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Chucking?

Blanco1
Explorer
Explorer
As I research more & more I keep learning & the latest thing is chucking?
What the cheapest way to prevent it?
1997 Dodge 4x4, 5 spd manual trans & HotRod 5.9 cummins.
With '85 Lance.
125 REPLIES 125

Sabretooth007
Explorer
Explorer
For what its worth in my opinion, the problem is created by poor manufacturing, the 5th Wheel axels are in the center of the trailer, which causes an easy up down movement. In retrospect a semi trailer, Horse trailer and the like have their axels at the rear which causes less up and down movement. Their is also the question of how the trailer is loaded and its weight plus levelness with the tow vehicle. A trailer which is high at the front (not level) affects the center of gravity and in turn having a poor center of gravity causes driving and stability problems. Also fresh water tanks don't have baffles so any movement of the trailer will cause the water to move in all directons (same with black and grey tanks)

One of the easiest ways to correct the problem is level the trailer to the truck, and slow down, 55 mph is a good speed as noted driving CA..
And if you don't want to slow down then don't complain..

mapguy
Explorer
Explorer
Best method to minimize "chucking" is to make sure your trailer is frame level when towing, weight is properly distributed, and the trailer suspension is fully functional with some type of energy dampening system (shocks, air bags, cushioned equalizers).

Many, many trailers have no suspension energy dampening systems(cheap OEM builders)-these trailers will have a propensity to chuck and have other poor handling traits because a harmonic cycle gets started and doesn't stop. These harmonic cycles are what you are feeling as chucking.

justme
Explorer
Explorer
IBcarguy wrote:
I agree that masking the symptoms with a air or rubber pinbox is not correcting the problem. However, if I were to have tried every remedy suggested out there, it would have cost THOUSAND$+ and I still wouldn't be too sure what the "remedy" was. It may be a combination of things that cause this, not just one thing. Anyway, for me the $475 MORryde pinbox made enough difference in the ride characteristics that I can now tow without jerking my guts out and that's all I wanted in the first place. I'm sure it still chucks but I just don't notice it anymore.


That makes a lot of sense ๐Ÿ™‚ BTY there is no cure for Chucking....

IBcarguy
Explorer
Explorer
I agree that masking the symptoms with a air or rubber pinbox is not correcting the problem. However, if I were to have tried every remedy suggested out there, it would have cost THOUSAND$+ and I still wouldn't be too sure what the "remedy" was. It may be a combination of things that cause this, not just one thing. Anyway, for me the $475 MORryde pinbox made enough difference in the ride characteristics that I can now tow without jerking my guts out and that's all I wanted in the first place. I'm sure it still chucks but I just don't notice it anymore.

ken_burke
Explorer
Explorer
Denny & Jami wrote:
To the OP if you want to get ahead of the problem when you buy your 5th wheel get it with shocks and Mor/Ryde RE equalizer from the dealer. If the trailer doesn't have something like that make it part of the deal.

Denny


No. I do not agree with masking the problem. However, I do agree with others in that it is very important to find the real cause for the chucking. There is a problem somewhere, and you should find it. If you install an air hitch or TrailAir hitch. You may be masking the problem, but not solving the problem.
As I said on a previous post I had a real problem with chucking on my 5th wheel, and found out (after extensive searching) that the hitch (Reese 20K) was a little loose. Not that you could find it, but it was there. Reese put on a new hitch and my problem was solved. THEN I put on a better pin on the 5th wheel to really make the ride smooth (TrailAir).
You may have a hitch problem
2011 Ford F-350 6.7 diesel, Crew Cab, LB, SRW, 4X4, White
Cedar Creek 34SB, 37 feet 5th wheel, Reese 20K Hitch
"So many questions, so little time."

justme
Explorer
Explorer
So tell me how everyone's pet theory relates to this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDDQ4oMGeV4

This video is an extreme example, but some road surfaces and expansion joints do the same thing...

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Wild Card wrote:
Reddog1 wrote:
Wild Card wrote:
MorRide/TrailAir. Another Theory. It doesnt fix the problem...it masks the problem.

Same with Sway control. Masking the problem.

These are facts...not theory.
That is a bit confusing. A solution mask a problem, but does not fix the problem? I am missing something here. If I have a truck that sways excessively and I install an anti-sway bar, am I masking the problem or fixing it, based on your post?


You dont see contractors pulling equipment trailers with tractors and skid steer using wd or sway control do ya? Why they have the right axel placement and tongue weight. Same with enclosed cargo trailers. I have pulled many my self...never a worry with sway.

RVs have axels more centered this allows much easier yaw and pitching.

So why does your 28ft travel trailer need sway control and a 28ft cargo trailer does not? Design. Fix the problem of why it sways...dont rely on a devixe to control it.

Air hitches do not fix the chucking in a 5th wheel...they isolate it from the truck. The trailer is still doing the inherited problem...you havnt fixed the problem.


Wild Card is right on the money, all an air hitch does is mask the issue. I have seem several post that they put on an air hitch or MorRyde and still could feel chucking. That is because they didnโ€™t address the root cause in the first place.
Correct pin weight 20%+
5er level
Good suspension and shocks, if the 5er is riding smooth you should not feel it in the TV.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

Wild_Card
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:
Wild Card wrote:
MorRide/TrailAir. Another Theory. It doesnt fix the problem...it masks the problem.

Same with Sway control. Masking the problem.

These are facts...not theory.
That is a bit confusing. A solution mask a problem, but does not fix the problem? I am missing something here. If I have a truck that sways excessively and I install an anti-sway bar, am I masking the problem or fixing it, based on your post?


You dont see contractors pulling equipment trailers with tractors and skid steer using wd or sway control do ya? Why they have the right axel placement and tongue weight. Same with enclosed cargo trailers. I have pulled many my self...never a worry with sway.

RVs have axels more centered this allows much easier yaw and pitching.

So why does your 28ft travel trailer need sway control and a 28ft cargo trailer does not? Design. Fix the problem of why it sways...dont rely on a devixe to control it.

Air hitches do not fix the chucking in a 5th wheel...they isolate it from the truck. The trailer is still doing the inherited problem...you havnt fixed the problem.
2015 Ram 3500 Dually
Sundowner 2286GM Pro-Grade Toyhauler

goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
My advice is if you don't want chucking or porpusing then find out which people that have no chucking or porpusing are towing what and with. It seems that some have it and some don't. Much easier than buying all kinds of gimmicks to cure or reduce it.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Gee Barney, you say you are not an engineer nor do you presently tow a 5th wheel, I thought I saw you at a Holiday Inn. I thought most folks that posted on RV.NET were experts. :B I am sure an expert will say you are incorrect.

I believe there is a cause for chucking, probably maybe several contributing factors. If they can be identified, then those factors might be eliminated. Some of them could be at a major cost. First thing is to identify the potential causes.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Bigg_Al
Explorer
Explorer
The biggest contributor to chucking is towing with the 5th wheel nose high. Doing so transfers more weight to the trailer axles and allows more pitching up and down motion at the hitch. If you have room to drop the front a couple of inches, it could eliminate or reduce the chucking.
Tow Vehicle:
2017 Ram 3500 4x4 DRW Laramie Crew Cab
6.7 Cummins Diesel

Race Car:
Pro Mod 1969 Chevelle
Jerry Bickel Chassis
525ci BAE Hemi Twin Turbocharged
3 Speed Lenco Transmission
Best E.T. 5.62 seconds at 265 mph


Take me to your Golf Course!!

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Reddog1 wrote:
BarneyS wrote:
... The 5th wheel hitch is located some distance above the rear axle so there is a lever moment that allows the chucking to take place. ...
This suggest to me, the greater the distance from the pin connection to the center of the truck axle, the more likely chucking will take place. It this true?

Wayne

Wayne,
I am not an engineer nor do I presently tow a 5th wheel but I believe that to be true - at least until someone with better credentials than I have comes along to refute it. :W I think the greater the distance would also change the frequency of the oscillation and therefore would change the road surface necessary to start it. I think there are also many factors that come into play to induce chucking.

I was just making a comparison between travel trailers and 5th wheel trailers in that post in response to a earlier post. I was not trying to make myself out as a 5th wheel expert.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Wild Card wrote:
MorRide/TrailAir. Another Theory. It doesnt fix the problem...it masks the problem.

Same with Sway control. Masking the problem.

These are facts...not theory.
That is a bit confusing. A solution mask a problem, but does not fix the problem? I am missing something here. If I have a truck that sways excessively and I install an anti-sway bar, am I masking the problem or fixing it, based on your post?


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
BarneyS wrote:
... The 5th wheel hitch is located some distance above the rear axle so there is a lever moment that allows the chucking to take place. ...
This suggest to me, the greater the distance from the pin connection to the center of the truck axle, the more likely chucking will take place. It this true?

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Wild_Card
Explorer
Explorer
justme wrote:
well. it looks like everyone has a theory about trailer towing. Remember they are simply theory... ๐Ÿ™‚ However, if you own a 5th wheel a MorRide pin or TrailAir pin box are good and if you own a tow trailer a sway bar are good to have. As well a sway control in the TV..


MorRide/TrailAir. Another Theory. It doesnt fix the problem...it masks the problem.

Same with Sway control. Masking the problem.

These are facts...not theory.
2015 Ram 3500 Dually
Sundowner 2286GM Pro-Grade Toyhauler