
1. Remove Breather/Fill Cap
2. Pour ATF into Breather/Fill opening.
NOTE: Do not allow any contamination into reservoir during fill process.
NOTE: Standard reservoir holds approximately 2 quarts (1.89 liters) of ATF.
3. Fill to within 1/4” of top.
4. Replace Breather/Fill cap when finished.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Sure, yes it says that but what about opening or closing the valves on the manifold body? If that does not happen nothing will happen. The only way I found that out was after the fact on YouTube. BS.

I agree. After posting my question I did a search and found the youtube videos. It appears to be a quite easy process that should not take much more then 5 minutes but if you had never seen those videos and only had the manual as listed above I can see it being a nightmare. I can see myself trying and trying with the drill and as it says on the videos. it will not work without opening the valves. Well, hopefully this thread will save anyone else with issues from going through the same problem

RickSo wrote:
Found this in a Lippert manual:

----------------------------------------------------------------------
MANUAL OVERRIDE - POWER SYSTEM
The Lippert Hydraulic Landing Gear can be run with auxiliary power devices like electric drills,
ratchet wrenches or cordless screwdrivers. In the event of electrical or system failure, this
manual method of extending and retracting the jacks can be used. A standard handheld drill is all
that is required. See the instructions below.
1. Remove protective label.
2. Using a standard hex bit, insert into auxiliary drive device, i.e. cordless drill or screwdriver or
ratchet wrench.
3. Insert hex bit into coupler found under protective label.
4. Run drill forward or clockwise to extend jacks and in reverse or counterclockwise to retract
jacks.
FILLING DIRECTIONS
The Lippert Hydraulic Landing Gear uses automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Any ATF can be
used. A full synthetic or synthetic blend works best such as Dexron II, Dexron III or Mercon 5.
For best operation, fill system within 1/4” of the top when all slideouts and landing gear are
completely retracted. The see through reservoir makes it easy to check oil level. It is
recommended that the oil level be checked prior to operating the system. Make sure the breather
cap is free of contamination before removing, replacing or installing. In colder temperatures (less
than 10° F) the cylinders and jacks may extend and retract slowly due to the fluid’s molecular
nature. For cold weather operation, fluid specially formulated for low temperatures may be
desirable.
Please consult factory before using any other fluids.
1. Remove Breather/Fill Cap
2. Pour ATF into Breather/Fill opening.
NOTE: Do not allow any contamination into reservoir during fill process.
NOTE: Standard reservoir holds approximately 2 quarts (1.89 liters) of ATF.
3. Fill to within 1/4” of top.
4. Replace Breather/Fill cap when finished.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Sure, yes it says that but what about opening or closing the valves on the manifold body? If that does not happen nothing will happen. The only way I found that out was after the fact on YouTube. BS.

Found this in a Lippert manual:

----------------------------------------------------------------------
MANUAL OVERRIDE - POWER SYSTEM
The Lippert Hydraulic Landing Gear can be run with auxiliary power devices like electric drills,
ratchet wrenches or cordless screwdrivers. In the event of electrical or system failure, this
manual method of extending and retracting the jacks can be used. A standard handheld drill is all
that is required. See the instructions below.
1. Remove protective label.
2. Using a standard hex bit, insert into auxiliary drive device, i.e. cordless drill or screwdriver or
ratchet wrench.
3. Insert hex bit into coupler found under protective label.
4. Run drill forward or clockwise to extend jacks and in reverse or counterclockwise to retract
jacks.
FILLING DIRECTIONS
The Lippert Hydraulic Landing Gear uses automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Any ATF can be
used. A full synthetic or synthetic blend works best such as Dexron II, Dexron III or Mercon 5.
For best operation, fill system within 1/4” of the top when all slideouts and landing gear are
completely retracted. The see through reservoir makes it easy to check oil level. It is
recommended that the oil level be checked prior to operating the system. Make sure the breather
cap is free of contamination before removing, replacing or installing. In colder temperatures (less
than 10° F) the cylinders and jacks may extend and retract slowly due to the fluid’s molecular
nature. For cold weather operation, fluid specially formulated for low temperatures may be
desirable.
Please consult factory before using any other fluids.
1. Remove Breather/Fill Cap
2. Pour ATF into Breather/Fill opening.
NOTE: Do not allow any contamination into reservoir during fill process.
NOTE: Standard reservoir holds approximately 2 quarts (1.89 liters) of ATF.
3. Fill to within 1/4” of top.
4. Replace Breather/Fill cap when finished.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

720Deere wrote:
The system comes (or should) with a flexible shaft to run the pump with a drill if the electric motor fails. You then activate the valves manually as previously referenced. The problem is, there really is nothing in the literature that they provide describing the procedure and 99% of the people doing the PDI don't have a clue how it works. The only information I was able to find was a Lippert service manual that I found online.

EXACTLY hence my complaint to the piss poor documentation. There is some information about using the drill on the motor however nothing about the valves (lack of a better word) on the manifold as they have to be adjusted for opening or closing was in the documentation from Dutchmen which was Lippert paperwork. I have no idea who runs the technical writing department but they should be fired so as to actually produce viable documents to help the buyers. Again, there was more information on Lippert University YouTube videos that provided more information than anything that came from Dutchmen.

The oafs from CW didn't address that (opening valve) prior to trying the drill on the motor. They suggested cracking the lines to relieve the line pressure and using a hydraulic jack to raise the legs. Wow, that's a great idea! however the mobile tech was smarter than that and trouble shot the faulty electrical solenoid. I asked them about it as I have mechanical/electrical background but did not want to deal with any voiding of the warranty which really is nothing more than a joke considering they will not do mobile repair nor answer any of my questions for support. Dutchmen is going down as fast as the craptastic Cyclone product I've had before and this time if need be I will retain an attorney to force these clods to get with the program , meaning back what you build and don't ignore the buyer. If the RV industry had the same regulation as the auto industry we might be able to buy a quality product.

The system comes (or should) with a flexible shaft to run the pump with a drill if the electric motor fails. You then activate the valves manually as previously referenced. The problem is, there really is nothing in the literature that they provide describing the procedure and 99% of the people doing the PDI don't have a clue how it works. The only information I was able to find was a Lippert service manual that I found online.

71stang99 wrote:

Treadwheeler wrote:
Most systems will pick up the entire unit off the ground to change one or all tires..... Can you say pit stop!
You must un-hook before leveling - you use the front two jacks to unhitch just like traditional front jacks, then use the auto level system or do manual if your prefer.
On our system. The front and rear jacks do the primary leveling and the side middle jacks are stabilizers - I believe the same for all systems - though not 100% sure about that.
Down side is if they fail 100% you are stuck if none of the trouble shooting helps, other than manually opening hydraulic system to release pressure (fluid) to get jacks up. There are electric systems, although much much slower, you can put them up manually if needed.
If ground is more un-level than the travel of jacks can compensate fir you can block for additional reach as needed.

I was stranded on Memorial Day weekend. Not cool. No mobile tech service from the craptastic Dutchmen company. The person the I HIRED to come and get us on the road (again due to poor documentation) came out and figured out a fix for the moment. The gear will not retract and he was able to jumper the solenoid for the motor to retract as it appears to be fried on 1/2 of the circuit. The carbon blobs at Dutchmen still have not replied as I told them that the gear does not retract and what the fix was, all they have to do is send me the part as its easy enough to replace. Oh, and the wonderful Lippert documentation is garbage as well as the competency of the CW techs who tried to help out over the phone since they were the closest warranty (no mobile dispatch). They tried and I give them credit for that but the mobile tech was much more knowledgeable. The only Lippert fix that MAY have worked was found online (youtube) but that was after the fact and not within the documentation or the INFOMERCIAL CD that came with the unit promoting the leveling system. It worked awesome but yet again in all reality the RV industry failed yet again with Lippert and Dutchmen both dropping the ball. The true Lippert fix was to turn the screw on the valves and to run the motor with a drill.

So are you saying these can be retracted by turning a screw on the motor? Can you possible post some pics of what you are talking about? Also, do you have a hydraulic or electric leveling system? Thanks for the info.

Treadwheeler wrote:
Most systems will pick up the entire unit off the ground to change one or all tires..... Can you say pit stop!
You must un-hook before leveling - you use the front two jacks to unhitch just like traditional front jacks, then use the auto level system or do manual if your prefer.
On our system. The front and rear jacks do the primary leveling and the side middle jacks are stabilizers - I believe the same for all systems - though not 100% sure about that.
Down side is if they fail 100% you are stuck if none of the trouble shooting helps, other than manually opening hydraulic system to release pressure (fluid) to get jacks up. There are electric systems, although much much slower, you can put them up manually if needed.
If ground is more un-level than the travel of jacks can compensate fir you can block for additional reach as needed.

I was stranded on Memorial Day weekend. Not cool. No mobile tech service from the craptastic Dutchmen company. The person the I HIRED to come and get us on the road (again due to poor documentation) came out and figured out a fix for the moment. The gear will not retract and he was able to jumper the solenoid for the motor to retract as it appears to be fried on 1/2 of the circuit. The carbon blobs at Dutchmen still have not replied as I told them that the gear does not retract and what the fix was, all they have to do is send me the part as its easy enough to replace. Oh, and the wonderful Lippert documentation is garbage as well as the competency of the CW techs who tried to help out over the phone since they were the closest warranty (no mobile dispatch). They tried and I give them credit for that but the mobile tech was much more knowledgeable. The only Lippert fix that MAY have worked was found online (youtube) but that was after the fact and not within the documentation or the INFOMERCIAL CD that came with the unit promoting the leveling system. It worked awesome but yet again in all reality the RV industry failed yet again with Lippert and Dutchmen both dropping the ball. The true Lippert fix was to turn the screw on the valves and to run the motor with a drill.

Most systems will pick up the entire unit off the ground to change one or all tires..... Can you say pit stop!
You must un-hook before leveling - you use the front two jacks to unhitch just like traditional front jacks, then use the auto level system or do manual if your prefer.
On our system. The front and rear jacks do the primary leveling and the side middle jacks are stabilizers - I believe the same for all systems - though not 100% sure about that.
Down side is if they fail 100% you are stuck if none of the trouble shooting helps, other than manually opening hydraulic system to release pressure (fluid) to get jacks up. There are electric systems, although much much slower, you can put them up manually if needed.
If ground is more un-level than the travel of jacks can compensate fir you can block for additional reach as needed.

Great feedback everyone, thanks! A few more questions. Do you still use the 5er's built in front jacks to unhitch or do you simply start the process and then unhitch? Do you use the leveling jacks at all or just the 6 point system? Also, anyone ever use this boondocking or at a truly wooded site with uneven ground, roots, etc? How does it work on those sites? Like mentioned earlier there are a few parks we camp that have drop offs where I currently have to build up some cinder blocks or wood blocks to put the levelers down. these sites will also have un even ground where the levelers go. Levelers have hinged feat however so it can adjust. Will this do OK if the rear is flat and the front is a totally different slope for example? Thanks again!