Disc brakes with Ford brake controller

[NuttyTexans]

Had disc brakes installed on my37 5er in Elkhart, IN. TV is 2012 F350 dually. I decided to do this due to what I felt was poor braking on the 5er. I had experienced the same poor braking with a prior F250.The brake controller was and is now set at 10. Disc brakes are doing the same. System has been bled 4 times, pump is getting proper voltage and performing as it should. Installer is going out of their way to support me in my efforts to fix this problem but they are in Elkhart and I am in Tx. Finger is now being pointed at the built in brake controller in the truck but Ford says there shouldn't be any problems there and there is no history of any problems.
Did get one tire to lock up using slider bar but only once. Rest of the time when I slid the bar little braking can be felt. Note-controller is set at hyd over elec. Any suggestion, etc. would be appreciated.

[fpresto]

If, as you said, the pump is getting the proper voltage then the controller is doing it's job and the problem must be elsewhere. Early Ford controllers had a problem in that a slow speed, 15 MPH or less, the controller did not send enough power to activate the pump. Your 2012 should not have that problem.

[golf_bears]

Power everything up, open up one of the break lines, step on the break pedal and see if break fluid squirts out of the break line. If so, you have breaks unless the calipers are stuck. This would be highly unlikely on all the calipers.

[Fulltimer50]

I received an estimate from a company saying that with the Titan actuator, the Ford controller needs an extra module for the brakes to work properly. My searching tells me that it all depends on the actuator. I had a Moryde install with a Carlisle controller that work great.

[C_Schomer]

It doesn't sound like a controller or wiring problem if the actuator is getting full voltage. I wonder how they can say the actuator is working right if the trailer won't stop properly. They must be missing something. I just installed 8k Kodiaks and Carlisle actuator and it was hard to bleed. The reservoir is tiny and it must be kept topped of or it will suck air. Is yours a Carlisle and did they use the higher pressure actuator? They make different psi's. Craig

[SuperDutyMan]

If you search the forum,you will find other discusions about the Ford integrated controller,you will most never lock the trailer brakes up,it won't allow it,you always feel like the brakes don't work well,until you get into a panic stop,and they work great then,took a little getting used to,but they will stop great when really needed,as to your disc brakes,I can't really comment on.

[buc1980]

I don't have any problem with the disk brake and 2011 Ford 350.I have Drexter brake on my trailer.

[bigmichael]

bdb2047 wrote:
If you are using a factory brake controller 2011 and newer you have to change setting from elec. to elec/hyd. This is in the message center in dash under settings.

I think that is what he said in his original post.

I would suspect it is something with the brakes and not the controller as our hydraulics had no problem with either of our last ford built in controllers.

[bdb2047]

If you are using a factory brake controller 2011 and newer you have to change setting from elec. to elec/hyd. This is in the message center in dash under settings.

[Atom_Ant]

There was a lot of finger pointing at my brake controller when we picked up our Redwood with disk brakes and they didn't work.

In the end - it was a completely failed Carlisle actuator from the factory. They figured it out by listening to the "tone" made by the actuator when voltage applied and Carlisle tech support on the phone talking to them.

Work great at 6.5, and I set to 7.5 when descending 5%