Auto level question

WeBeFulltimers wrote:
All these responses and I haven't seen where anyone asked the OP which Level-Up system he has...hydraulic or electric. Yes, they do operate a little differently.

Lippert ground control 3.0, electric jacks. 33’ trailer has the landing jacks and 1 behind the tires on each side. Total of 4 jacks.

Seems like the best option is to level side to side with blocks as close as possible then let the auto level run its course. This should keep all 4 wheels in contact with the ground or blocks.

All these responses and I haven't seen where anyone asked the OP which Level-Up system he has...hydraulic or electric. Yes, they do operate a little differently.

I sat for two snowbird winters of 6 months with the drivers side tires just off the ground(same site). Not a problem. As stated the 6 point jacks will handle lifting the whole trailer off the ground and still be well below their ratings.

Chris

I always put 6x6 blocks under my 6 LCI 3.0 auto leveler jacks....I don't want the dreaded "stroke error" message.

IMO, it makes sense that it is better to have all the wheels on the ground....I'll leave it at that.

ACZL wrote:
If the either the jacks or the frame cannot support either, then there is a BIG problem. Do believe the jacks are rated for several thousand pound capacity each.

MY 6 point level up jacks are rated for 14,000# EACH...

I am not getting into a discussion on whether the jacks will support properly or not. I have had fivers, a dp motor home and tag behinds. I will not let my wheels spin free. They have to be touching the ground. That is why I have leveling blocks.

BarneyS wrote:

djousma wrote:
Snip...
These units are *heavy* now days. I had some roto-chocks that clamp between the wheels left over my from my TT days. Thought I'd be able to use them on the new unit. What a joke. Had the wheels on some leveling blocks, and it rolled back a bit off the block, and promptly bent, and rendered useless the roto-chocks.

Snip...

You must have had some other type of between the wheel chocks and not Roto-chocks. I have a pair and can see no place where they could bend. You could tear the strap, or possibly chip or break the black plastic like material but I do not think they will bend.
Perhaps you used the term roto-chocks to mean another brand of metal between the wheel chocks.
Barney

Barney,

Yea, you are right. I was trying to recall by name, and was wrong. they were the BAL Deluxe Tire locking Chock like this:

BAL Deluxe Tire Chock

djousma wrote:
Snip...
These units are *heavy* now days. I had some roto-chocks that clamp between the wheels left over my from my TT days. Thought I'd be able to use them on the new unit. What a joke. Had the wheels on some leveling blocks, and it rolled back a bit off the block, and promptly bent, and rendered useless the roto-chocks.

Snip...

You must have had some other type of between the wheel chocks and not Roto-chocks. I have a pair and can see no place where they could bend. You could tear the strap, or possibly chip or break the black plastic like material but I do not think they will bend.
Perhaps you used the term roto-chocks to mean another brand of metal between the wheel chocks.
Barney

austinjenna wrote:
So as not to sound to silly because I dont have this type of system yet but I am sure the next one will. Before I unhook I use the rubber chocks on the wheels then unhook. If I had the leveler system do you do it the same way - even if it lifts those tires off the ground? I guess my question is I am wondering if the tires come off the ground and you bring it back down to hook back up I dont want it rolling away LOL.

How do you guys do it if the wheels are off the ground and are getting ready to hook back up?

I always chock ahead of and behind the tandem axles on both sides of the trailer. On an unlevel site, it will only be one side that *might* be off the ground, never both sides.

These units are *heavy* now days. I had some roto-chocks that clamp between the wheels left over my from my TT days. Thought I'd be able to use them on the new unit. What a joke. Had the wheels on some leveling blocks, and it rolled back a bit off the block, and promptly bent, and rendered useless the roto-chocks.

I bought some pretty beefy chocks from Tractor supply that are made of hard rubber that work really well.

Oh, and to answer your question, you dont level until after you have unhooked from the TV, so chocks are appropriate. Same thing in reverse, you retract all the leveling, except the front legs, then hook up the TV. Again, chocks are appropriate. If the wheels come off the ground a bit while stationary, leave the chocks in place, so that when you retract, they are still where you need them.

ACZL wrote:
If the either the jacks or the frame cannot support either, then there is a BIG problem. Do believe the jacks are rated for several thousand pound capacity each.

On the Lippert Levelup, the 4 rear jacks are rated at 8K each, and the two front ones are 14K each. Plenty of headroom there. There is no problem with having wheels off the ground, except for others have mentioned, causes the trailer to wiggle a bit more. for that reason, I too, will put a board or two under the wheels to keep them grounded.

I routinely use my levelup to jack one side of my 5th off the ground to do wheel work. Of course, take the necessary precautions to ensure the trailer doesnt move (i hitch up), and dont be climbing under the trailer either.