Best Hitch

Cptnvideo wrote:
Do you mean chocked?
I don't think a piece of chalk would help. :D

Maybe a BIG pc like these BIG rolls of TP.

PButler96 wrote:
Now that that's settled. Could someone please tell me if I can tow a 36'Keystone TT with a 1929 Duesenberg?

Afraid not on the 1929 model Duesenberg, unless it is a late model manufacturer date. It will need the dual spare option as well.

Ken

Do you mean chocked?
I don't think a piece of chalk would help. :D

Cptnvideo wrote:
Yes, we do a trailer brake test. Our leveling system doesn't provide for a means to have the landing gear jacks a couple inches off the ground so a pull test would have to either be done with one jack grounded or one jack a couple inches above ground or both jacks stowed. I guess I could drag the landing gear jacks with a pull test. But I would rather not since the visual check is such a good indication.

If you have your trailer properly chalked you will not drag the landing gear jacks with a pull test.

Now that that's settled. Could someone please tell me if I can tow a 36'Keystone TT with a 1929 Duesenberg?

Yes, we do a trailer brake test. Our leveling system doesn't provide for a means to have the landing gear jacks a couple inches off the ground so a pull test would have to either be done with one jack grounded or one jack a couple inches above ground or both jacks stowed. I guess I could drag the landing gear jacks with a pull test. But I would rather not since the visual check is such a good indication.

Cptnvideo wrote:
We're not new to RVs but fairly new to 5th wheel RVs. A forum member recommended the Hensley BD-5 hitch to us and after doing some research, we bought one. And we are very happy with it. Very comfortable ride.
I guess I don't understand what all the fuss is about "pull tests". But it might be because I only know about the above mentioned hitch.
When hitching up, we visually look to see if the jaws are closed on the king pin and check to see if we can see that the bottom flange of the king pin is below the jaws. We then check to see if the locking arm is in the 8 o'clock position (which locks the jaws around the kng pin). If all that is correct, I simply don't see a reason for the pull test. Am I missing something?

Belt & suspenders approach. In theory either will work but if you do both, the rare failure modes for either tend to be canceled out. Just takes a minute to do.

Also, do you do a brake test when pulling out of a site? I know it's not quite the same as chocking the wheels but confirms that the trailer brakes are functioning. Even with a bumper pull, I always hit the manual switch for the trailer brakes when pulling out of a site to makes sure it brings me to a quick stop.

MFL wrote:
cummins2014 said: "Jerry ,not sure I want to answer that"

Thanks for the honest reply, and a good description of how you hookup! I have seen the Andersens already hooked/unhooked, but never watched the actual process. I can understand now, how a newer Andersen owner could drop on his bed, but a get out and look should solve that.

I know you know, that I was not baiting a trap, to cause any retaliation. We are mostly all friends, so all is good! :)

Jerry

No worries . I gave you a scenario how an Andersen owner COULD sit his fifth wheel on the bedrails of his truck, but I can't imagine someone going that far ,at some point standing right there lowering the fifth wheel you are watching as the adapter ,and ball come together same as a bumper pull. IMO there is no way you could drop one on the bed . The whole thing with the Andersen is you have to be lined up with the ball ,and adapter. Big reason Andersen came out later on with that line up cone that attaches to the adapter . When I hook up if I am off more than an inch or so it won't go down on the ball, if I had that cone its a bit more forgiving . Like backing into a conventional hitch you have the V shaped opening , so within reason you can be of a bit side to side .

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Cptnvideo wrote:
It is my understanding that it is NOT needed IF you have certain hitches AND if a visual check is done.

It is the decision of the hitch owner to decide to use his God given mind to decide for him self if they should or should not do a pull test.

That my friends is my stance on doing a pull test!!!

I think that is a whole lot better than coming out with its not needed . IMO that's any hitch.

MFL wrote:
cummins2014 said: "Jerry ,not sure I want to answer that"

Thanks for the honest reply, and a good description of how you hookup! I have seen the Andersens already hooked/unhooked, but never watched the actual process. I can understand now, how a newer Andersen owner could drop on his bed, but a get out and look should solve that.

I know you know, that I was not baiting a trap, to cause any retaliation. We are mostly all friends, so all is good! :)

Jerry

MOSTLY.....