cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Auto level question

buck_n_duck
Explorer
Explorer
New 5th wheel has Lippert auto level. The manual says start on semi level ground. If the ground is not very level should I put blocks under it first? Does it matter if the auto level completely raises the tires off the ground?
Brian
19 REPLIES 19

buck_n_duck
Explorer
Explorer
WeBeFulltimers wrote:
All these responses and I haven't seen where anyone asked the OP which Level-Up system he has...hydraulic or electric. Yes, they do operate a little differently.


Lippert ground control 3.0, electric jacks. 33โ€™ trailer has the landing jacks and 1 behind the tires on each side. Total of 4 jacks.

Seems like the best option is to level side to side with blocks as close as possible then let the auto level run its course. This should keep all 4 wheels in contact with the ground or blocks.
Brian

WeBeFulltimers
Explorer
Explorer
All these responses and I haven't seen where anyone asked the OP which Level-Up system he has...hydraulic or electric. Yes, they do operate a little differently.
2012 Ford F-350 PSD SRW ** CURT Q24 ** 2018.5 MONTANA 3791RD

Me_Again
Explorer II
Explorer II
I sat for two snowbird winters of 6 months with the drivers side tires just off the ground(same site). Not a problem. As stated the 6 point jacks will handle lifting the whole trailer off the ground and still be well below their ratings.

Chris
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021

Splashers3
Explorer
Explorer
I always put 6x6 blocks under my 6 LCI 3.0 auto leveler jacks....I don't want the dreaded "stroke error" message.

IMO, it makes sense that it is better to have all the wheels on the ground....I'll leave it at that.
2017 GMC 3500 Sierra Denali, C/C, D/A, DRW, w/40gal Aux tank, 18K B&W Patriot.
2019 Cedar Creek Hathaway, 34RL2 - w/Bells & Whistles and disc brakes
Traded 2009 Cedar Creek Silverback, GII, 32 WRL

ACZL wrote:
If the either the jacks or the frame cannot support either, then there is a BIG problem. Do believe the jacks are rated for several thousand pound capacity each.


MY 6 point level up jacks are rated for 14,000# EACH...
Me-Her-the kids
2020 Ford F350 SD 6.7
2020 Redwood 3991RD Garnet

Campinghoss
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am not getting into a discussion on whether the jacks will support properly or not. I have had fivers, a dp motor home and tag behinds. I will not let my wheels spin free. They have to be touching the ground. That is why I have leveling blocks.
Camping Hoss
2017 Open Range 3X 388RKS
MorRyde IS with disc brakes
2017 F-350 6.7 with hips 8'bed
Lucie our fur baby
Lucky 9/15/2007 - 1/30/2023

djousma
Explorer
Explorer
BarneyS wrote:
djousma wrote:
Snip...
These units are *heavy* now days. I had some roto-chocks that clamp between the wheels left over my from my TT days. Thought I'd be able to use them on the new unit. What a joke. Had the wheels on some leveling blocks, and it rolled back a bit off the block, and promptly bent, and rendered useless the roto-chocks.

Snip...

You must have had some other type of between the wheel chocks and not Roto-chocks. I have a pair and can see no place where they could bend. You could tear the strap, or possibly chip or break the black plastic like material but I do not think they will bend.
Perhaps you used the term roto-chocks to mean another brand of metal between the wheel chocks.
Barney


Barney,

Yea, you are right. I was trying to recall by name, and was wrong. they were the BAL Deluxe Tire locking Chock like this:

BAL Deluxe Tire Chock
Dave
2016 F350 Lariat 4x4 FX4 SRW CC SB 6.7 Magnetic Metallic
2017 Forest River Cardinal 3850RL

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
djousma wrote:
Snip...
These units are *heavy* now days. I had some roto-chocks that clamp between the wheels left over my from my TT days. Thought I'd be able to use them on the new unit. What a joke. Had the wheels on some leveling blocks, and it rolled back a bit off the block, and promptly bent, and rendered useless the roto-chocks.

Snip...

You must have had some other type of between the wheel chocks and not Roto-chocks. I have a pair and can see no place where they could bend. You could tear the strap, or possibly chip or break the black plastic like material but I do not think they will bend.
Perhaps you used the term roto-chocks to mean another brand of metal between the wheel chocks.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

djousma
Explorer
Explorer
austinjenna wrote:
So as not to sound to silly because I dont have this type of system yet but I am sure the next one will. Before I unhook I use the rubber chocks on the wheels then unhook. If I had the leveler system do you do it the same way - even if it lifts those tires off the ground? I guess my question is I am wondering if the tires come off the ground and you bring it back down to hook back up I dont want it rolling away LOL.

How do you guys do it if the wheels are off the ground and are getting ready to hook back up?


I always chock ahead of and behind the tandem axles on both sides of the trailer. On an unlevel site, it will only be one side that *might* be off the ground, never both sides.

These units are *heavy* now days. I had some roto-chocks that clamp between the wheels left over my from my TT days. Thought I'd be able to use them on the new unit. What a joke. Had the wheels on some leveling blocks, and it rolled back a bit off the block, and promptly bent, and rendered useless the roto-chocks.

I bought some pretty beefy chocks from Tractor supply that are made of hard rubber that work really well.

Oh, and to answer your question, you dont level until after you have unhooked from the TV, so chocks are appropriate. Same thing in reverse, you retract all the leveling, except the front legs, then hook up the TV. Again, chocks are appropriate. If the wheels come off the ground a bit while stationary, leave the chocks in place, so that when you retract, they are still where you need them.
Dave
2016 F350 Lariat 4x4 FX4 SRW CC SB 6.7 Magnetic Metallic
2017 Forest River Cardinal 3850RL

djousma
Explorer
Explorer
ACZL wrote:
If the either the jacks or the frame cannot support either, then there is a BIG problem. Do believe the jacks are rated for several thousand pound capacity each.


On the Lippert Levelup, the 4 rear jacks are rated at 8K each, and the two front ones are 14K each. Plenty of headroom there. There is no problem with having wheels off the ground, except for others have mentioned, causes the trailer to wiggle a bit more. for that reason, I too, will put a board or two under the wheels to keep them grounded.

I routinely use my levelup to jack one side of my 5th off the ground to do wheel work. Of course, take the necessary precautions to ensure the trailer doesnt move (i hitch up), and dont be climbing under the trailer either.
Dave
2016 F350 Lariat 4x4 FX4 SRW CC SB 6.7 Magnetic Metallic
2017 Forest River Cardinal 3850RL

austinjenna
Explorer
Explorer
So as not to sound to silly because I dont have this type of system yet but I am sure the next one will. Before I unhook I use the rubber chocks on the wheels then unhook. If I had the leveler system do you do it the same way - even if it lifts those tires off the ground? I guess my question is I am wondering if the tires come off the ground and you bring it back down to hook back up I dont want it rolling away LOL.

How do you guys do it if the wheels are off the ground and are getting ready to hook back up?

2010 F350 CC Lariat 4x4 Short Bed
2011 Crusader 298BDS 5th Wheel
Reese 16K

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
ACZL wrote:
If the either the jacks or the frame cannot support either, then there is a BIG problem. Do believe the jacks are rated for several thousand pound capacity each.

I don't to believe that my frame was designed to account for being supported at the edge or end of the beam where the jack is mounted.
I don't believe my beam was designed to carry the weight only being supported at the far ends. The span is too far in my mind.
19'Duramax w/hips, 2022 Alliance Paradigm 390MP >BD3,r,22" Blackstone
r,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,Prog.50A surge ,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan, Sailun S637

ACZL
Explorer
Explorer
If the either the jacks or the frame cannot support either, then there is a BIG problem. Do believe the jacks are rated for several thousand pound capacity each.
2017 F350 DRW XLT, CC, 4x4, 6.7
2018 Big Country 3560 SS
"The best part of RVing and Snowmobiling is spending time with family and friends"
"Catin' in the Winter"

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
I avoid having wheels off the ground. I don't believe the jack is designed to support all the weight nor due I believe the frame is designed to be supported at the ends.
If my wheels raise off the ground I place blocks under them to transfer the weight to the ground.
19'Duramax w/hips, 2022 Alliance Paradigm 390MP >BD3,r,22" Blackstone
r,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,Prog.50A surge ,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan, Sailun S637