See as you have lights and can turn it ON but fridge doesn't cool down on electric or propane then it is a 'common' component (one used by both heat sources) and not a item specific to one or the other.
That narrows it down to:
*Ventilation/air flow issues........backside of fridge has something blocking the natural draft from lower vent to upper vent (remove lower access vent cover and look for obstructions-fallen insulation etc)
*Leveling.......if off level the gravity flow of coolant will be interrupted causing cooling issues (and permanent damage)
*Thermistor.....temp sensor located in food section in a clip on far right fin. The thermostat uses the thermistor to control cooling cycles. Bad thermistor no cooling. Take thermistor out of clip and let it hang down into lower area of food compartment. Turn fridge ON----after 8 hrs. freezer should be frozen (0*F or lower) and fins in food compartment should be 2*F or lower. IF not thermistor could be bad IF cooling unit is NOT plugged.
*Cooling Unit......could be plugged/obstruction in perk tube or evap tubing. Plugging is caused by off level operation which causes overheating of sodium chromate which crystallizes and plates out on tubing. This damage is accumulative and permanent.
Or cooling unit has cracked and hydrogen gas has leaked out, ammonia has leaked out and the sodium chromate has leaked ou(it will leave a yellowish residue usually down around burner area)
To test cooling unit (if no leaks)
Disconnect electric heat element leads from control module...plug leads into an good AC outlet and run fridge for 8 hrs. No cooling them cooling unit is plugged......done /dead/no good.
Hopefully it is just something fallen down blocking off the draft or the thermistor is bad.
Is it time for your medication or mine?
2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31
